VICS Sucks!!!!

dyno shop is pretty close to me... and no I don't have a dyno of it running "properly" :)

I like Brian's method best :)
 
and brian we are talking about VICS not VTCS just in case you are thinking of the wrong one.. EVERYONE rips out VTCS... but not many or any have ripped out VICS>
 
TurfBurn said:
dyno shop is pretty close to me... and no I don't have a dyno of it running "properly" :)

I like Brian's method best :)


(first) It's easier to just get rid of it when you can, than have to fuckaround and pull it all appart.

Is there any concern with the other ones coming off? at the injectors?
 
TurfBurn said:
03 is with closing the butterflies at high rpm's... in other words the opposite of how it would normally be run by the stock ECU.

1 and 2 the butterflies are open the entire time...

At the beginning of 03 (up to 4500 rpm's) they are left open however... and then closed... so the opposite of how they should be run... so the graph does not show anything of value as far as what happens at low rpm's... only as to what will happen at high rpm's.

Looking at the graph, it only looks like run01 lost power with it open, run02 is dead even with run03 at the low end.
 
I think run 1 might have been slightly less boost or something... it doesn't show the wobble from the EBC and it runs lower than the rest the entire time.
 
Okay I disable my vacuum line going to the solenoid and you can actually feel the difference I am not even turbo. I will see if I take some pics of how I have it setup.

Laters
 
Brian MP5T said:
(first) It's easier to just get rid of it when you can, than have to fuckaround and pull it all appart.

Is there any concern with the other ones coming off? at the injectors?

isnt the one at the injectors the vtcs? the one that EVERYONE rips out? so actually i can rip out both... lose some low end torque.. but be okay at the high rpms?

i think i will just be the test bed and rip both the vics and the vtcs out... ill plug the holes at the end and see what happens... this also means that i wont need those two actuators on top of the manifold right? wonder how im going to run the vacuum lines after i take those out. steve... you got an extra intake mani just incase i **** this thing up? lol...

ill remove both vics and vtcs, fill the holes, port the end of the mani and see what happens. anyone have any good arguments as to why i shouldnt? my turbo is a gt3071 so i should be able to spool up fast anyways... less restriction should mean a little more flow at the upper rpms... we will see
 
Brian MP5T said:
I Removed the F-ing thing when I had the car appart...

you removed the one at the middle of the intake mani right? thats the vics if i remember correctly... i havent heard of anyone else ripping this out but i will before i put the manifold back in... how did you run the vacuum lines to the actuators after you did this? ill look at it later today, but im thinking if i dont have both the vics and the vtcs itll open up direct vacuum lines for other things (boost controller, boost gauge, etc)... maybe the manifold will look a little cleaner too!
 
duMb KeoLa said:
you removed the one at the middle of the intake mani right? thats the vics if i remember correctly... i havent heard of anyone else ripping this out but i will before i put the manifold back in... how did you run the vacuum lines to the actuators after you did this? ill look at it later today, but im thinking if i dont have both the vics and the vtcs itll open up direct vacuum lines for other things (boost controller, boost gauge, etc)... maybe the manifold will look a little cleaner too!
If you remove these valves, then you can remove the actuators also, no need to run any vacuum line. You will have to leave the solenoids there though for the ECU, or something with equivalent electrical load to trick the ECU.

If you do this I would just plug the nipple on the intake manifold. You don't want to use that source for a boost gauge or boost controller or anything like that because it is sourced from a vacuum resevoir that has a check valve, so it is not a real representation of manifold pressure, it will show vacuum pretty much all the time.
 
peepsalot said:
If you remove these valves, then you can remove the actuators also, no need to run any vacuum line. You will have to leave the solenoids there though for the ECU, or something with equivalent electrical load to trick the ECU.

If you do this I would just plug the nipple on the intake manifold. You don't want to use that source for a boost gauge or boost controller or anything like that because it is sourced from a vacuum resevoir that has a check valve, so it is not a real representation of manifold pressure, it will show vacuum pretty much all the time.

good stuff to know... now the question i have is will i need to trick the stock ecu since i have the microtech... i dont think so, but we will see. i also cut the cruise control wires at the base and will cut the maf sensor wires at the base... i believe the car wont be affected since i have the microtech... but we will see
 
The motor won't be affected and you can ditch all the other stuff without issue... you should be good Keola... You can remove those solenoids and their bracket from the top of the motor safely. and all the wiring associated with that. So no worries there... just make sure you search that manifold over and don't leave any ports open or it will cause major havoc when you get started.. and since we know the 550 maps are golden and your unit has been tested if you have any problems starting at all it's all in the motor or the wiring... NOT the microtech or the map. :)
 
peepsalot said:
If you do this I would just plug the nipple on the intake manifold. You don't want to use that source for a boost gauge or boost controller or anything like that because it is sourced from a vacuum resevoir that has a check valve, so it is not a real representation of manifold pressure, it will show vacuum pretty much all the time.

Correct.. the line that feeds that solenoid comes off the vac chamber.. but any of the ports on the top half of the mani are all good to be used. :)
 
TurfBurn said:
Correct.. the line that feeds that solenoid comes off the vac chamber.. but any of the ports on the top half of the mani are all good to be used. :)

so all of the lines coming from the manifold should be good sources for vacuum? just wondering if this check valve thing is going to be a pain...
 
duMb KeoLa said:
so all of the lines coming from the manifold should be good sources for vacuum? just wondering if this check valve thing is going to be a pain...
Why would the check valve be a pain? Just plug that particular nipple and ignore it.

The check valve itself is a little White and green plastic thing attached to the bottom passenger side of your intake manifold. If you really wanted to, you could remove that too, and replace it with regular straight through hose, then you could use that nipple for a regular vacuum source. When you have your manifold apart, it should all be clear what is going on.
 
peepsalot said:
Why would the check valve be a pain? Just plug that particular nipple and ignore it.

The check valve itself is a little White and green plastic thing attached to the bottom passenger side of your intake manifold. If you really wanted to, you could remove that too, and replace it with regular straight through hose, then you could use that nipple for a regular vacuum source. When you have your manifold apart, it should all be clear what is going on.

okay... im pretty sure i removed that already... but i will double check...
 
As long as you are taking source from nipples associated with the runners or the plenum by the TB you are fine... if you take from a nipple on the vac chamber you'll have issues.. just look at the mani good and it'll all make sense as to what is what and what you can and can't use. I left my check valve on there because it was a couple less nipples to have to figure out how to plug or hose to try to clamp in place and a vac source could come in handly later.
 
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