What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

Prior to a multi-state 2500 mile holiday road trip, I got a set of seat heaters for the two front seats and installed them. Sooo nice, and one thing I really miss from my previous DD. Taking the seats apart and getting the hog rings back in place was not the most fun (and I found that the driver's side seatback seemed to be missing most of the rings already somehow?), but the end result was definitely worth it. Also added some cargo loops to the top rear of the cargo area so that I can better secure things to the sides and roof of the cargo area - these came in quite handy on the trip to make room for the three dogs behind the middle row of seats while holding luggage and other stuff for 2 adults & 2 kids to the sides and roof (while still being able to see out the rear window!).

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Anybody know of a recessed buckle for the front seats??? My wife has told me that the stock buckle keeps digging into her dump truck of a booty.
 
Came across a video of a fella removing the intake resonator from his Mazda 3 2.0. Is this a common mod to do??
 
You'll get zero power gain from removing the intake resonator. You will get increased intake noise, so if that your thing, go for it.
 
So I decided to go against removing the intake resonator. I would like some brighter bulbs for my high and low beams. I did but a pair of Zevo LED H11 for my low beams. But they are quite dim. I even restored my headlights finish and they’re still pretty dim. Any suggestions for a brighter bulb???
 
You want some standardhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) bulbs to replace your H11's. The H9's are super cheap and have AMAZING output.

For your high beams, grab some https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)'s to replace your 9005's. Again, super cheap, but amazing output.

You will have to slightly modify the base of the bulbs, but all that entails is taking a pair of wire dykes and trimming the tab just a little bit. There's instructions on the web on how to modify the tabs, or you can just look at your present bulbs and make the tabs match. It takes all of two seconds.
 
So I decided to go against removing the intake resonator. I would like some brighter bulbs for my high and low beams. I did but a pair of Zevo LED H11 for my low beams. But they are quite dim. I even restored my headlights finish and they’re still pretty dim. Any suggestions for a brighter bulb???
This thread is too good to get lost in history.

H9 bulb mod is a cheapest/cost effective way to go. Can get higher output bulb at trade-off for life, can’t have both. Aftermarket drop in Morimoto HIDs (thanks to OEM projector housing) are the best/brightest option (2nd to OEM HID if you salvage it for cheap+leveling switch). LEDs have evolved since the post above but you won’t know how well they work unless you get review/feedback. Remember the golden rule, YGWYPF
 
This thread is too good to get lost in history.

H9 bulb mod is a cheapest/cost effective way to go. Can get higher output bulb at trade-off for life, can’t have both. Aftermarket drop in Morimoto HIDs (thanks to OEM projector housing) are the best/brightest option (2nd to OEM HID if you salvage it for cheap+leveling switch). LEDs have evolved since the post above but you won’t know how well they work unless you get review/feedback. Remember the golden rule, YGWYPF

100%. You could drop the money into a retrofit and have amazing OEM quality lighting. You won’t get that from a set of swappable lamps.

I’m not against drop in lamps, sometimes they can do just fine. On my old 3 I did some projector modifications to the OEM halogen projector, and used a HID kit. Made for substantially better lighting, but not on par with the OEM HID projectors, let alone really good OEM projectors from things lIke the TSX. I put a set of Morimoto LEDs in my wife’s prius, but that was primarily because for some reason she was blowing a lamp every couple of weeks. Side effect was a slightly more consistent beam pattern, but they didn’t make things “brighter”.
 
So I’m going to try the H9 Conversion. Just seems the easiest right now. I’m kicking myself in the butt though because a few months back I forked over 100 bucks at autozone for LED’s. They wouldn’t be so bad if they had better spray.
 
Just remembered, does anyone have a idea why my gas gauge would read 200 miles+ when the gauge reaches the halfway mark. But then I’ll only get 100 miles the last half of the tank?

I’ve drove the 2013 M5 another 100 miles after the empty light came on with a gas can in the back. It still didn’t run out of gas.

Not a huge issue, just a little annoying.
 
Just remembered, does anyone have a idea why my gas gauge would read 200 miles+ when the gauge reaches the halfway mark. But then I’ll only get 100 miles the last half of the tank?

I’ve drove the 2013 M5 another 100 miles after the empty light came on with a gas can in the back. It still didn’t run out of gas.

Not a huge issue, just a little annoying.
The fuel gauge is not linear, so I wouldn't use it for calculating distances. It's most useful just as a fuel reserve reference.
 
My cheap fix to the poor boot lighting in my M5. The Lluxpro puck light. Super bright for its size, 10hr battery life, replaceable battery, and IPX6 waterproof. About $20 at Lowes for a 5 pack.
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Oh, for those who use canister oil filters, I recommend the Ford Motocraft oil filters (USA made) for the Focus available at Walmart for <$4. Yes, it fits the Mz5 perfectly. I suspect this is the same OEM Mazda filter. Aftermarket filters are the same for both cars. I guess b/c it has a Ford logo on it, it is only meant for Ford.
This is a SOLID tip, the Motocraft 400 is also almost 1" taller, and is the same price as the 910 which is currently $10 at Oreilly's. Not as cheap as the generic Motocraft, which is now $7. Stupid inflation. But hey, at least it's still a ridiculously easy oil change!
 
This is a SOLID tip, the Motocraft 400 is also almost 1" taller, and is the same price as the 910 which is currently $10 at Oreilly's. Not as cheap as the generic Motocraft, which is now $7. Stupid inflation. But hey, at least it's still a ridiculously easy oil change!
The 2.3/2.5 is Mazda's version of the Ford Duratec, that's why this works. That said, I get LF05-14-302B Mazda filters for $6 each, so no reason not to use them.
 
This is a SOLID tip, the Motocraft 400 is also almost 1" taller, and is the same price as the 910 which is currently $10 at Oreilly's. Not as cheap as the generic Motocraft, which is now $7. Stupid inflation. But hey, at least it's still a ridiculously easy oil change!
Shop around. Some Walmarts discontinuing Motorcraft, others carry it at markup but others are still have it at $4. Still $4 online at Walmart.com (ask store to price match online).

WIX’s site has tech specs on OE filter (flow rate, mounting thread/pitch, etc), which you can use to cross shop any filter you want as long as it physically fits.
 
The 2.3/2.5 is Mazda's version of the Ford Duratec, that's why this works. That said, I get LF05-14-302B Mazda filters for $6 each, so no reason not to use them.
Mazda doesn’t make oil filters, label re-engineering at best ;)

People over look Motorcraft products bc it has ‘Ford’ in front of it.
 
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