I went with oem. I tried Moog poly ones but they started making noise in a few months and I didn't want to keep greasing them all the time.Will do. Any recommended ones to purchase? Appreciate your help very much.
I went with oem. I tried Moog poly ones but they started making noise in a few months and I didn't want to keep greasing them all the time.Will do. Any recommended ones to purchase? Appreciate your help very much.
I went with oem. I tried Moog poly ones but they started making noise in a few months and I didn't want to keep greasing them all the time.
I honestly don't know the numbers because when I ordered they were for the Mazdaspeed 3 rear sway bar not OEM and my car was a 09 anyway. I'm sure you can't really go wrong, I remember that the 2012 and up cars used a new part number and was updated for better life. There should be numerous threads about it on the forum. It's a super easy job though, you don't need a lift even and you can do it with the car still on the ground. If you do jack it up make sure both sides are up so there is no tension on the sway bar.Ok I will research and grab some OEM ones.
Part Number: BP4K28156E
Part Number: BP4K28156E
$8.30 a piece. Sound about right?
I honestly don't know the numbers because when I ordered they were for the Mazdaspeed 3 rear sway bar not OEM and my car was a 09 anyway. I'm sure you can't really go wrong, I remember that the 2012 and up cars used a new part number and was updated for better life. There should be numerous threads about it on the form. It's a super easy job though, you don't need a lift even and you can do it with the car still on the ground. If you do jack it up make sure both sides are up so there is no tension on the sway bar.
I hear a Tim Taylor grunt.Done with the clutch.
Touched:
Changed gear oil, new clutch, new TOB
New swaybar bushings (stainless brackets with poly bushings, beefy! From JBR), new Axle seals
Work was stretched out over two weeks - one Saturday morning for disassembly and inspection, another Sat 10am-5pm assembly, beer & blah. More parts orders and flywheel resurface in between.
The oil filter adapter is still somewhere in the mail...
Taking out the axles was a pain. Took a huge puller (clamped to brake discs), some heat and penetrating oil to pop them out. Not much visible corrosion but some crud in places.
The JBR brackets are wider than the stock ones. Had to move the crimps on the swaybar a bit further inwards.
Other than that.. it was a smooth drag.
Highly likely bushing. Before jumping the gun, you can isolate it by simply disconnecting the end links and zip tie them to the sub frame (this will disconnect the RSB). It is perfectly safe to drive without the RSB. The car will have a slight tendency to go straight in turns (understeer) as the rear will not rotate as easily. You can easily compensate for the slight difference in everyday driving/highway.Frustrated with mine
3 months ago, did all 4 new bilstein shocks. New trans fluid. New rear brakes. Last month there is a clunking noise from rear passenger. Can't figure out what it is. Shock is tight. Nothing on the inside. Wonder if it is sway bar bushing or sway bar link. SIGH. 89K miles. 2012.Original owner.
as always thank you for the infoHighly likely bushing. Before jumping the gun, you can isolate it by simply disconnecting the end links and zip tie them to the sub frame (this will disconnect the RSB). It is perfectly safe to drive without the RSB. The car will have a slight tendency to go straight in turns (understeer) as the rear will not rotate as easily. You can easily compensate for the slight difference in everyday driving/highway.
To keep poly bushings quiet, wrap the sway bars with teflon tape, then grease the hell out of them, then install bushings.
Sounds like a lot of work.
Would have been cool if you filmed it.
To keep poly bushings quiet, wrap the sway bars with teflon tape, then grease the hell out of them, then install bushings.
Love my OEM roof rack, I added back in 2014. I have a 21 cubic feet Thule Box on top of it. can't seem to find the key that locks the "mazda" part to the roof rack. Been driving with it exposed. Going to take it to a lock smith to see if he can make me a key.Added a roof rack to my 2014 M5 Sport, easier to install than I thought. Those mounting points are great! Next step, snowboard carrier. Just about to hit the 75k mark, time for a checkup.
Hey, that teflon trick is new to me, thanks! Wish I had done it last weekend, installing new bushings.
Oh yea, that new 40% springier ACT Heavy Duty clutch... my wife hates it!
Bonus tip: If you wrap with the teflon tape, you don't need any lube.
I think the are made by Thule. Use the number on the lock cylinder to order new keys.
Love my OEM roof rack, I added back in 2014. I have a 21 cubic feet Thule Box on top of it. can't seem to find the key that locks the "mazda" part to the roof rack. Been driving with it exposed. Going to take it to a lock smith to see if he can make me a key.
Sucks about the key, I got my roof rack on ebay, for $160 from a seller in Canada. Not sure if it's OEM, but it's labeless, though it looks like the Thule Aeroblade.
Welcome! The Exedy OEM replacement one I put in was actually lighter than the factory clutch, so I can't imagine 40% stiffer is that bad.