What have you done to your CX-5 today?

[Conrad 16.5]

I dump in 5 quarts in the CX and call it good. This takes the level to right below the full tick on the dipstick.

On my MX, it calls for 4.5 quarts and that's exactly what I put in, this takes the level to just below the full tick.

One of the nice things about owning these two cars is that they both use the same oil and filters.

 

[Moonlighter]

I agree with your methodology, but like @yrwei52 I am confused about the capacity you used. If your oil comes in liters, they are smaller than our 5 qt jugs. But I checked and you are right, it calls for 4.5 L.

At the end of it all, if you ran the engine to circulate the oil and fill the filter, and the final level was half way between MIN and MAX, then it is fine.

In the Turbo car, we have to use the whole container plus 0.1 from another one. It's annoying. In the future and once my engine wear levels off (and I'm out of warranty), I'll likely move to only changing the filter every other change. In that case it will take only one jug and my job will be incredibly easy with the Fumoto valve.

One litre is MORE than 1 quart.

4.5L = 4.75 Quarts (US).

One 5L container equates to 5.28 quarts. Which would still be more than enough for the 2.5T which takes 4.8L(5.07Q)

Of course I took the car for a drive after completing the change and re-checked the level after it sat for a few minutes. Not my first rodeo. I had filled the new filer before installing it.

Level was perfect as expected.

 

[yrwei52]

I agree with your methodology, but like @yrwei52 I am confused about the capacity you used. If your oil comes in liters, they are smaller than our 5 qt jugs. But I checked and you are right, it calls for 4.5 L.

At the end of it all, if you ran the engine to circulate the oil and fill the filter, and the final level was half way between MIN and MAX, then it is fine.

In the Turbo car, we have to use the whole container plus 0.1 from another one. It's annoying. In the future and once my engine wear levels off (and I'm out of warranty), I'll likely move to only changing the filter every other change. In that case it will take only one jug and my job will be incredibly easy with the Fumoto valve.

The metric system used worldwide where the liter actually is larger than the US quart, 1 liter = 1.05669 US quart. So the 4.8 quarts oil capacity stated in the manual for the 2.5L NA is 4.5 liters.

Yes having the Fumoto valve on oil drain plug is convenient. The problem for me is the thread part of valve is too long and sticks out into the oil pan too much. The result, it prevents more complete oil drain and the amount of used oil left in the oil pan which can’t be drained out would surprise you based on previous Moderator Chris_Top_Her who had the valve and took the oil pan down.

 

[paris1]

Yes having the Fumoto valve on oil drain plug is convenient. The problem for me is the thread part of valve is too long and sticks out into the oil pan too much. The result, it prevents more complete oil drain and the amount of used oil left in the oil pan which can’t drain out would surprise you based on previous Moderator Chris_Top_Her who had the valve and took the oil pan down.

Can't you have the threaded pipe machined/shortened?

 

[yrwei52]

Capacity (including a filter change) stated in the manual is 4.5L for the 2.5 engine. (It states 4.8 for the 2.5T.)

So approx 4.5 is what I put in.

This put the level nicely midway between the marks on the dipstick, as per the manual which states “The level is normal if it is between the min and max marks.”

Mazda’s fluid capacities listed in the manual are “approximate” quantities and misleading. The engine oil for the 2.5T it states 5.1 quarts but actually needs 5.5 quarts to the Max mark. For the 2.5L NA it states 4.8 quarts but needs 5.2 quarts. The worst is for rear differential it states 0.37 quart but we need ~0.75 quart to reach the brim of the fill hole as instructed by Mazda Workshop Manual. If you trust the engine oil capacity listed in the manual, wait until you change the gear oil in front transfer case and real differential.

Every vehicle I’ve owned the fluid capacities are always specified for the full or maximum capacity. Mazda is the first car I’ve owned where the fluid capacities aren’t consistent and ambiguous. This also caused too many first-time Mazda owners who came here to ask oil capacity questions when they change the oil at first time.

Yes Mazda manual says "The level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks.“, but it also says "If it is near or below MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to MAX."

Keeping the fluid level to the Max / Full after the fluid change is a common practice since I can remember. It’s all about bigger safety margin. Keeping the oil level at the Max / Full level protects the engine better when any accident of oil leak happens.

I myself had an incident that the free Toyota new car maintenance oil change done on my 2018 Toyota Yaris iA and overfilled at least 0.5 quart as usually the dealer. I then drove 400 miles from San Jose to LA, only found the oil level didn’t register any on the dipstick the next morning. Turned out the Toyota tech “damaged” the drain plug gasket during the oil change and the oil was leaking out. If the tech didn’t overfill the oil with much bigger safety margin, my Yaris could have a damaged engine and got stranded somewhere on the I-5.

It all about bigger satiety margin. My 2016 CX-5 2.5L NA burns about 0.5 quart of oil per 5,000 miles with 0W-20 oil. I definitely pour in 5.2 quarts of oil each time I change the oil making sure the oil level is at the Full mark after the oil change.

 

[yrwei52]

Can't you have the threaded pipe machined/shortened?

I don’t use Fumoto valve as I feel loosing the factory drain plug isn’t a big deal to me. But yes I’ve read there’re people shortened the Fumoto valve or at least cut a groove on the thread to overcome this shortcoming.

My problem is the official Fumoto valve website claims its valve won’t have this issue, but not.

 

[Moonlighter]

Mazda’s fluid capacities listed in the manual are “approximate” quantities and misleading. The engine oil for the 2.5T it states 5.1 quarts but actually needs 5.5 quarts to the Max mark. For the 2.5L NA it states 4.8 quarts but needs 5.2 quarts. The worst is for rear differential it states 0.37 quart but we need ~0.75 quart to reach the brim of the fill hole as instructed by Mazda Workshop Manual. If you trust the engine oil capacity listed in the manual, wait until you change the gear oil in front transfer case and real differential.

Every vehicle I’ve owned the fluid capacities are always specified for the full or maximum capacity. Mazda is the first car I’ve owned where the fluid capacities aren’t consistent and ambiguous. This also caused too many first-time Mazda owners who came here to ask oil capacity questions when they change the oil at first time.

Yes Mazda manual says "The level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks.“, but it also says "If it is near or below MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to MAX."

Keeping the fluid level to the Max / Full after the fluid change is a common practice since I can remember. It’s all about bigger safety margin. Keeping the oil level at the Max / Full level protects the engine better when any accident of oil leak happens.

I myself had an incident that the free Toyota new car maintenance oil change done on my 2018 Toyota Yaris iA and overfilled at least 0.5 quart as usually the dealer. I then drove 400 miles from San Jose to LA, only found the oil level didn’t register any on the dipstick the next morning. Turned out the Toyota tech “damaged” the drain plug gasket during the oil change and the oil was leaking out. If the tech didn’t overfill the oil with much bigger safety margin, my Yaris could have a damaged engine and got stranded somewhere on the I-5.

It all about bigger satiety margin. My 2016 CX-5 2.5L NA burns about 0.5 quart of oil per 5,000 miles with 0W-20 oil. I definitely pour in 5.2 quarts of oil each time I change the oil making sure the oil level is at the Full mark after the oil change.

There is no mention of “approximate” in the Mazda manual oil capacity specifications.

I checked the oil level the day after I took delivery and it was just below half way between the min/max lines. Checked it again before I changed it yesterday, couldn’t see any noticeable difference.

I will continue to refill 4.5L when I do oil changes (including filter) as per Mazda’s stated capacity. And will have around 500ml (about a pint) left to top up later if necessary.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯
I will continue to refill 4.5L when I do oil changes (including filter) as per Mazda’s stated capacity. And will have around 500ml (about a pint) left to top up later if necessary.ok

Gotta love contradictory statements by Mazda:

"The level is normal if it is between the MIN and MAX marks."

"If it is near or below MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to MAX.”

Here is from Mazda Workshop Manual:

This’s fine with 0.48 quart of gear oil to fill the front transfer case to the brim of the fill hole.

But:

For rear differential, you do need about 0.75 quart of gear oil to fill to the brim of the fill hole, not stated 0.48 quart (or 0.37 quart specified for gen-2 CX-5)!

So which Mazda way do you want to follow?

 

[N7turbo]

The metric system used worldwide where the liter actually is larger than the US quart, 1 liter = 1.05669 US quart. So the 4.8 quarts oil capacity stated in the manual for the 2.5L NA is 4.5 liters.

Yes having the Fumoto valve on oil drain plug is convenient. The problem for me is the thread part of valve is too long and sticks out into the oil pan too much. The result, it prevents more complete oil drain and the amount of used oil left in the oil pan which can’t be drained out would surprise you based on previous Moderator Chris_Top_Her who had the valve and took the oil pan down.

Do you have a link to that? I've read that it does not go very deep into the pan.

 

[N7turbo]

Mazda’s fluid capacities listed in the manual are “approximate” quantities and misleading. The engine oil for the 2.5T it states 5.1 quarts but actually needs 5.5 quarts to the Max mark.

It's not misleading, IMO.

For my 2.5T, it takes 5.1 quarts to reach half-way between MIN and MAX, which is the normal level.

I could see why Mazda would recommend filling to the MAX if your level is at the MIN—probably because you're consuming oil. But for everyone who isn't, there is no need to fill to MAX.

My 0.02

 

[Moonlighter]

It's not misleading, IMO.

For my 2.5T, it takes 5.1 quarts to reach half-way between MIN and MAX, which is the normal level.

I could see why Mazda would recommend filling to the MAX if your level is at the MIN—probably because you're consuming oil. But for everyone who isn't, there is no need to fill to MAX.

My 0.02

Spot on.

Happy to clarify the metric system of measurements for ya’ll! It works just nicely with Japanese cars LOL! Not surprisingly I suppose since they are metric too. I will be there in less than 2 weeks too, just disappointed to find that the Mazda factory/museum in Hiroshima is closed for renovations until at least March 25.

But by God why old mate wants to carry on like a pork chop about nothing is beyond me!

 

[yrwei52]

Do you have a link to that? I've read that it does not go very deep into the pan.

First oil change on 2020 CX-5 Signature: WTF Surprise?

 

[jakeuten]

Today I “downgraded” my headlights from LEDs to halogens (One set Sylvania, the other Phillips) and I could not be happier. This car came with LEDs when I bought it used, and while I never got flashed for blinding anyone from the projector cut off, the actual light pattern and intensity is lacking compared to a halogen. Another annoyance was while using the brights, road signs got absolutely blown out late at night. Process took all of 5 minutes.

 

[SoulRedCX]

Today I “downgraded” my headlights from LEDs to halogens (One set Sylvania, the other Phillips) and I could not be happier. This car came with LEDs when I bought it used, and while I never got flashed for blinding anyone from the projector cut off, the actual light pattern and intensity is lacking compared to a halogen. Another annoyance was while using the brights, road signs got absolutely blown out late at night. Process took all of 5 minutes.


View attachment 333102View attachment 333103

How some people think installing PnP LED bulbs is an upgrade baffles me. The added foreground makes it worse for distance. Heck, a simple bulb upgrade yields better results than the expensive LEDs.

 

[roddster67]

Figured I'd try a thread where everyone can post up what they did for their ride today.

I gave her a nice hand wash and sealed her with some JetSeal 109.

Dodo Juice is on deck...

Installed a Corksport SAI and heatshield.
Needless to say, it doesn't fit like it should.
Now I gotta speak with some drone on the phone tomorrow.

 

[paris1]

Installed a Corksport SAI and heatshield.
Needless to say, it doesn't fit like it should.
Now I gotta speak with some drone on the phone tomorrow.

I first became aware of Corksport in 2013 when I bought my first CX-5 and became a member of a couple of forums. Their products were second rate then and it doesn't surprise me that nothing has changed there.

 

[sm1ke]

I'm a little late to respond, but please keep oil capacity discussion to a minimum in this thread. There are plenty of other threads where people have discussed and debated this ad nauseam. Take the discussion there if you want to continue it. Thanks!

 

[Charmer383]

I first became aware of Corksport in 2013 when I bought my first CX-5 and became a member of a couple of forums. Their products were second rate then and it doesn't surprise me that nothing has changed there.

I searched on the forum here about aftermarket items and saw that company as mainly everyone talking about. After a lil more research I thought well I guess I won't be doing anything to the CX5 They appear to be subpar and would never get my money.

 

[paris1]

My impression of them is they’ll make/sell just about anything they sense a demand for whether there’s a real or only imagined benefit. They seem to tool up quickly and push the product out the door often without adequate development. Compare them to a company like Racing Beat that works closely with Mazda in developing aftermarket performance that fit and perform properly!

 

[N7turbo]

My impression of them is they’ll make/sell just about anything they sense a demand for whether there’s a real or only imagined benefit. They seem to tool up quickly and push the product out the door often without adequate development. Compare them to a company like Racing Beat that works closely with Mazda in developing aftermarket performance that fit and perform properly!

IME CS takes a long time to bring parts to market.