What did you pay for your CX-5?

Thank you!

For future prospective buyers, how many % below invoice would you say is a good deal?

Short Answer: I would say 2-3% below invoice, or about 5-6% off MSRP before incentives is a solid deal for someone off the street not trying to waste a ton of time negotiating with a million dealers. This assumes a dealer fee reasonable for your market (some markets are $200, some are $899).

Long Answer: This may vary slightly on a few factors such as dealer fees, region, purchase type and specific model/trim, but generally speaking Invoice tends to be about 2.5-3% under MSRP, with some base models being closer to 2%.

After invoice you have holdback which should equal 1% of pre-destination MSRP and then CO-OP money which is essentially advertising and marketing reimbursement credits to Mazda dealers which varies based on different tiers that dealers can have (for example, at least back when the new dealer designs came out to replace the old green and orange design, dealers would get paid back more money per car for making the investment to modernize). Let's call that 2.5%. There is also typically some other behind the scenes cash that the dealer makes at volume and again based on the tier of that dealership. All said and done, not counting the money they make back on dealer fees, typically 10-11% off is where dealers truly start losing money, assuming they are a high volume dealer maximizing on their manufacturer bonuses.

Now to be clear, this is net profit to the ownership, sales reps and sales manager rarely get paid on net profit, they have a gross profit based on a cost before holdback, Co-Op and the behind the scenes money which is why it is so hard to get a deal this low because the people you are working with are literally taking money out of their paycheck to sell them that deep because their loss on their pay line stars closer to 4-5% area. This is why we work with ownership for bulk deals and those decision makers can see the real net profit lines.

Bought a car about two weeks ago in the PNW region. Cash deal no financing.

2025 CX-5 2.5 Turbo Signature
MSRP: $44,245 (Soul Red Paint, Cargo Cover, Wheel Locks, Roof Rail & Cross Bar PKG)
Sale Price: ~$39k (inclusive of $2k customer cash + $750 mazda loyalty)
OTD Price: ~$39k + TTL

That’s 11.5% off MSRP. Not the best deal I’ve ever negotiated, but the wife insisted on red and there was very low inventory in my area with that color. Most cars on lots came in either white, black, or gray.
Just some advice when comparing deals and negotiating. Never include rebates as a discount. Those are non-cost adjustments from the dealer, the manufacturer pays for them, if they manufacturer gave them a $40,000 rebate, you wouldn't be getting a 95% off deal from the dealer. Your real sale price here, based on your numbers is $41,750 which represents a 5.6% discount.

Considering you paid cash and the dealer isn't getting any money back from the bank, this is a great deal. You also got a nice amount of rebates with it, which does affect how good of a deal of course holistically (a $40k rebate at MSRP from the dealer still beats a 10% off dealer discount with no rebates), but my method is to gauge the dealer participation aspect, plus Mazda rebates tend to be pretty consistent. You rarely see a big outlier in huge rebates.

-Matt
 
Just some advice when comparing deals and negotiating. Never include rebates as a discount. Those are non-cost adjustments from the dealer, the manufacturer pays for them, if they manufacturer gave them a $40,000 rebate, you wouldn't be getting a 95% off deal from the dealer. Your real sale price here, based on your numbers is $41,750 which represents a 5.6% discount.

Considering you paid cash and the dealer isn't getting any money back from the bank, this is a great deal. You also got a nice amount of rebates with it, which does affect how good of a deal of course holistically (a $40k rebate at MSRP from the dealer still beats a 10% off dealer discount with no rebates), but my method is to gauge the dealer participation aspect, plus Mazda rebates tend to be pretty consistent. You rarely see a big outlier in huge rebates.

-Matt
Sure from a pure negotiating angle I’d agree with you. You always want to negotiate the best price before bringing in manufacturers rebates.

Now that said, at the end of the day the consumer doesn’t care where the discount is coming from dealer or manufacturer. All that matters from a consumer’s point of view is the out the door price.
 
6 eggs or half a dozen...
You may not negotiate taxes, but by negotiating OTD price, you are still in one way or another negotating the sale price.
No offence, but that's the uneducated way of "negotiating". You should remove all non-negotiables from the equation before starting the process. Those include things like, taxes, registration and dealer doc fees. You also need to know of any and all rebates available and discuss eligibility before anything else. If you have a trade, that's a separate negotiation.

The only value in OTD price, is when you're comparing to someone else with the exact same variables and location as you. It's pretty useless comparing OTD price with someone on the internet who lives in a different state, or even county from you.
 
No offence, but that's the uneducated way of "negotiating". You should remove all non-negotiables from the equation before starting the process. Those include things like, taxes, registration and dealer doc fees. You also need to know of any and all rebates available and discuss eligibility before anything else. If you have a trade, that's a separate negotiation.

The only value in OTD price, is when you're comparing to someone else with the exact same variables and location as you. It's pretty useless comparing OTD price with someone on the internet who lives in a different state, or even county from you.
Oh I gotcha. Yes, when comparing prices across geographical regions, sale price is the best apples-to-apples comparison.

I was thinking from a more individualistic level, using OTD price to negotiate with the dealers.
 
Sure from a pure negotiating angle I’d agree with you. You always want to negotiate the best price before bringing in manufacturers rebates.

Now that said, at the end of the day the consumer doesn’t care where the discount is coming from dealer or manufacturer. All that matters from a consumer’s point of view is the out the door price.
I would argue that is a flawed point of view if you are solely negotiating with one dealer. I will agree if you are shopping multiple dealers (as you should) then sure, the net out the door is what you are paying at the end of the day so its a fair comparison. But there are still exceptions to this.

At the end of the day seeing a $5,000 rebate while the dealer sells at MSRP or over may appear to the uninformed consumer as a great deal. An informed consumer may know theres another $2,000-$3,000 on the table, which no offense, but if you're shopping for a Mazda you probably aren't Bezos rich and probably actually care about keeping your money.

IMO, being an informed consumer typically yields better results.

-Matt
 

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