What have you done to your MS3 today?

I'm hoping it won't either. I used the same stuff on my RSB and FSB bushings for the Subaru and they seemed to be OK.

When my Hotchkis RSB started squeaking, they recommended using a non-lithium, silicon-based moly grease to not degrade the urethane bushing. Any old blue marine grease from VatoZone, etc. should work.
 
OK cool. I'll either just use the pouch of goo they provided or hit Discount Auto and get some stuff that won't degrade the bushings.

Just to be safe, having the lithium stuff on the bushings for one day isn't gonna hurt anything is it? Do I just wipe off the lithium grease and then maybe use some dish detergent and warm water to get the bushings clean?
 
You should be fine for a while. It's not like lithium grease is some super-corrosive acid or anything. :) Even though most sway bars nowadays come with grease gun nipples, it gives me more peace of mind to remove the bushings, give them a solid cleaning, re-grease, then re-mount.
 
that looks like un-coated, welded, steel to me. The "bling" is an armor coating that keeps it from rusting and is very resistant to scratching and doesn't degrade the steel's strength. Nickle-plating and (maybe?) galvanizing can weaken the part.

The bling looks like yellow trivalent chromate to me. Very common in the automotive industry, especially on things like nuts and bolts.
 
I added a wrecked P5 to the stable to part out..

19577_1316459960900_1512751246_846045_7203811_n.jpg
 
received my H&R coilovers today. unfortunately they just look like a glorified version of a sleeve type coilover. hoping they fit and perform better than that!

also don't come with instructions of any kind... wish me luck.
 
installing my coilovers and have already hit an impasse! anyone know how to remove the bottom of the front strut from it's perch? i can't get it to budge an inch...
 
installing my coilovers and have already hit an impasse! anyone know how to remove the bottom of the front strut from it's perch? i can't get it to budge an inch...

without a pneumatic hammer it will be a pain, but... using a pry bar, 5lb hammer and some pb blaster will probably get you through it. Do not loosen the hardware on the strut tower until last. Make sure you are on jack stands, remove your knuckle bolt behind the strut, and find a safe place to hit/pry the top of the knuckle to start working the knuckle away from the strut. Be cautious because each knuckle is about $160.00 to replace if you kong them! Getting the new ones in will be tricky too without pneumatic tools. You will need to set your jack under the lower control arm and slowly compress your knuckle and strut back together. Be careful to not jack the car off of the stand by the suspension. With the pressure on the lower arm, a few smacks to the knuckle below the strut will help work it back in. Good luck!
 
installing my coilovers and have already hit an impasse! anyone know how to remove the bottom of the front strut from it's perch? i can't get it to budge an inch...


Here's the method I used to use with my Focuses (which have a nearly identical design):

1. Loosen (but do not remove) the upper strut mount bolts.

2. Remove the bolt that tightens the knuckle around the bottom of the strut.

3. Making sure the car is secure (and not likely to fall off of your jackstands), use your foot to kick the hub downward until the knuckle comes off the strut.

Alternatively, some people have used the scissor jack to spread things apart, by placing it between the bottom spring perch and the knuckle and jacking it up.
 
Keepin' it Blose!

Ok, let the laughter ensue, but today I installed an old Blose Acoustimass sub in my spare tire well. Believe it or not, it is super light, handles 200/channel, fits, and sounds great! Now it doesn't perform like my Hifonics Olympus 15" but it weighs about 100lbs less! It hides away completely and honestly reproduces respectable bass. I still have to hide the wires and vacuum but you get the point :)
 

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Installed some white LEDs in the interior map lights and license plate lights.
 
went to IAG and got my pre-dyno inspection done. Everything checked out fine and im scheduled for tuning on the 21st. barely made it home before it started snowing. now we are expected to get 2 FRICKEN FEET so thatll be fun to dig my car out of! lucky bastards with garages!
 
Here's the method I used to use with my Focuses (which have a nearly identical design):

1. Loosen (but do not remove) the upper strut mount bolts.

2. Remove the bolt that tightens the knuckle around the bottom of the strut.

3. Making sure the car is secure (and not likely to fall off of your jackstands), use your foot to kick the hub downward until the knuckle comes off the strut.

Alternatively, some people have used the scissor jack to spread things apart, by placing it between the bottom spring perch and the knuckle and jacking it up.

thanks for the tips guys! got the fronts installed today, didn't have time for the rears. scissor jack worked like a charm to remove the strut. seemed a bit sketchy but i still have all my fingers. only drove it around the block once to make sure it was all functioning. got two nice clunks from each side, hoping that's just the springs settling into place....
 
Ok, let the laughter ensue, but today I installed an old Blose Acoustimass sub in my spare tire well. Believe it or not, it is super light, handles 200/channel, fits, and sounds great! Now it doesn't perform like my Hifonics Olympus 15" but it weighs about 100lbs less! It hides away completely and honestly reproduces respectable bass. I still have to hide the wires and vacuum but you get the point :)

I like it! Stealth bass FTW.
 
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