Tried to put on winter steelies but my rims are seized!!!!

ggweci

Member
:
2003 Protege5
Is this a known problem?

Today I went to swap my stock rims/tires with my winter steelies/tires but had no luck...the stock rims are seized to the hub/brake mounting surface...I had to use a huge amount of force and was finally able to remove the front driver side, but then went on to the rear and had NO luck at all...it would not budge! I tried using some lubricant to see if that would help but still nothing!

has anyone else had this occur? what are my options here? I'm thinking about going to Mazda to have them fix this problem, is it covered under warranty? this is a very big issue....say I were to get a flat out of the city, and had no means of contacting a tow-truck, I would be unable to change to my doughnut!?!

any help would be great...TIA
 
Snows?

That's a b**** about the rims being stuck, but after last night's balmy temps, are you really worried about snow this early?
 
I had the exact same thing happen to me a couple of days ago. A few sharp tugs & a couple of kicks (kicks were as a result of frustration. Otherwise, I don't recommend kicks :P ) I eventually got them off.

Oh, and if you're not strong enough, maybe your girlfriend can do it :P (jokes)

PS - ggweci, are you a part of TOprotege.com?
 
Like paulmp3 said, Loosen the lugnuts and drive it forward and backwards a few times. Then after you jack it up, just give the tires a nice swift kick.
 
i was at america's tires and they were trying to take off a vw rim and it didnt' come out...so they guy was going to town on it with a rubber mallet and then they realized that there was a wheel lock on it...ya...vw's are wierd...just wanted to share

btw...i made sure that f*cker didn't touch my car :D
 
PBH said:
I had the exact same thing happen to me a couple of days ago. A few sharp tugs & a couple of kicks (kicks were as a result of frustration. Otherwise, I don't recommend kicks :P ) I eventually got them off.

Oh, and if you're not strong enough, maybe your girlfriend can do it :P (jokes)

PS - ggweci, are you a part of TOprotege.com?

not part of the club, but just visit the site once in a while...

and i did ask my girlfriend to help me out but she couldn't do it either...i even asked YOUR girlfriend, but still no luck :p :D (j/k!)

but seriously though, maybe i should try the rubber mallet idea...i think that could work...but i tried kicking the tires but nothing...they are stuck on there good and hard...

about that driving back and forth, i assume that's safe? so what do i do, remove all the nuts and then just drive back and forth about a foot or so? it's that simple?

thanks for the help thus far guys...
 
use some PB Blaster to remove the wheels...also once you get them off put a small amount of grease on the center hub. It should prevent it from seizing next time.

-Alan
 
my weapon of choice, 24 inch Rigid pipe wrench hitting the back of the tire/rim bead

rubber mallet doesn't work because rubber hitting rubber doesn't transmitt enough vibration to shake off the corrosion on the back/hub face of the spindle. Whatever force you put ont he mallet is absorbed by the rubber on the tire anyways.

Its also easier if you drive hard for a whlie since your rims would be all warmed up.

Put antiseize on when you put your rim/tires on
 
bulls*** ALL ******* bulls*** LIES THIS THREAD IS FULL OF

pb blaster can suck my cock
liquid wrench can blow me

the rubber mallet is good for s***
kicking is worthless
sharp tugs only does nothing


2 pro5 rims on front.
2 racing harts on back.

death to everyone
 
Dexter said:
bulls*** ALL ******* bulls*** LIES THIS THREAD IS FULL OF

pb blaster can suck my cock
liquid wrench can blow me

the rubber mallet is good for s***
kicking is worthless
sharp tugs only does nothing


2 pro5 rims on front.
2 racing harts on back.

death to everyone
:confused:

This happens every time I go to rotate my tires. I use a rubber mallet. Do you guys think it's safe to go using lubricants around the brakes like that?
 
lubricants are ment for assemblies that move in different velocities between one another thus having a relative velocity between one another

Your hub and your wheels move at the same velocity so their relative velocity is zero, thats why they dont need lube and thats why they seize up
 
ok, i made a second attempt this morning to swap to my winters...i went with the rubber mallet to hammer the tires from the inside and PRESTO! they came off with relative ease...what a relief! great suggestion guys!...i also put some anti-seize compound on the rims to hopefully make things easier next time...

thanks again for all the advice and help guys!
 
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Dexter
bulls*** ALL ******* bulls*** LIES THIS THREAD IS FULL OF

pb blaster can suck my cock
liquid wrench can blow me

the rubber mallet is good for s***
kicking is worthless
sharp tugs only does nothing


2 pro5 rims on front.
2 racing harts on back.

death to everyone
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My wheels in the back were seized as well with rust. I had to go to Schaumburg Mazda to have them removed for $50. They wouldn't honor the warranty due to the rusty rotor being a "wear and tear" item. My a$$! If I had a flat I couldn't have taken that wheel off in the field. They sanded the rotor and contact portion of the wheel. They put antiseize on. They used a rubber mallet. My a$$! I used liquid wrench, a rubber mallet, kicking, and a ten foot 2x4 to lever to the point of snapping. (I also was driving many miles with 4 bolts to maybe cause a harmonic to break the seal but to no avail). I'm thinking the rusty rotor syndrome isn't as bad as the rusty hub casing syndrome.
 
Carl said:

My wheels in the back were seized as well with rust. I had to go to Schaumburg Mazda to have them removed for $50. They wouldn't honor the warranty due to the rusty rotor being a "wear and tear" item. My a$$! If I had a flat I couldn't have taken that wheel off in the field. They sanded the rotor and contact portion of the wheel. They put antiseize on. They used a rubber mallet. My a$$! I used liquid wrench, a rubber mallet, kicking, and a ten foot 2x4 to lever to the point of snapping. (I also was driving many miles with 4 bolts to maybe cause a harmonic to break the seal but to no avail). I'm thinking the rusty rotor syndrome isn't as bad as the rusty hub casing syndrome.

did you ask them how they got them off? id really like to get them off myself; i have this damn feeling if i take it somewhere i am going to not only pay, but im going to pay to get my racing harts scratched. i know it.
 
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