What have you done to your MS3 today?

[oaklandopen]

Drove the speed around yesterday looking at a possible future motorcycle. Swore to myself that id replace my old gixxer, just not with another crotch-rocket. Been looking at some harley 883's and other medium size bikes (600-900cc)

But today the ms3 popped a couple codes. A small evap leak code and, of course, an egr code. Erased them with my scan tool so we shall see if they pop up again

The evap code was a non-cel producing code because it had shown up before. But the egr code turned the light on right quick

Yet again, a future plan of purchase (ie new bike) gets ruined my another problem with the ms3

 

[Rotus]

Stay away from the 883, those things are so anemic. Have you considered the Yamaha Star bikes? I Had one of the original Road Stars and I loved it. Big , comfy and torquey. My other bike at this time was a 748, so comfy was a big plus. I rented a HD Fat Boy the same weekend I got my Roadie and the Yamaha was the better bike by far. The 883 is just going to be underpowered and cramped.

Have you considered other styles like Standard or streetfighter? Or maybe go the route I went and go with a Supermoto, they are great handling and great fun.

 

[oaklandopen]

^^^^all I know is I need comfort after the gixxer. That and I must consider 2 asses (mine and the wife, she rides as well).

I really like the 883, style and comfort. Also looked at a honda 750 of some kind. Originally I was looking at the suzuki boulevard, but the "clunk" from the drive shaft was off-putting.

It will still be a while anyways

 

[ericrapp]

royal enfield, they are not so good for the wife but the cool factor is through the roof.

 

[oaklandopen]

Don't need so much "cool". Where's a bike thread when you need one?

 

[not yellow]

installed the new hawk pads on the front driver's side then moved to the rear driver's side. can't get the piston to depress in the rear to fit the new pads, won't budge at all. any idea what i'm doing wrong?

 

[Jon MS3]

not sure how ours are set up, but some cars rear pistons thread in, if they won't budge with pressure alone, that might be the case

 

[not yellow]

oh, i like this idea. just went and rotated the piston but it didn't seem to thread in... just spins in place it seems. maybe i'll try searching for a how-to.

edit: yes, the how-to says rotate and press. i'll give it another shot. thanks for getting me on the right track!

 

[STRICK-]

You have to push in real hard and turn it. You can rent the 2 pronged attachment tool for your drill at autozone. It makes the task much easier. I found this out the hard way too when I did mine Good luck

 

[deadairspace]

I got about half way done installing the Corksport SRI and TIP. By half way I mean it's currently sitting apart in the garage because I broke the damn nipple on the boost solenoid trying to remove the hose. Now realizing I should've read a little more on here before attempting this and I could've avoided it.

 

[Jdm_Mica]

^ouch!! that sucks

 

[Rotus]

oh, i like this idea. just went and rotated the piston but it didn't seem to thread in... just spins in place it seems. maybe i'll try searching for a how-to.

edit: yes, the how-to says rotate and press. i'll give it another shot. thanks for getting me on the right track!

This can be done with hand tools, but it's much better when you have the right tools. I've never used the drill based tool.

I've used this one, works well and is about $40. This one pushes as you turn.

You can also try one like this. It should be less than $10 at any auto parts store. This one requires you to push as you turn. Scale of the pic is that those holes are 3/8" for your socket driver.

 

[Rotus]

I got about half way done installing the Corksport SRI and TIP. By half way I mean it's currently sitting apart in the garage because I broke the damn nipple on the boost solenoid trying to remove the hose. Now realizing I should've read a little more on here before attempting this and I could've avoided it.

I feel for you, man. I broke it off the TIP side when I was cleaning my EGR valve. Added another few hours to the job finding a brass male/male nipple and letting the epoxy set. Finally replaced the TIP with a cp-e.

I guess you won't be able to repair the solenoid. I bet you can find it on the internet with a model number. I'm sure it's not a Mazda specific unit.

 

[SKiZ0TT]

Installed new springs (Eibach Prokit) and much better without the 4x4 look! Now I have a bit of noise to get fixed... likely FSB bushing, will replace that first and see...

 

[Rotus]

There are a few posts about the problem with the FSB on lowered cars. The sway bar links need to be replaced with one sized for the drop.

 

[SKiZ0TT]

There are a few posts about the problem with the FSB on lowered cars. The sway bar links need to be replaced with one sized for the drop.

Cool, thanks for the reply! I'll replace the bushings, but the links I wasn't sure needed to be replaced. Any recommendations on links?

 

[Rotus]

Cool, thanks for the reply! I'll replace the bushings, but the links I wasn't sure needed to be replaced. Any recommendations on links?

I still haven't done mine, lol. One of the theads has a formula for calculating optimal length of the new endlinks according to your drop.

There was a group buy a while ago on some nice ones from powergrid. You might try contacting them directly or They might have some up on ebay. These are different from the AWR endlinks in that they have sealed OEM quality banjo joints instead of open heims.

edit: found the ebay link. Looks like they just want the new center to center measurement and they will build it up for you.

click here please

jeez, four times to put that link in...

 

[SKiZ0TT]

(nana) Sweet!

 

[deadairspace]

I feel for you, man. I broke it off the TIP side when I was cleaning my EGR valve. Added another few hours to the job finding a brass male/male nipple and letting the epoxy set. Finally replaced the TIP with a cp-e.

I guess you won't be able to repair the solenoid. I bet you can find it on the internet with a model number. I'm sure it's not a Mazda specific unit.

I ended up just ordering it from the local dealer. With having them ship it from California it's about the same price as it was to order online plus pay for shipping. I guess there are worse things that could've broken, this looks like it's going to be tricky to unbolt though.

 

[not yellow]

replaced a couple of stripped wheel studs and after two days and 3,560 curses installed hawk HP plus pads. thanks for bearing with me fellas...