thinking of going rotor

[Grip & Drift]

well 2 nights ago.. the unfortunate happened... i spun my beautiful MR2 and slammed it into a high curb... causing me to bend the front drivers side wheel, and causing the rear drives side wheel to lose about a 7 inch section.
some of the suspension is bent... and the power steering is not working.. and it looks like it might have a bit of frame damage. so im thinking of selling it. (damn i loved that car.. 91 and only 54k on it) and grabbing a RX-7. I always have loved Rotary cars. and im torn between the FC and the FD.
if i pick up a FC, ill probably de-interior it and roll cage it out. and bring it to about 300-350 RWHP.
but damn i love the lines of the FD... such a georgeous car.. but i heard its a bit more problem matic than the older turbo II.

im stuck hehe.
just seeking some advice. =)

 

[Matthew]

well 2 nights ago.. the unfortunate happened... i spun my beautiful MR2 and slammed it into a high curb... causing me to bend the front drivers side wheel, and causing the rear drives side wheel to lose about a 7 inch section.
some of the suspension is bent... and the power steering is not working.. and it looks like it might have a bit of frame damage. so im thinking of selling it. (damn i loved that car.. 91 and only 54k on it) and grabbing a RX-7. I always have loved Rotary cars. and im torn between the FC and the FD.
if i pick up a FC, ill probably de-interior it and roll cage it out. and bring it to about 300-350 RWHP.
but damn i love the lines of the FD... such a georgeous car.. but i heard its a bit more problem matic than the older turbo II.

im stuck hehe.
just seeking some advice. =)

im certainly not an expert, but i had a Turbo II...wouldnt pass emissions, injectors leaking, exhaust leak etc etc. 88 with 70k miles or so. fun car to drive, but on top of all that had electrical problems. i dont know if that was a bad case or if they were all like that.

 

[8k RPMs]

anytime you go with an older turbo car, there's that much more to break, and that much more $$$ to fix. I'm not sure about the 2nd gen, but for the 3rd gen, then best advice i've heard (and experienced) is that you can only afford one is if you have a daily driver and have enough cash to afford a new engine and install (like 4500), cause they can go "POP" very easily. you can do a lot to make them reliable (many people who keep up on maintance get over 100k miles with no problems), but unless you maintain it and pay $$$ for the right mods, she'll leave you in a second . . .

for more info, the best place is www.rx7club.com they cover all 3 gens VERY well. any technical help you need, you'll find. plus their classifieds are so well done and the members are so well connected that many of the cars on the forum have reviews by people who have seen/ridden/worked on them and full critiques of the right price and what the car needs.

another board is www.nopistons.com this caters more towards the ricer crowd, but still has some good info.

good luck

chris
'93 RX-7 R1 CYM
'04 Infiniti G35c

 

[Grip & Drift]

Thanks alot guys.. ill check the stuff out! =)

 

[Pkay]

If you're going for 300+ HP you're not going to be on a stock engine. At that point you're not dealing with "problematic" issues but more so normal love and care. It's not so much problematic if you plan on tuning it..... it's just not a push over. You'll have to learn the car and thats where most people give up.

Regardless you're dealing with 10+ year old cars so FD or FC there will be normal issues. To be honest you'll want an FD. There might be more issues involved with getting it to 300-350hp but it could run that reliably. I'd guess that running an FC at 300-350hp would be a lot less reliable than an FD at that point.


Then again if you're looking for a rotary daily driver you'll want to buy an rx8

 

[Mazdaspeedgirl]

If it ain't a rotor, it aint a motor!

Glad to see another person getting into rotaries. Once you learn how to spin em high, you'll know why we love em so.

Are you wanting an FC because they are less expensive, or would you look into an 8? I highly recommend the 8. (drive)

 

[8k RPMs]

PKay -
good s*** dude. the 3rd gen's support way more power, stock or otherwise. I've got 327 to the wheels (410ish to the flywheel) on a chassis dyno (so it's a non-bs # with load figured in) with stock engine, no porting, and stock turbos and wastegate running 14.5 psi of boost (of course, i have a new fuel system, custom v-mount intercooler, etc. etc.) and it runs (while knocking on wood) as reliable as can be. no FC can do that much with the stock internals. And PKay's tuning point is VERY well taken . . . spend the 800-1500 and go to a place that knows RX-7s and hop on a chassis dyno w/wideband O2 sensor to tune it properly, across the fuel band, not just WOT. your engine (and acceleration) will thank you. And get the new ECU that your local shop knows. The best ECU in the world does 0 good if no one can work on it. Stick with A'pexi's PowerFC if you can b/c that has the most support. The AEM is much cooler with more features, but not many know how to tune it. Gotham Racing in texas build a uscc car with aem and can tune well. If you're a guru, the microtech, or even better the Haltec is the s***, but will cost a lot to install all the new sensors and tune. i stress again, get what your shop knows and 7 owner's in the area know. they are better than most shops and are usually more than willing to help you work on stuff (i had one board member travel 2 hours to help me with the v-mount setup). and NEVER take a 3rd gen to a mazda dealership . . . trust me and others on the boards due to our experiences (and lack of money as a result).

Mazdaspeedgirl-
i'm glad there are more chicks into 7's . . . usally it's dudes only and the girls tend toward supras and 'ludes . . . but the '8 doesn't have the power or torque yet . . . but makes up for it on the twisties and in the warranty. but for the same money, you can get a fully built 7 that has more than 60k into it . . . if you're ever in the bay area, they're a dude with easily 80k into his car (once you figure in labor) that he's letting go for like 25 - 30k . . . every dollar you put into your car, expect .25 to .50 cents back when you sell.

anyway, thus endeth the sermon, and someone else take my place on the soap box.


chris
'93 RX-7 R1 CYM
'04 Infiniti G35c

 

[Pkay]

^ on that same note the 3rd gen in my sig is my girlfriends, she allows me to play at times with it


theres something excessively attractive about waking up at 10am to go down to your garage and see your girlfriend is elbow deep in the UIM of a car 99% of paid mechanics couldnt find the sparkplugs on.

 

[alexlitov]

^^^^

(pics)

 

[Grip & Drift]

If it ain't a rotor, it aint a motor!

Glad to see another person getting into rotaries. Once you learn how to spin em high, you'll know why we love em so.

Are you wanting an FC because they are less expensive, or would you look into an 8? I highly recommend the 8. (drive)

I actually love the way the FC looks to be honest. its got a real calssic design.. and i was planning on buying one anyway.. it just mnight happen sooner now

the RX-7 like my MR2 wont be my Daily driver.. thats why i have the MSP.

I test drove the RX-8.. and i dident care for it... i have driven RX-7's before and i loved them. the sound of a rotary is enough to make me all giddy LOL.

anyways... if a FD would be a better bet.. ill go a FD. i like them both. and it seems FD's are more easier to get as well.

 

[BinaryRotary]

I actually love the way the FC looks to be honest. its got a real calssic design.. and i was planning on buying one anyway.. it just mnight happen sooner now

the RX-7 like my MR2 wont be my Daily driver.. thats why i have the MSP.

I test drove the RX-8.. and i dident care for it... i have driven RX-7's before and i loved them. the sound of a rotary is enough to make me all giddy LOL.

anyways... if a FD would be a better bet.. ill go a FD. i like them both. and it seems FD's are more easier to get as well.

There were only a little over 14,000 FD-3S Rx-7's sold between 93 and 95. 93 was a very problematic year and I'd advise getting only a car from 94-95 if you want more reliability. Also, stay away from any kind of slush box 3rd gen, they're junk, even the tranni's with a hold button.

You'll want to perform your reliability modifications as soon as possible. Heres a list from rx7.org

Reliability Mods For All Cars

Replace Pre-Catalytic Converter (pre-cat) With Down Pipe - The pre-catalytic converter is attached to the turbos. It tends to clog up and hold excess heat in the turbos and engine compartment. It can also break up and clog/destroy the main catalytic converter leading to failed emission tests and costly repairs.

Install a Boost Gauge - You need one to monitor the health of the turbo control system. The RX-7 has a tendency to blow vacuum hoses lose and cause the control system to malfunction. With a boost gauge you can verify a normal boost pattern.

Replace/Eliminate the Air Separation Tank (AST) - It's made of plastic and has a tendency to crack and dump all your coolant causing overheating and engine damage. There are several after-market metal tanks available for around $150. You can also just eliminate the tank for around $50, see the AST Elimination How To.

Replace Vacuum Hoses - They bake in the hot engine compartment, become brittle, crack or come loose and cause boost control problems. See Vacuum Hose Replacement How To.

Modify the Stock Air Box - Prevents the intake from pulling hot air backwards through the intercooler which can lead to detonation and engine damage.

Upgrade the Front Anti-Roll Bar Mount - The stock mount tends to crack. Several after-market mount reinforcers are available. This is especially important if you upgrade the stock anti-roll bar, race or Autocross.

Replace Rubber Intake Hose Couplers - The rubber couplers between the Y-pipe and the crossover intake tube crack and leak. Replace it with silicone hose couplers, or better yet replace the Y-pipe and crossover tube with the upgraded Japanese RX-7 part.

Disable the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve - If it sticks open you'll have to replace it, disable it and it will stay closed.

Clean and Lube the Antenna - The antenna retraction mechanism in the 3rd gen RX-7 fails at a pretty high rate. You can delay its failure by cleaning and lubing it while its extended. I used WD-40 to clean it and then wiped it down with some light 3M oil (mine hasn't failed yet).

Reliability Mods For Modified Cars

Install an Air/Fuel Gauge - As you modify your engine it will run leaner. If it gets too lean, detonation can occur which damages the rotor's apex seals. A complete engine rebuild is required to replace the apex seals. Install an A/F gauge so you can monitor how lean/rich your engine is running. AutoMeter has a nice 20 LED gauge for $50.

Install a Water Temperature Gauge - The stock water temp gauge does not work well enough to monitor the engine's temperature. The gauge will show normal temperature until it is too late. Overheating the RX-7 can be fatal for the engine because the side seals can be damaged by excessive heat. The damaged seals allow coolant to pass into the combustion chambers. A total engine rebuild is necessary to repair the seals.

Install an After-Market Knock Sensor - If detonation begins to occur, an upgraded knock sensor can retard your timing and prevent apex seal damage. See http://www.safeguard.bizland.com for J&S's knock sensor.

Upgrade the Radiator - A modified car puts heavier demands on the cooling system. If your after-market water temperature gauge shows high temperatures, upgrade the radiator. See the Install Racing Radiator How To.

Upgrade the Intercooler - The stock intercooler is woefully inadequate. If you want to increase boost above stock levels you need to improve air charge cooling. Inadequate cooling can lead to detonation and apex seal damage.


Hopefully this helps.

 

[BinaryRotary]

Oh, forgot to add. If you want a 3rd Gen with a good body and a good motor you're going to be spending at least 15k.

Heres some buyer tips.

Be sure to check out www.rx7.org One of THE best sites on FD's.

A Word about 3rd Generation RX-7 Reliability

Many people ask me about purchasing a 93-95 (3rd Gen) RX-7 as an only, daily driven car. These cars are not known for their reliability and they are absolutely scary in any amount of snow. Many, many people have had to replace their engines well before 100,000 miles. And an engine overhaul is expensive ($5000 or more with labor) because the engine must be completely removed from the car. The turbo control system is complex and prone to problems. Repair and upkeep can be expensive because the cars are rare and most Mazda dealers are not familiar with them. I've heard hundreds of horror stories from people that had minor problems that were diagnosed by their dealer as something much more expensive such as "need new turbos" when only a vacuum hose was lose, or "need a new pre-catalytic converter" when the problem had nothing to do with the exhaust.

I can't really recommend a 3rd gen for someone that doesn't have the ability or desire to learn how to maintain it themselves unless you are lucky enough (and rich enough) to be near one of the rotary specialty shops (PFS, Pettit, Mostly Mazda, Rotary performance, KD Rotary, etc.)

Rob Robinette



<HR>The Test Drive


There are three things you must do before you buy a used 3rd gen RX-7 (93-95). First, take a thorough test drive. Hook up a boost gauge and verify a standard 10 psi boost to 4500 rpm then a drop to around 8 psi, then 10 psi boost in second gear. Its easy to temporarily hook up a boost gauge to the intake manifold (it has a built in nipple with a rubber cap) and then tape the gauge to the windshield.

There are engine control problems that will only show up when the car is fully warmed up. Look for smooth engine operation during light throttle and full throttle acceleration. Look for a "stumble" at 3,000 RPM under light acceleration. If the car does stumble you need to realize it may be impossible to fix this problem. There are some current owners that cannot eliminate that 3,000 RPM hesitation but many others have solved the problem by improving the engine to frame and battery to frame grounds. If the car doesn't run acceptably well then don't buy it unless the owner brings it up to your standards before you buy it. Don't assume that new spark plugs or a tune-up will make the car run right.

After the test drive, restart the car after about 30 minutes of cool-down. The car should start easily and the idle should quickly stabilize at around 800 RPM. If it doesn't the engine bay may be too hot and causing vapor lock in the fuel lines.

The second thing you need to do before purchasing the car is have the engine compression checked. This is really the only way to determine if the engine is healthy. Many RX-7 owners have had to replace their engines around 60,000 miles so spend the money and get it tested (see the Compression Test How To).

Finally, if you do buy the car see the Reliability Modifications to make the car a little more bulletproof.

Rob Robinette



<HR>Thinking about buying an RX-7 but have heard horror stories?


By Tom Jelly

The 3rd gen RX-7 is a great car, but it does have some problems. These problems by themselves are not serious in nature, but if not addressed can lead to catastrophic mechanical failures that may damage the reputation of the marquee as well as put a sizeable dent in your wallet. You must remember that this is a high performance vehicle and requires maintenance commensurate with its capabilities. I will address each item in order of importance, with the most critical items last.

The RX-7 has always been a high performance sports car as each new generation was introduced. With performance often exceeding competition that was priced far in excess (or for that matter, a multiple) of its purchase price, there are some areas where sacrifices were made to save money, while developments in the high performance aspects of the vehicle were well represented. The least critical of these areas are interior trim. The black console, door and dash panels were, on the 93 cars at least, coated with material that would not hold up. Many of these early cars had these panels replaced under warranty.

Some early cars also had exterior paint problems, where the color coat did not adhere properly to the primer. By now most of those cars have been touched up or completely repainted, so don't disqualify a repainted car as a candidate for purchase.

The passenger door handles are very fragile, often broken and cost $250 to replace, but can be repaired relatively easily.

There were 3 recalls on these cars- brakes (vacuum hose modification), new (high temp) fuel lines and cooling system (pressure cap and fan control module). These should already have been performed by now.

The inadequate ground wires between the engine and body should be supplemented with heavy duty cable. In some cars this will remedy the 3000 rpm hesitation that occurs when not fully up to operating temperature.

There are some vehicles with 5th gear synchro problems. The use of Redline oil should prevent the problem from developing in the first place. If not, Mostly Mazda has a spring kit that will help alleviate the problem. The 5th gear synchro may also be cracked if there is a grind every time 5th is selected.

Proper (read- not too tight) belt tension is essential for water pump ($200-600) longevity. With stock cooling systems, there is a specific procedure for bleeding air from the system that must be followed when refilling or flushing.

The Mazda dealer service department may be the greatest threat to these 3rd gen cars. DO NOT go to a dealer for service unless you get a recommendation FROM ANOTHER RX-7 owner first. Many dealers are not properly trained to service these cars and do more damage than repairs, but there are enough dealers and independent shops that specialize in this particular vehicle that service should not be a major problem.

These cars, when fitted with just a few bolt on modifications, are capable of tremendous horsepower gains, but these modifications must not be lightly undertaken- proper fuel enrichment to accommodate intake and exhaust flow improvements MUST be provided. If you are purchasing a modified car, make sure fuel enrichment has been taken into account.

Remember, for a combined total of under $600 in reliability upgrades (if you do most of the work yourself), you can have a bulletproof rotary rocket capable of embarrassing some very exotic machinery. There is no need to be afraid of the car. It just requires proper preparation, that although is not required for you basic Honda, will put a huge smile on your face when you put it through its paces. As you surf the web, take a look at the enthusiasm you see in the (many) RX-7 web sites you'll see. Racers, engineers and other technically oriented types are HIGHLY represented among the ranks of owners. People love the car for a reason, and these people wouldn't be so dedicated to the model if it wasn't so special.

People keep asking me how to purge their cooling system. To purge cooing system: fill the passenger side overflow tank to the full line on the dipstick. Fill the black expansion tank near the IC to the top. fill the water pump mounted filler to the top. Start the engine and turn on the heat till it blows warm. Shut off the car and let it cool. *Remove the water pump filler cap. if the level dropped more than 1 inch, remove the cap on the black expansion tank and fill it to the top. (if less than 1 inch, fill water pump filler cap to the top, restart the car w/ heat still on, now you should be OK, just recheck every day or 2 until the level stabilizes). Replace the cap and top off the water pump filler cap. Restart the car w/ heat still on. Let it cool again. If the level drops at the water pump cap again repeat everything after * until it the level there stays within 3/4 inch from the top. If you can't get it to stay topped off after 3 iterations:

Replace coolant overflow system w/ this setup: coolant_tank.htm



<HR>Shopping Around


When looking for a used Rx-7, it is especially necessary to be patient and discriminating. Do not be surprised if you look at a dozen RX-7's before finding a good example. When it comes to mileage, the lower the better. There are far too many ways for careless owners to abuse and neglect the rx7. Oil changes should have been conducted regularly at every 3,000 miles or less. The car must never have overheated in any circumstance. Further, there are many examples of used rx7s on the market that have been "ruthlessly thrashed" on the race circuit or damaged by an unexpected off road excursion. There are three recall notices that must be done to any perspective rx7 is not completed already. The first is a coolant recall which replaces parts of the cooling system (water pump seal, thermostat gasket, upper radiator hose, etc.) with stronger and more heat resistant materials. The second recall involves the braking system and replaces a check valve and hose leading to the brake booster. Without this simple recall, the valve may stick under certain conditions and hinder power-assisted braking. The third and final notice that will need to be taken care of is the fuel system recall which replaces certain fuel lines under the intake manifold with lines made from material more resilient to the extremely high levels of under-hood heat associated with rotary-powered vehicles. One can also call Mazda's Custom Service line at (800) 222 5500. With the vehicle's VIN, they will be able to determine which , if any, recalls have been applied to the particular car. Unperformed recalls can be taken care of, free of charge, by any Mazda dealership.

There are a few more problems typically associated with the early third generation RX-7's. Most apparent is Mazda's less-than-perfect painting process. Premature paint chipping is usually isolated to the car's hood and the rocker panels aft of the rear wheels. This problem was eventually solved when a more traditional panting technique was applied at the factory. Another aesthetically challenged area of interest is the RX-7's plastic interior that has been known to peel terribly over time. This problem was likewise fixed by the factory. Finally, when shutting the drivers side door, don't be surprised if it takes a good slam to close fully. The doors on RX-7s are notorious for their high effort requirements. Then again, anyone to weak to operate the door on a high performance sports car is too [much of a pussy] drive one, 'nuff said The Test Drive. Perhaps the most revealing analysis of the RX-7 will be conducted during the test drive. If the car is started when cold, the engine should immediately jump to 3000 rpm. Mazda refers to this function as the "accelerated Warm-up system". You should think of it as cruel and unusual punishment. Gently 'blipping' the throttle should drop the engine speed to 1500 rpm. After a few minutes of conservative driving, the idle should settle between 750 and 950 rpm. If the car has very low mileage (less than 20,000) the engine may idle slightly higher due to a "mileage switch" that is activated during the extended break-in period., Another unusual quirk of the car is a noticeable fuel-related hesitation at 3,000 rpm when the engine is cold. This is completely normal and should lessen dramatically as the car warms up. It is also very important to remember that with rotaries, like conventional piston engines, most internal wear and tear occurs during cold operation. During this time, it is absolutely imperative that driving at high rpm or under boost should be avoided at all costs. Once the car is up to operating temperatures, the real evaluation begins. Unfortunately, a stock RX7 is not equipped with a boost gauge making boost testing more of a "seat of the pants" experience. It may not be too unreasonable to bring a boost gauge and vacuum line and tap it into the small nipple on the passenger side of the intake manifold before the test drive. The vacuum line could then be fed under the hood and through the window to the gauge that can be taped to the dash

To check the boost pattern, cruise in 3rd gear at 35. As the road ahead clears, accelerate under wide open throttle. Boost levels should quickly spool to 10 to 12 psi. Just above 4500 rpm, the boost level should drop briefly to approximately 8 psi and then slowly build up to 10 psi by redline. If boost levels are unusually low or erratic, there could be problems with the complicated turbo control system of the turbos themselves. Listen carefully for knock under prolonged boost [heh heh]. Knock can be caused by running inexpensive, low octane gas or by lean run conditions caused by clogged injector or dirty fuel filters. If detonation is detected, lift off the throttle immediately and look for cars elsewhere. In a rotary, if you hear a knock, the motor is already likely to be damaged. A characteristic common with rotaries is their lack of low end torque. If the engine speed drops below 2k, the car is essentially crippled. However, right around 2500, the turbos quickly come to life and things start to happen,, Upon first drives, the car may feel "jumpy" when tooled about around town. Eventually, the driver will get used accustomed to the unique throttle management required by the power plant. RX-7s are also known to exhibit a chronic hood latch squeak that can drive some owners into fits of frustration. This noise can be fixed easily, as we will see in this project series. Clunking noises from the suspension, on the other hand, are not so readily ameliorated. Cars manufactured before May 31, 92 (check drivers side door jam) come equipped with an annoyingly noisy upper a-arm bushing. This can be replaced with an updated version, but at a remarkably high labor cost. The trans should shift precisely and smoothly. It is not uncommon for rx7s to develop 5th gear synchro damage, typically cause by a botched 2nd to 3rd gear shift. If damage is present, shifting quickly from third to 5th gear (without letting the engine speed reduce) will result in a terrible grinding sound. Repairing a 5th gear synchro is very expensive since it involves removing and disassembling the tranny. Finally, check for warped rotors, cracked wheels, engine leaks and the typical areas involved when inspecting a used car. whew,.. ohh dangit, L there's more It is also a good idea to check the water temp gauge toward the end of the test drive,. The needle should point slightly below the middle temp range., Also critical to the longevity of the motor and turbo is a nice cool down period of at least thirty seconds. Spirited driving on the track can require up to 5 minutes of cool down to let the iron and aluminum components of the engine recover from their thermal expansions. It is also normal to hear the boiling and bubbling sounds from the engine after the ignition has been turned off.

 

[FC3s Boy]

get a FC, i just picked up another turboII for $200.00 to add to my rotary collection.
fc= cheap and fun

 

[8k RPMs]

and don't get an Air/Fuel gauge unless it's a wideband (5-wire). narrow band o2 sensors (greddy, autometer, etc. wired to the stock o2 sensor) won't be anywhere near accurate and do nothing but look pretty (or distracting, imo)

 

[Grip & Drift]

wow.. awesome info! Thanks a TON guys!

looks like i might have to do some looking around when i get back from Europe in September. i can get either one... not really worring about the price. im leaning towards the FD.. sorta.. cause its such an awesome car.. but yet the FC would be alot cheaper.. and could pick up in any condition really.. so it would be a true project car

oh and about the A/F meters.. i hate them... nothing can replace a EGT

once again thanks alot for the info here... ill let you know how it turnes out =)

 

[Lt. Dan]

Sticky please!!!!!!! STICKY!!!!!

Dan

 

[sinful7]

anytime you go with an older turbo car, there's that much more to break, and that much more $$$ to fix. I'm not sure about the 2nd gen, but for the 3rd gen, then best advice i've heard (and experienced) is that you can only afford one is if you have a daily driver and have enough cash to afford a new engine and install (like 4500), cause they can go "POP" very easily. you can do a lot to make them reliable (many people who keep up on maintance get over 100k miles with no problems), but unless you maintain it and pay $$$ for the right mods, she'll leave you in a second . . .

for more info, the best place is www.rx7club.com they cover all 3 gens VERY well. any technical help you need, you'll find. plus their classifieds are so well done and the members are so well connected that many of the cars on the forum have reviews by people who have seen/ridden/worked on them and full critiques of the right price and what the car needs.

another board is www.nopistons.com this caters more towards the ricer crowd, but still has some good info.

good luck

chris
'93 RX-7 R1 CYM
'04 Infiniti G35c

The BEST place to go is http://www.rx7club.com. Everyone there has a set of wrenches and (obviously) an internet connection, so that place is packed full of mechanics. They'll also be able to help you swap a V8 into the FD after the motor blows.
Stay away from http://www.nopistons.com - They only have these nutjobs that encourage all kinds modifications - from low budget wheel decisions to doing your own streetport to carbon fiber hoods to big single turbos. But they'll never encourage you to swap a V8 into your RX7 (pissed) . Those guys are a bunch of retards anyway. And it's not like they have some of the best rotary tuners in the world posting on the privately funded forum anyhow.
Don't even bother signing up at nopistons. Just go use the 'search' function at the RX7Club.

-Steve
'93 MBM Touring
'92 Olds Bravada
'99 Performance Bicycle
'96 Toro
'81 Legs

 

[PrincipleOfEvil]

The BEST place to go is http://www.rx7club.com. Everyone there has a set of wrenches and (obviously) an internet connection, so that place is packed full of mechanics. They'll also be able to help you swap a V8 into the FD after the motor blows.
Stay away from http://www.nopistons.com - They only have these nutjobs that encourage all kinds modifications - from low budget wheel decisions to doing your own streetport to carbon fiber hoods to big single turbos. But they'll never encourage you to swap a V8 into your RX7 (pissed) . Those guys are a bunch of retards anyway. And it's not like they have some of the best rotary tuners in the world posting on the privately funded forum anyhow.
Don't even bother signing up at nopistons. Just go use the 'search' function at the RX7Club.

-Steve
'93 MBM Touring
'92 Olds Bravada
'99 Performance Bicycle
'96 Toro
'81 Legs

Oh yeah, you don't want to go to NoPistons. Those guys don't know what they are talking about at all. They are just full of guys that really know what they are talking about, can give you useful info, and even help you plan out what you want to do with your rotary. Hell, why even go to a place that would want to do that for you huh? ClubRX7 are just guys that don't even live up to rotary performance. If they drop in a V8, they think they are hardcore guys that did the "impossible." You want to go to that.

Have fun kid.

 

[NAVILESRX8]

Nopistons.com is full of losers....they actually like driving their cars on tracks and stuff. What a bunch of morons......everybody knows that sitting by a phat ride with APC stickers and a mad tite F40 wing(oh and nawssss) is the only way to go.....the rest is a waste of money. Yo...get the FC...I've seen it in InitialD....that thing can driiiiffffft.......

 

[FC3s Boy]

who are you 2 newbs, I would say the rx7club is waaay more ricer than NP, please if you don't know what you talking about keep your mouth shut-
chris @ spd racing
2002 protege5
1988 rx7 turboII
1986 rx7 n/a
1985 rx7 gsl
1979 rx7