What have you done to your MS3 today?

Haven't been on for a while since I've been so busy but I figured I'd get on and post an update:

-Ordered some Kumho V710 R comps today 225/40/18 for my new racing wheels. I ran Hoosier A6's in the past and want to compare how the two stack up. Racing season coming soon!!!!!

-Got my wheels back from the powder coater. They came out amazing in gloss black. Pics when they go on the car.

-Got two sets of black lug nuts from McGard. One for my race wheels which had to be the spine drive to fit and the others are regular acorns to match the powder coated wheels.

-Found that the tip on my GHL cat back is RUSTING!!!!! Stainless steel my @$^. This is just great especially after the thing had to be bent and reshaped to fit the car in the first place. GHL is awful. Only bought it because it was insanely cheap. Any suggestions for a better exhaust that won't have these problems and sounds good? Price isn't a huge deal. I want quality first.
 
Stainless steel isn't all created equal. It's usually steel mixed with trace amounts of material such as chromium.

In metallurgy stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is defined as a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5[1] or 11% chromium content by mass.[2] Stainless steel does not stain, corrode, or rust as easily as ordinary steel, but it is not stain-proof.[3] It is also called corrosion-resistant steel or CRES when the alloy type and grade are not detailed, particularly in the aviation industry. There are different grades and surface finishes of stainless steel to suit the environment the alloy must endure. Stainless steel is used where both the properties of steel and resistance to corrosion are required.
Stainless steel differs from carbon steel by the amount of chromium present. Unprotected carbon steel rusts readily when exposed to air and moisture. This iron oxide film (the rust) is active and accelerates corrosion by forming more iron oxide. Stainless steels contain sufficient chromium to form a passive film of chromium oxide, which prevents further surface corrosion and blocks corrosion from spreading into the metal's internal structure.
Passivation only occurs if the mixture of chromium is high enough.
 
I had the same problem with my COBB CBE after 1 week and they are even coated with some sort of clear coat, I even went as far as cleaning them and put Rust inhibitor to prevent further "damage" but because of that coating it didn't help at all, and this winter the baffling inside the tip started to rust also, no wonder why COBB discontinued the shyt.


-Found that the tip on my GHL cat back is RUSTING!!!!! Stainless steel my @$^. This is just great especially after the thing had to be bent and reshaped to fit the car in the first place. GHL is awful. Only bought it because it was insanely cheap. Any suggestions for a better exhaust that won't have these problems and sounds good? Price isn't a huge deal. I want quality first.
 
tried to record a quick 3rd gear pull with my scan tool....bleh. manual states that it takes 20 frames of data, little did i know what the actual refresh rate of a "frame" was. aparently its not quick enough to give the data between about 5200 and redline from when i went WOT then an immediate release

oh, and i don't know what it's reading as fuel pressure. damn numbers just say "1.7" accross the board

ugh. probably shoulda just gone with some laptop software and a dongle. at least i can still pull and erase codes on any obdII
 
off to a buddies house to install my cobb fmic



time to blow the dust off my ap and get this car fast again
 
Pretty soon I gotta get my amp and sub in, my H&R's and Koni's and my Magnaflow. Which arrives... UPS says Thursday. I'm more excited about that. Because I know that'll be the easiest to install.
 
fmic is in, took a helluva long time to install


right side windshield wiper stopped working, and its pouring out

proof that win must be balanced with fail



also threw on a stg2+fmic+sri 93 map to do some logs and make the car a bit safer since it'd be more calibrated to the mods......


held 13.2 AFR @ WOT with 18psi......yea, safer

no KR tho...
 
I think this must be true!

After installing my summer wheels and dragging it through the car wash to get all the dirt off (win)

It dumps (is dumping) somewhere, reportedly, in the the neighborhood of 10-14 inches of snow on it now (epic fail)

Every single person I've spoken with whom lives up here is so ******* sick of snow.
 
I think this must be true!

After installing my summer wheels and dragging it through the car wash to get all the dirt off (win)

It dumps (is dumping) somewhere, reportedly, in the the neighborhood of 10-14 inches of snow on it now (epic fail)

Every single person I've spoken with whom lives up here is so ******* sick of snow.

I feel your pain, I'm counting the days till I put my summer wheels back on. Almost 50 on Saturday and now snow Sunday!
 
fmic is in, took a helluva long time to install


right side windshield wiper stopped working, and its pouring out

proof that win must be balanced with fail



also threw on a stg2+fmic+sri 93 map to do some logs and make the car a bit safer since it'd be more calibrated to the mods......


held 13.2 AFR @ WOT with 18psi......yea, safer

no KR tho...

try tightening the nut on the wiper arm a bit. Mine came loose last year in a bad snow storm and stopped working. the capnuts loosen up nad then the arm slips on the wiper shaft.
 
Did this a few weeks ago. I just felt i needed to be different. Price=free. I work at Midas and used some left over 2".5 inch and a stainless tip.

180477_1792630984878_1512751246_1904572_675460_n.jpg




Let the flaming Begin !..
 
I feel your pain, I'm counting the days till I put my summer wheels back on. Almost 50 on Saturday and now snow Sunday!

I left mine the **** at home today. Rode in with the gf and her Subaru. <Upstate NY fail>

Anyone else get a ******* foot of snow?
 

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