What have you done to your Mazda6 today?

[tunersteve]

I love the BCM, but I still want a completely unique one. I'd like to paint it midnight blue...I dunno...

This winter has made a lot of scratches show up on my girl, and I'm really disliking it.

No offense man, but that's an expensive and probably unnecessary expense. I'd bet you could find a good detailer that specializes in paint correction and have your BCM back to showroom shine in a half day's work. If you can, post some pictures up, specifically of the damage.

 

[mysleeper6]

Hmm, I checked out the StopTech drilled (front and rear) rotor set for $369 which actually doesn't seem too bad. I believe when I brought my car into Mazda to look at my rotors they instantly said I needed new ones, and offered me new OEM rear rotors only, for $200-$300 (I can't remember exactly). I know "they" say you don't need drilled and/or slotted rotors if it's a daily driver but I really want to upgrade to better performing breaks, i.e, I don't want OEM stock ones, lol. Also, I don't want to change only the rear rotors, I might aswell get new front ones and new pads... I can see the rust coming.

Checked out that race roots site for the "Hawk Brake Pads Performance Ceramic", $85 for front and $70 for rear. Total I'm looking at around $524... seems like a lot but I'd be replacing a lot... Now I have to look into how well they last and perform.

Of course it's always a matter of personal choice, but I think there's a thread on here that basically says drilled will crack and offer no performance improvement over slotted for our cars.

 

[tunersteve]

I've used both on previous cars, and I actually prefer the slotted ones, but you have to make sure to use the right pads with them. If you go with a softer pad, plan on changing them frequently. Otherwise, Stoptech slotted + Hawk Ceramic would be a nice combo.

 

[solidtrance]

Of course it's always a matter of personal choice, but I think there's a thread on here that basically says drilled will crack and offer no performance improvement over slotted for our cars.

Agree. Slotted is the way to go for looks. Neither will help performance. What will actually help with the performance is either two piece (lighter, less rotational mass is definitely a good thing) or one of the aftermarket rotors that have "curved" vanes in between the inner and outer rotor (this will improve cooling).

Switching to ceramic pads seems counterproductive though. The main improvement they will offer is that they will produce much less brake dust than the stock pads. The will not improve the performance of the brakes very much in any other way.

Check out his post for lots of good info (I posted it, but I got it from a member on another site who is much smarter about this stuff than I am)

Brake system FAQ/INFO Clicky

My unsolicited advice would be to get a good set of pads that offer more bite than stock, some high quality brake fluid (do a full flush) and finally have the rotors turned (might not be needed). You can add some SS brake lines if you want.

 

[tunersteve]

Agree. Slotted is the way to go for looks. Neither will help performance. What will actually help with the performance is either two piece (lighter, less rotational mass is definitely a good thing) or one of the aftermarket rotors that have "curved" vanes in between the inner and outer rotor (this will improve cooling).

Switching to ceramic pads seems counterproductive though. The main improvement they will offer is that they will produce much less brake dust than the stock pads. The will not improve the performance of the brakes very much in any other way.

Check out his post for lots of good info (I posted it, but I got it from a member on another site who is much smarter about this stuff than I am)

Brake system FAQ/INFO Clicky

My unsolicited advice would be to get a good set of pads that offer more bite than stock, some high quality brake fluid (do a full flush) and finally have the rotors turned (might not be needed). You can add some SS brake lines if you want.

I have to partially disagree with your statement that neither will help performance. I think the bigger point here is that if improperly matched to a set of pads, they will hurt performance. If you plan on going with a slotted rotor (I would definitely stay away from drilled, unless their cast with the holes in them) and a compatible pad, then the slots will not only reduce buildup and allow gas to not be trapped between the pad and rotor, but also 'clean' dirt/grime/dust/water off of the mating surfaces, allowing in better bite between the components. The trade-off, however, is decrease pad life.

If you're going to just drive the car on the street, then stock rotors should be enough. If you're going to do some light track duty, then I'd suggest looking at different pads and/or rotors.

I do agree though that a full fluid flush with better fluid (DOT4 or better compound, NO DOT5) would be a good move too. SS brake lines help improve pedal feel, because they don't 'give' like the OEM lines, but make sure the ones you buy are DOT compliant, meaning that they pass the reliability standards that the OEM lines have to.

 

[mglavina]

Looks like slotted would be the way to go... again I was just looking at options, thanks for everyones input though. I'll check out that link now.

 

[solidtrance]

I think the bigger point here is that if improperly matched to a set of pads, they will hurt performance. If you plan on going with a slotted rotor (I would definitely stay away from drilled, unless their cast with the holes in them) and a compatible pad, then the slots will not only reduce buildup and allow gas to not be trapped between the pad and rotor, but also 'clean' dirt/grime/dust/water off of the mating surfaces, allowing in better bite between the components. The trade-off, however, is decrease pad life.

If you're going to just drive the car on the street, then stock rotors should be enough. If you're going to do some light track duty, then I'd suggest looking at different pads and/or rotors.

I do agree though that a full fluid flush with better fluid (DOT4 or better compound, NO DOT5) would be a good move too. SS brake lines help improve pedal feel, because they don't 'give' like the OEM lines, but make sure the ones you buy are DOT compliant, meaning that they pass the reliability standards that the OEM lines have to.

All good points. I was just saying that the slotted and/or drilled rotors are mostly for looks, and as you rightly pointed they are more likely to hurt perofrmance than improve it. Spend the extra money you save by just getting OEM rotors and invest it in the rest of the system (better pads, enough good fluid to do a full flush and maybe SS lines) and you will get more/any performance gain. Better yet, either don't get new rotors (most of us shouldn't need them untill the car has many more miles on it anyway) or buy a set of lightly used OEM rotors from someone who already made the switch.

 

[i8urgti]

Friday I installed WLEDx4 bulbs in the front and rear interior domes, the courtesy door lights, rear license plate and the driving lamps.

Sunday the stock catback came off, and CPE Single exit went in, resonator with no mufflers! (Purchased from a fellow member).

Can't get pics of led's because I lost my camera, ill grab some pics of the CBE from my phone.

 

[Danems6]

seamfoamed
oil change
inspect spark plugs` condition and gap
re-install CAI, BPV, and test pipe

 

[jaymangrum]

Working in the powersports industry and dealing with race bikes (factory and otherwise) on a daily basis, i completely agree that no matter the application SS lines are a wise investment in most cases. If not factory installed, they should be one of the first upgrades.
Correct on the no DOT5 silicone based fluid. The "basic" dif between dot 3 and 4 are their boiling points, which is only seen in most strenous conditions, i.e. autocross,drift,offroad, endurance, trials etc etc.
As far as ceramic pads, there are more benefits to a ceramic pad than low dust, i.e. they do take lil longer to heat up, thus when they do, they tend to bite harder and without fatal brake fade. However, proper matching of pads and rotors can vary brand to brand, rotor vendors usually will suggest who's pads work best with their rotors to the application and event.
So if crossdrilled or slotted are merely for looks, then why do factory race bikes, newer gen sports cars and factory super cars come stock with one of the two or both?
Most factory race machines that i have worked with come with two peice rotors (Ti center rings typical or other alloy), crossdrilled and/or slotted, matched with a 4-8 piston calipers with a range of pads which are based upon application of the machine.
I dare say if ppl would take the time to call R&D guys at brembo, baer, stoptech, EBC, hawk or other well known vendors, they would fill you in
on brake tech vs all this speculation and misinformation.

 

[tunersteve]

DOT3 and DOT4 are the same base, different boiling points. You can technically mix them, but a full flush with an upgrade to DOT4 would be the best suggestion, and a good time to do that is with the SS line upgrade. DOT5 is silicone based and will eat your brake lines unless specified for it (which I believe all OEM cars are NOT).

Yes, there are plenty of cars that come with drilled and/or slotted rotors. Again, it goes back to design and properly matching the pads with the rotors to compliment each other.

 

[jaymangrum]

I was agreeing with you above steve, i was speaking to the others in terms of what is speculation vs fact.

Your right you can mix them, we have and do on occ at the shop.
As far as the Dot 5 fluid, it actually is starting to get more popular in oem
applications, especially the exotics, factory style race replicas and vehicles with 65k+ price tags or factory high hp ratings due to its ability to handle prolonged high heat.
If a system is designed for dot 3 or 4 and dot 5 is introduced over time it will eat the lines i agree but (will not eat SS lines, most SS are rated for all fluids), before it eats the lines though, it will eat through seals in the master cyl, diaphams and spring/plunger seals, from what we have seen a couple customers do when not properly informed. It kills me, customers putting dot 5 in a master cyl or res, when stated on the caps/lids its states dot 3 or 4. lol

 

[dave_PEI]

put a pile of money down on my winter tires that should be here by the end of the week, and lined up a deal on some rims ro put them on(2thumbs)

 

[tunersteve]

I was agreeing with you above steve, i was speaking to the others in terms of what is speculation vs fact.

Your right you can mix them, we have and do on occ at the shop.
As far as the Dot 5 fluid, it actually is starting to get more popular in oem
applications, especially the exotics, factory style race replicas and vehicles with 65k+ price tags or factory high hp ratings due to its ability to handle prolonged high heat.
If a system is designed for dot 3 or 4 and dot 5 is introduced over time it will eat the lines i agree but (will not eat SS lines, most SS are rated for all fluids), before it eats the lines though, it will eat through seals in the master cyl, diaphams and spring/plunger seals, from what we have seen a couple customers do when not properly informed. It kills me, customers putting dot 5 in a master cyl or res, when stated on the caps/lids its states dot 3 or 4. lol

Sorry, I wasn't trying to overstep you, just elaborate on my earlier post. You actually provided more info than I had regarding DOT5 fluid, which was good.

 

[mglavina]

Dear god. "I was thinking of looking at new rotors..."

And look what gets started lmao.

 

[tunersteve]

Dear god. "I was thinking of looking at new rotors..."

And look what gets started lmao.

Yeah, way to go man! LOL.

Nah, it's something that I've been looking at too. It still depends on what I decide to do with my car in the next 3-6 months.

 

[mglavina]

One thing for sure I'm like on the edge of just ordering, is going for your light set up steve. The 6K HID's with matching fogs look like sex! Unreal man...

 

[tunersteve]

One thing for sure I'm like on the edge of just ordering, is going for your light set up steve. The 6K HID's with matching fogs look like sex! Unreal man...

Do it up! I love mine and I'm glad I did it. Night visibility is much better now.

 

[solidtrance]

I dare say if ppl would take the time to call R&D guys at brembo, baer, stoptech, EBC, hawk or other well known vendors, they would fill you in
on brake tech vs all this speculation and misinformation.

Care to elaborate. Always looking for better information (I am being sincere not sarcastic). I understand that high end brakes are two peice, slotted and drilled giving them the best of all worlds. They are lighter and cool faster than conventional solid one peice units, and I thought for a long time that stock style slotted and drilled rotors would be better than OEM. Recently I learned that a number of people who's opinion I trust (Eric Meyer comes to mind) that the comercially available slotted and drilled stock replacement rotors are not worth the expense and in some cases more prone to failure. I was led to believe that the two piece design (with curved vanes) promoted cooling drastically and the slotted drilled feature served to further enhance this cooling effect. Basically the holes and slotts were not worth the reduced strength unless there was added airflow inside the rotor and the structure of the rotor needs to be designed differently to allow for the holes and slotts. Had more to say, but its getting late. Gotta go now.

PS. I think speculation and misinformation is a bit harsh. I don't think anyone is trying to cause harm here.

 

[Qwik6]

Creating a winter map for the car now. Starting to hit fuel cut. 20.4psi doesn't work well in sub freezing temperatures...