Tips for turbo installations

[Bigg Tim]

quick question about soldering..

when i solder wires, i just twist the wires together and then cover them with melted solder.....i usually get a big solder ball by doing this


is this bad?

Like Ryan said, if you heat up the wire enough, the solder will suck into it. A ball of solder does nothing, you need the solder to get sucked in. You should see the outlines of some of the strands, that way you know it was sucked it. When I solder, once it's sucked in, I add a bit more solder then flick the wire a little to get rid of the excess solder. Sometimes it will hit you, but you know you don't have too much on.

Solder shoud bond the wires together from the inside out, not hold them together from the outside only.

 

[Matthew]

someone should do a how to

 

[bazooka joe]

heres some how to sites
http://www.fanbus.com/thelab/Soldering/soldering.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
http://www.mindhertz.com/Solder.php
http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/How_To_Solder/solder.htm
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

 

[Matthew]

nice, bump for some more damn info...besides soldering...i know people have had problems that they can add to my first list.

 

[cyomega]

RE: soldering

I know it kind of goes without saying, but I didn't see any mention of this above. Pick up some heat-shring tubing to go over the soldered wires. Weather insulation = important.

 

[Murda]

1) Anyone have any good install guides? Just read pirana's. Anything exist for MAM Street Sleeper?

2) What are recommended plugs for a P5 on boost?

3) What are some basic checks that you can do post-install to check for problems?

4) Weird pitfalls?

5) Is an OBDII scanner highly recommended?

 

[RyanJayG]

yeah, Vic (pirana) did a good job. PDHaudio83 did a little install guide for the MAM kit, but it wasn't quite on par with Victor's. With plugs for a P5 it would be wise to get 1 heat range cooler, and iridium plugs. to keep down the chance of detonation and keeping them from fouling out too fast.

There are instructions with pretty mcuh EVERY kit on the market, so pitfalls occur when people dont read them. I know that the MAM kit fits together perfectly, but when people don't read directions it can be a b****. mostly because of the integrated external wastegate tube. Its a great addition, but for the reading challenged it is the one step that gives them trouble.

An OBDII scanner is a nifty tool, but depending on the type of engine management your kit provides, or you chose to buy, it may be unnecissary. However if you ever do have trouble, and dont live near an Autozone, or equivalent auto-parts store that reads codes, then you should really look into buying one regardless.

 

[Matthew]

or if you live near me, they wont scan your codes...

 

[Murda]

1) How much did everyone pay to get a bung on the oil drain pan?

2) While the drain pan is off, does the area need to be protected to prevent moisture from getting into the engine? I noticed some people use saran wrap like material to cover the engine while the head is off. Suggested? Or redundant? in this case.

3) Miscellaneous materials needed? Silicone? Lock tite? Adhesive for the drain pan?

4) Since you need to go from the recommended 89 octane (in a P5) to 93 or whatever you have available. Does it take more than one tank to ensure that you have 93 octane in your system?

 

[13984]

1) How much did everyone pay to get a bung on the oil drain pan?

2) While the drain pan is off, does the area need to be protected to prevent moisture from getting into the engine? I noticed some people use saran wrap like material to cover the engine while the head is off. Suggested? Or redundant? in this case.

3) Miscellaneous materials needed? Silicone? Lock tite? Adhesive for the drain pan?

4) Since you need to go from the recommended 89 octane (in a P5) to 93 or whatever you have available. Does it take more than one tank to ensure that you have 93 octane in your system?

1) On the hiboost kit I just drilled a hole and used the supplied fitting.

2)No, they cover the engine while the head is off to keep dirt or debris for falling in.

3) Teflon tape, thread locker, oil pan gasket material, liquid teflon sealant.

4)Just to be safe you should run any 89 octane out and fill up with 91, or 93
depending on location before the install. As an added precaution I put some octane booster in though it really isn't needed.

 

[bazooka joe]

i had one welded in from friend

i didn't cover the oil pan area, had the car in a pretty clean garage

oil pan gasket material, bought at any auto store. you may also need hi temp silcone for the turbo to downpipe

i'm hoping to start my car today, i'll use octane booster to about a half filled tank, then dump a couple of gallons in after to stir it up a bit

 

[Murda]

Any recommended models? Or, would it be safe to just ask for on that is iridium and one heat range colder than the stock p5's.

What is everyone using?

 

[bazooka joe]

just spoke with Beau about this today...i believe it a BKR6E?

 

[Mr. Win]

Does that mean its almost done joe?

 

[bazooka joe]

Does that mean its almost done joe?

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! finally, home stretch!!!(flash)

 

[glyph]

Good thread. I will be posting tips as I encounter them in my MAM SS install thread.

 

[Matthew]

cool...good luck.

 

[glyph]

Thanks, I'll need it.

 

[changedman]

the MAM "install" guide is here:
http://gr8mp3.com/downloads/maminstall.zip
It is a DOC file. if u need more help, post

 

[glyph]

Found it already, printed it out, thanks! However, it turns out my bumper is different from yours. I do not have anything in front of the radiator other than a plastic bumper. That is the only thing I can mount the IC to, so I may have an issue.