What did you pay for your CX-5?

[Kaps]

Really? MSRP was 34100
INVOICE was 32840
Price in white paint with AWD, active I sense, and the technology pkg with all weather mats, the bumper guard, and roof rack rails... 31847.
I know in my area kbb says average paid is around 33k.. Couldn't get them to budge anymore.. Plus looking at .9 financing... Got quoted from more than one dealer.. Another offered 31,446 but not in white paint, it was silver. Hmm..

A 6.7% discount is not bad but not great.
If you are short on time, time is money.

I would agree - assuming your MSRP is not inclusive of bumperguard weather mats etc. cause those are supposed to be freebies for a deal hunter - 6.7 is ok.
But there are people who have done 13-14% off so the best deals are almost double your discount.

I would settle for 10% or so anyday if I were buying again, wait a bit and let one of the dealers drop the ball, when one does they all do.

 

[PaulZooms]

I'd offer them $30,700 (10% off MSRP) and walk if they don't take it. Someone will take that if you are flexible on colors.

They may be calling you soon, if they let you leave . I've had dealers stop me as I was backing out "OK, we'll take your offer!"

 

[Tracy3131]

There were two dealers in my area that had what I want.. I do like the white paint, but mainly, only two had the I active sense package AND the technology package... I guess most people just buy grand touring with tech only...? I will try to get more off..

 

[Kaps]

I know, here in DFW you see 35 GTs on a dealer lot with 11 Tourings and 8 Sport trims.
Looks like many Lexus / Merc would be buyers go for GT loaded or that it has much better profit margins for dealers to stock.

It is opposite of what Rav4 buying pattern would be 30% LE / 40 XLE and 30 Limited.

 

[srj]

Picked up a 2016.5 Touring blue/sand without any packages for $26,300 and a $199 doc fee. 0.9% financing for 63 months. This seems to be right around invoice. I could have taken the $500 financing rebate, but I would have paid an additional $1,200 in financing.

I could have done better on meteor gray or leaving and coming back, but I really didn't have time to play the game.

I see people posting discount from msrp. I think total purchase price is more important unless I'm mistaken. I believe total purchase price is: price paid for car + doc/admin fees + financing cost. In my case: $26,300 + $199 + $500 = $26,999. This still beats MSRP by 2%.

I think OTD is a bad comparison because every state has different taxes. Also, some people are getting a lower purchase price, but taking on a higher financing cost. As I mentioned, I could have taken a $500 rebate, but my total price would have increased to $27,700 (essentially MSRP). Thoughts? I know some people end up refinancing, but I don't think my credit union would have financed for 0.9%. Even if they did, I'm not sure if there are typically fees asdociated.

 

[Kaps]

Picked up a 2016.5 Touring blue/sand without any packages for $26,300 and a $199 doc fee. 0.9% financing for 63 months. This seems to be right around invoice. I could have taken the $500 financing rebate, but I would have paid an additional $1,200 in financing.

I could have done better on meteor gray or leaving and coming back, but I really didn't have time to play the game.

I see people posting discount from msrp. I think total purchase price is more important unless I'm mistaken. I believe total purchase price is: price paid for car + doc/admin fees + financing cost. In my case: $26,300 + $199 + $500 = $26,999. This still beats MSRP by 2%.

I think OTD is a bad comparison because every state has different taxes. Also, some people are getting a lower purchase price, but taking on a higher financing cost. As I mentioned, I could have taken a $500 rebate, but my total price would have increased to $27,700 (essentially MSRP). Thoughts? I know some people end up refinancing, but I don't think my credit union would have financed for 0.9%. Even if they did, I'm not sure if there are typically fees asdociated.

I have a different chain of thought - but here are my numbers
I got the same color as you - Man I need to wipe it down every week to get rid of those spots otherwise what a beautiful color.


2016.5 Touring Deep Blue / Sand - Bose Audio & Moon roof . My price was 23,911 /- Discount % was 12.24

Here is my thinking - cost of finance is not what you pay right away - you do it over the years. Price of the car is what you pay now! You are never getting it back, cost of finance - if you plan on pre paying even $100 every 2 months that will still save you a bit. Or you can pay it all if things improve.

I financed 5.09% from the dealer, I will switch it to my DCU for 1.74 or 1.99% - I financed 18,100 / rest was cash. Basically I can afford a higher vehicle but due to uncertain times I went with a Touring.

But like you said - you did not have time and that is fair reason. Don't look back and have fun.

 

[NelsonLewis]

Picked up a 2016.5 Touring blue/sand without any packages for $26,300 and a $199 doc fee. 0.9% financing for 63 months. This seems to be right around invoice. I could have taken the $500 financing rebate, but I would have paid an additional $1,200 in financing.

I could have done better on meteor gray or leaving and coming back, but I really didn't have time to play the game.

I see people posting discount from msrp. I think total purchase price is more important unless I'm mistaken. I believe total purchase price is: price paid for car + doc/admin fees + financing cost. In my case: $26,300 + $199 + $500 = $26,999. This still beats MSRP by 2%.

I think OTD is a bad comparison because every state has different taxes. Also, some people are getting a lower purchase price, but taking on a higher financing cost. As I mentioned, I could have taken a $500 rebate, but my total price would have increased to $27,700 (essentially MSRP). Thoughts? I know some people end up refinancing, but I don't think my credit union would have financed for 0.9%. Even if they did, I'm not sure if there are typically fees asdociated.

I have a different thinking on this as well. Total purchase price has nothing to do with financing. Too many variables there (paying off early, selling, etc). The selling price before taxes, fees, and rebates is all that matters because these fluctuate with everyone, whereas the agreed upon selling price is just that, what they will sell you the car for before adding the aforementioned cost.

How did you not get the $500 financing rebate if you financed through Mazda/Chase? I too was offered the 0.9% for up to 60 months with the $500 financing rebate.

Enjoy your new car, but I think the stealership played games with you on price and rebates. The $199 doc fee is acceptable, though.

 

[Kaps]

Srj - I did get the $500 off, my finance cost is $3K but I will switch it and pre pay occasionally to keep my cost of finance < 500. So I still make a profit but am able to enjoy the car without shelling for it fully on day one.
Infact before I came in i said - I will put 7 down will you throw in Cargo Tray and they did ($60 worth genuine mazda tray is good value).

 

[paintchips]

I'm in the market for a CX-5 GT with Tech Package and I am not getting anywhere close to the % discounts discussed in recent threads. The dealerships keep showing me the "Invoice" and my number is way below it. Is there truly very little profit in these vehicles? If so how could someone score a deal at 10-13% off MSRP? Thanks!

 

[BraveUlysses]

check truecar to see what people are paying in your area

 

[NelsonLewis]

check truecar to see what people are paying in your area

Going by TrueCar is the biggest way to get ripped off and give the stealership an advantage. When I'm shopping for cars, I go ahead and avoid the dealers that hit me back with "my number is better than TrueCar." TrueCar is a joke...it list the price I should pay right now in the area I've been shopping as above invoice, and I got several dealers way under invoice with a simple email. Heck, most even had a better price than TrueCar post listed on their website before even contacting them.

 

[Kaps]

I'm in the market for a CX-5 GT with Tech Package and I am not getting anywhere close to the % discounts discussed in recent threads. The dealerships keep showing me the "Invoice" and my number is way below it. Is there truly very little profit in these vehicles? If so how could someone score a deal at 10-13% off MSRP? Thanks!

Maybe I was lucky but anyhow got 12.24% off MSRP with cargo tray and tint thrown in, I think also the first service free.
I have only purchased 1 new car in the US. Here is what I did:
1. Rule #1 never visit a dealer unless u have some sort of price agreement. Be that interested but hard to get in the door customer. Once you get in they know u love the car and take advantage of that.
2. Here are the steps - in the Order that worked for me.

> Email few dealers, ask for a trim and the price.
Some dealers respond with a price.
Some say - come in and we will make it worth your time.

> Wait, keep talking vague things in email but wait.

> Meantime test drive the CX-5 : This segment has many gems like Rav4, CRV, Rogue, Escape and CX-5 you cannot go wrong with any. So make sure you like the car - take an extended test drive from a dealer you like - no pressure environment.

> Wait. Dont step into any dealer.

> Emails will keep on coming, pull the "At this price point the Rogue is a more car for the buck" Trick. tell them you are not that desperate and are shopping around.

> Eventually a dealer drops the price - take that price and ask for price match. You may get a better deal.

> Throw in something to get something back - put 5k down but need these accessories. Use OTD price.


It is not easy, if it was all buyers would be able to do it, patience is important. I had a color + trim restriction and bought mine under 1.5 weeks - so very happy, but then I am in a huge market.

On Trucar.com the price was 26700, i got mine for 23900 - 10% off trucar.

You can never know the margins for dealers, but don't cry for them - the lady in front of me in finance bought similar car and paid 2.1K more. I am sure there are CX-5 buyers who paid my price for a Sport, not even base touring.

Most importantly enjoy the car.

 

[BraveUlysses]

Going by TrueCar is the biggest way to get ripped off and give the stealership an advantage. When I'm shopping for cars, I go ahead and avoid the dealers that hit me back with "my number is better than TrueCar." TrueCar is a joke...it list the price I should pay right now in the area I've been shopping as above invoice, and I got several dealers way under invoice with a simple email. Heck, most even had a better price than TrueCar post listed on their website before even contacting them.

it's still a series of valid data points to see what people are paying--i'm not saying you shouldn't hardball your way into a significant discount and ignore any salesman pleas about "beating truecar prices".

 

[NelsonLewis]

it's still a series of valid data points to see what people are paying--i'm not saying you shouldn't hardball your way into a significant discount and ignore any salesman pleas about "beating truecar prices".

I disagree still, but to each their own. No help
Whatsoever looking at TrueCar other than giving the upper hand to the stealership.

 

[wah]

First post! Went into the dealership looking for a GT/tech and asked for 10% off MSRP... the manager told me I need to be realistic. I left without a deal. There are a few dealerships around me (NJ) so I guess I need to start emailing everyone.

Does Mazda typically offer incentives at the end of the year? Bigger than the $500 off they are doing now?

 

[Tracy3131]

I posted prior on price.. I was not able to get 10% off msrp and haven't seen that anywhere in my area..
Msrp- $34,100 Grand Touring with active isense package and tech package in pearl white.

Invoice- $32840
Price paid - $31740.
Vehicle had all weather mats, bumper guard, roof rails.
Also did well on trade (2014 Kia optima sx turbo 36k- 17,500)
Received .9 financing through Mazda/chase.
Although others may not agree, I feel I did well on the deal and love the car so far. Garage door was a pain and still haven't found oil monitor...

 

[Kaps]

Well at the end a few percents are not going to change our lives - they just make you feel good and mostly we will waste it on other non necessary things.
I was reading a dealer review in which a Guy was pissed at the dealer because he would not get his friends deal, his friends deal on a Mazda 3 Touring was approx 20% off the MSRP. I was like wtf???

Yep so it always happens. Most importantly you buy a car that fits you well, then in the long run 2 or 3 % won't matter. I see people who hardly offroad buy a Wrangler to ride in style in city.

 

[Tesseract]

What's the going price for a GS or GT 2016 in Ontario Canada? I'm assuming there should be some really good rebates floating around this time of year.

 

[jcubed]

On the CX-5 if you have time this would be my strategy.

1. Send a request to quote for 4-5 dealers -- some will give you quote some will not.
2. Wait Wait Wait - dont go in to a dealership first you will get a bad quote.
3. Test drive from a dealer - use the extended one if they offer, that helped me decide on the car.
4. Hopefully soon - one of the dealers will get desperate and will offer you a good 10% off MSRP.
5. Add more things you want - Cargo Tray and Tint were free for me, i did not care for others.
6. Use the give and take on accessories - I will throw in 7K down, give me the cargo tray and so on. Dont reveal all your cards up front.

Can you give more detailed instructions for steps 5 and 6? Do I tell them all the accessories I want and go back and forth from there? Or do I drip them out one at a time? In what order?

In my case, I got a four-square yesterday for a 2016.5 AWD GT w/ Tech in Reflex Blue with the following values:

• Market Value: $30,495
• Trade Market Value: $8,500
• Down Payment: $0
• Monthly Payment: $414.88 for 60 months

The math doesn't quite add up for me (in a good way), but here's the breakdown, as best as I can figure:

• MSRP: $30,495.00
• Dest, Doc, etc: $0
• Mysterious Credit to Make the Math Work: $640
• Tax: $2,851.23
• Plate Transfer Registration: $126
• Out the Door: $32,832.23
• Trade-In Credit: $8500
• Total Loan: $24,332.23
• APR: 0.9%
• Term Length: 60 months
• Monthly Payment: $414.88

Now, to get the color I want, they'll have to swap with another dealer 20 miles away. I looked up the VIN, and I could also contact that dealer, if necessary. I prefer the Reflex Blue, but I could be flexible on color to get the best deal. How much negotiating power do I give up with a dealer swap?

I also have lines of communication open with a couple of other dealers, whom I originally contacted about a month ago. So, I have already winnowed it down to the ones who are willing to work with me.

According to the "window sticker" print-out they gave me for the swap car, it already has the cargo cover included (which is what I want). I also want the following accessories, in approximate order:

1. Cargo tray
2. Door edge paint protection
3. Free first oil change
4. Metal Mazda plate frames
5. Mazda valve stem caps

How do I approach those? I can offer to put more cash down; is that valuable to the dealer at all?

Thanks!

 

[Kaps]

Can you give more detailed instructions for steps 5 and 6? Do I tell them all the accessories I want and go back and forth from there? Or do I drip them out one at a time? In what order?

Accessories are very cheap for a dealer. You are going to get a great deal because he wants to make up numbers for a mfg. target which will give him rebate or the salesman has to hit his target for the month etc. You make dealers work against each other. If i could, instead of accessories I would swap for services since I dont do my own oil changes. At the end of the day you have to decide lowest out of pocket cost.
In your case I would:
Quote a competing dealer and tell them to beat it by a little plus add an accessory.
Pay for an accessory and get one free if I can
Opt for 2 or 3 services free etc.
The cargo tray for example is $75 but for the dealer it could be a cost price of $15 or less. Those are the margins they have on accessories.
Putting more down is always going to get you a sweeter deal but dont give it up front. Get a good quote and then say will you throw in xyz if I put $5k down etc.
Mazda and the dealer both will recognize the revenue in this reporting period if you put more down and that is a good thing.

The math doesn't quite add up for me (in a good way), but here's the breakdown, as best as I can figure:

• MSRP: $30,495.00
• Dest, Doc, etc: $0
• Mysterious Credit to Make the Math Work: $640
• Tax: $2,851.23
• Plate Transfer Registration: $126
• Out the Door: $32,832.23
• Trade-In Credit: $8500
• Total Loan: $24,332.23
• APR: 0.9%
• Term Length: 60 months
• Monthly Payment: $414.88

I paid OTD which is 5.3% less than MSRP. My Msrp was 23911 for a 27250 vehicle - Touring with Bose Audio. In a way I think folks going for GT could easily negotiate more. Taking that yardstick and add $400 you should target 9% off MSRP + all your accessories or most of it. That would be sweet. I dont like buying no name chinese stuff off eBay if I can avoid. So try to get your accessories at dealer.

Now, to get the color I want, they'll have to swap with another dealer 20 miles away. I looked up the VIN, and I could also contact that dealer, if necessary. I prefer the Reflex Blue, but I could be flexible on color to get the best deal. How much negotiating power do I give up with a dealer swap?

I also have lines of communication open with a couple of other dealers, whom I originally contacted about a month ago. So, I have already winnowed it down to the ones who are willing to work with me.

According to the "window sticker" print-out they gave me for the swap car, it already has the cargo cover included (which is what I want). I also want the following accessories, in approximate order:

1. Cargo tray
2. Door edge paint protection
3. Free first oil change
4. Metal Mazda plate frames
5. Mazda valve stem caps

How do I approach those? I can offer to put more cash down; is that valuable to the dealer at all?

Thanks!

Swap car - I am not sure, the dealer who has it might give you a better deal as was in my case. I was willing to pay my dealer $400 more than the other dealer since he sold me the Mazda in a way but he would not touch it.