The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

Where and what time, son?

He and his GF are going to be at my house around 6. You're more than welcome to come along, Godfather. :)

We still need to decide on a location but I really dig that new pizza place down the street from me, New York to Chicago.
 
iirc the endlinks are the same. No need to change unless you want to.

that is a tick incorrect, ms3 endlinks are 12mm, and mz3 endlinks are 10mm

while mz3 endlinks will fit in an ms3 bar. i recommend a spacer if you feel the need to run them, so the bolts dont rattle and mar up the threading...
but if he is in need of replacing the endlinks anyway might as well just spring for the ms3 links from the begining
 
On the front bar? I know the rear bar is 12 mm, I had a shop make bushings for my rear bar.
 
That would be cool, I'm going to see if I can do that. By the way, what's the link to donate to your charity ride?

James Iorfida - Bike MS Pedal to the Point 2012

I only need $15 to reach my goal! Ride is next weekend. I've ridden over 1,000 miles so far this year and dropped 20 pounds. It is so addicting to me. I literally hate myself for doing it when I'm out there suffering up a climb (lots of swearing and yelling) but once you get home and plop down on the couch, the slow burn is all worth it...

I'll let you guys know what happens with the cycling race at MidOhio. It is a 25 mile race, so about 11 laps. It sounds like a unique event at a race track. And the elevation changes are going to suck around Madness...

Thanks all!
 
We were wondering where you've been, Chippy. But congrats on loosing weight and getting buff! That would be sweet to ride on Mid-Ohio.
 
Chippy, the last time I saw you you didn't have 20 pounds that could be lost. lol! I need to get on the ball and get my donation in for you and Nate.
 
that is a tick incorrect, ms3 endlinks are 12mm, and mz3 endlinks are 10mm

while mz3 endlinks will fit in an ms3 bar. i recommend a spacer if you feel the need to run them, so the bolts dont rattle and mar up the threading...
but if he is in need of replacing the endlinks anyway might as well just spring for the ms3 links from the begining

I most likely will since they're at 96k and will probably strip out once I remove them. I know that when I do the rear bar those will definitely need to be replacing. I'll probably do a spacer and get some for the regular 3 since they are a hell of a lot cheaper than MS3.
 
Rock auto is a perfect name, because their prices rock! I always compare parts store prices to rock autos. Have you upgraded your rear bar Nick? You will need to and I would say go aftermarket and bypass the speed3 rear bar.
 
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I think by the end of it all the only that would be original is the VIN#

Haha....hey, restorations to that extent HAVE been done!

Maybe like you said, get it to be a decent driver, then keep an eye out for a nicer shell to swap everything over into.



While everyone's so chatty today, let me pose this situation and get some opinions...

Between the baby, new job opportunity, and a move or 2 in the next few years, I'm really not going to get to work on my dad's Firebird much, if at all. So, he wants me to make one last push now to get the wheels under it so it's easier to move around. My situation is this...

Either way, the sub-frame needs to be built in order to get the front wheels on, and it also needs stripped down and painted, along with the rest of the suspension components. I'm just not sure if I should clean it all up and paint it now? I don't want it to turn to s*** after years worth of dust from sitting, then all that body work dust, and wind up having to redo it anyway because it won't come clean. It would be nice to just do it once and be done with it...

Or, just throw it all together as is, and tear it all back apart down the road to clean and paint, that way it's fresh for when he starts driving it. Doesn't seem like much, but in order to assemble it all, I'd have to press in the new bushings and whatnot. I'm just not sure how easy those are to get back out? Also, assembling 43 year old, rusty, suspension components doesn't seem like fun. lol
 
It all depends on what kind of paint you are talking. If you are talking about a thick duty paint, or bed liner, then go ahead and paint now.


As for right now, Im having issues tracking down the maximum bore that my 3.0L block will take safely. I need to verify 30 thousands over will be good, or if I need to talk to my machine shop about sleeving the sucker.
 
What, the aftermarket rear bar? Isn't the point of upgrading the sway bars to improve handling? Imo an upgraded front bar needs to go with an even more upgraded rear bar to help eliminate understeer. Right? So, with that said if he goes with speed3 bars he will have upgraded bars but still have the same understeer as a speed3 more or less.
 
I say paint it now. That way it is done and won't be put together only to be taken apart to be painted and reassembled. Sounds like a lot of extra work that you may or may not have time to do later on.
 
It all depends on what kind of paint you are talking. If you are talking about a thick duty paint, or bed liner, then go ahead and paint now.

Most likely Eastwood Chassis Black. It's supposed to be pretty durable, but it's amazing how trashed a car can get while having body work done. lol
 
Yea, paint it now. You can touch up later, which will be less work than completely blasting later on and painting it then (and it could be more rusted later also)
 
What, the aftermarket rear bar? Isn't the point of upgrading the sway bars to improve handling? Imo an upgraded front bar needs to go with an even more upgraded rear bar to help eliminate understeer. Right? So, with that said if he goes with speed3 bars he will have upgraded bars but still have the same understeer as a speed3 more or less.

one thing to remember is that we have a couple hundred pounds less in the front of our cars compared to the ms3. that makes a difference too
 

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