The 2nd MS6 Build-a-Beast in the country!!!

[whooosh]

so I'm guessing no one really got the Walbro pump to work?
I never knew you aren't suppose to drop in rods/pistons to a regular motor w/o work. I thought it was an easy switch-a-rooo (with some hours of labor). I never really read how much HP to the crank our stock internals can handle? Everyone who blew 'em were just random.. or misshift . Whoosh, are you going to turn it up 28psi+ on stock internals? 'cus that would be SICK!... and I would immediately buy a GT35R.

well if you look at my dyno
I'm already running 18-19.5PSI on stock internals>no tune
what more do you want lol

28PSI...I don't see that happening but I do plan to bump it up a bit more with some other tweaks to hit the 400awhp mark

 

[BoostedSpd6]

hey look who it is....
how's the phantom Walbro in tank pump working for you so far?
please update us on that and post your pics

ur ruining this thread..

 

[mdogg]

ur ruining this thread..

lol big builds need big fuel and apparently you figured that one out right?
I think whoosh is just looking for your expert advice on MORE FUEL (yupnope)

 

[Captain KRM P5]

so I'm guessing no one really got the Walbro pump to work?
I never knew you aren't suppose to drop in rods/pistons to a regular motor w/o work. I thought it was an easy switch-a-rooo (with some hours of labor). .

you are certainly able to install new pistons into an engine if they are stock bore without doing machine work. if your motor has any real amount of miles though this is a bad idea. a good hone and cleaning at the bare minimum is recommended to ensure proper wear and tolerances on the new internals. considering you really have to pull the head, remove the oil jets, drop the crank, remove the balance shafts and seals to get new internals in, the engine is more feasible to work on when it is out of the car. and when its out of the car there is no reason not to spend the relatively small amount of money to hone, clean and check your block.

it's cool, guys don't fight...Ken doesn't like his brood up in arms
I'm flattered you guys are following me by installing a 35R now(thought)

i don't mind my guys or myself getting into a fight when its professional and justified. flamewars are a different matter altogether.

we have no choice on the GT35R as it is. the 3071R was totally shot to be honest with everyone, and part of the rebuild/upgrade included the 35 internals. we'd still run the 3071R if it hadn't grenaded.

 

[BoostedSpd6]

lol big builds need big fuel and apparently you figured that one out right?
I think whoosh is just looking for your expert advice on MORE FUEL (yupnope)

aweomse.(doughpoke

 

[jgrangers4]

Any updates???

 

[skylinemonster]

Any updates???

yes, there are some updates. we are going back to the drawing board a bit because these internal wastegates from atp are for the birds IMO. what I mean by this is I bought the gt3071r kit with the 14 psi spring and quite frankly it just wasn't really 14 psi. we hooked a regulator up to it and crack pressure (the point at which the gate starts to open) where you want to set sPr on my tru boost gauge was 10 psi in itself and the gate did not fully open until 23 psi. this caused boost to keep climping and not stay in its comfort zone, unless you want to set boost relatively low and spike where you want to be. all in all it was inconsistent. So I emailed atp and asked for documentation, pdf's, etc. and they said they wanted a serial number on the gate, so luckily I went through 1000's of pictures until I found one I had. They then emailed me back stating they didn't have any info. So, I ordered their 7 psi actuator thinking ok.... this is half of the 14psi they claim I have, so let me go at least half way and my gate should fully open at 13 psi or so. NOPE, THE 7 PSI GATE FULLY OPENS AT 20 PSI. If you guys don't understand, this will be hard when you try to tune for 20-22 psi.

Anyhow, I have come up with a very cool solution. I am going to get a protege garage tubular turbo manifold, and modify it to have a Tial 44mm v-band flange so I can run an external gate via v-band and run a dump tube next to my downpipe. Boost will hold, it will look sick, and it will sound amazing when the gate opens. ordering the manifold tomorrow. keep you guys updated......

 

[2.0t03speed]

dude thats not the wastegate accuator thats the ******* tru-boost i hate that pos. I had it on my msp its one of the jewest things ive ever tried to tune in my life. Sold it to a friend of mine that thought he could tune it better then i did and he ended up worse lol. Its not a internal problem with the wastegate its the actual truboost it self. try turning off the solenoid on the truboost and just using it as a gauge and then see what psi the wategate opens at.

 

[skylinemonster]

dude thats not the wastegate accuator thats the ******* tru-boost i hate that pos. I had it on my msp its one of the jewest things ive ever tried to tune in my life. Sold it to a friend of mine that thought he could tune it better then i did and he ended up worse lol. Its not a internal problem with the wastegate its the actual truboost it self. try turning off the solenoid on the truboost and just using it as a gauge and then see what psi the wategate opens at.

we already went down that road. it is the actuator, you can map it's movement identical on the dyno to what the regulator reads. your gate should fully open about half of what you want your target boost to be.

LET ME ALSO CLARIFY FOR EVERYONE ELSE. I USED A REGULATOR DIRECTLY ON THE GATE TO DETERMINE OPENING RATES, NO SOLENOID IN THE EQUATION, AND YES I'VE USED THE ACTUATOR ONLY AND BOOST FOLLOWS WHAT THE REGULATOR READS.

 

[2.0t03speed]

ok yes but the solenoid on the truboost is whats telling it when to open correct? becuase its only a 7 psi gate and your trying to get it to hold 20 therefor the solenoid on the tru boost is going to tell it when to open. Fix the truboost crack pressure setting and you will fix your problem

 

[2.0t03speed]

so basically your trying to tell me you got 2 brand new wastegate accuators from atp and one was 7psi and the other was 14 and they both wouldnt open till 20 psi somethings wrong

 

[skylinemonster]

ok yes but the solenoid on the truboost is whats telling it when to open correct? becuase its only a 7 psi gate and your trying to get it to hold 20 therefor the solenoid on the tru boost is going to tell it when to open. Fix the truboost crack pressure setting and you will fix your problem

Buddy, you are not understanding me, I have no solenoid in the equation. 7 psi is not when the SO CALLED 7 PSI SPRING opens. It opens at 20 psi. Their actuators are not following their documentation. If you have a gt3071r kit, hook an air hose up directly to the diaphram, with a regulator and read how much psi it takes to fully extend the arm which opens the flapper. It takes 20 psi on this atp setup.

 

[skylinemonster]

so basically your trying to tell me you got 2 brand new wastegate accuators from atp and one was 7psi and the other was 14 and they both wouldnt open till 20 psi somethings wrong

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[2.0t03speed]

ok just for clarifacation the aem tru boost uses a boost solenoid to adjust boost levels. so are you just hooking it up to a tank setting the regulator to 20 psi and just shooting the air in there or are you gradually adding pressure with a hand pump or something else?

 

[skylinemonster]

ok just for clarifacation the aem tru boost uses a boost solenoid to adjust boost levels. so are you just hooking it up to a tank setting the regulator to 20 psi and just shooting the air in there or are you gradually adding pressure with a hand pump or something else?

?????? yes air comes from a tank, and I can variably increase the psi with any pre 21st century regulator a single psi at a time starting from 1 psi. when i get to 10, she starts moving, when i get to 20 she is fully extended.

 

[2.0t03speed]

i was asking becuase some ppl do it with air compressors others do it with hand pumps. just wondering what you did and if you gradually increased it or just shot it all in at one time

 

[jcgemt2003]

Can I ask why your only tuning for 20-22psi? You should tune for 24-25 and problem solved. There's already proof that with the upgrade CDFP there is enough fuel. The map can be clamped.

 

[4DRHTRD]

The ATP wga "hold" more boost with less back pressure on the system. I had the same issue with the atp 15 psi wga but whoosh has had good luck with the 7 psi one.

 

[FORZDA 1]

yes, there are some updates. we are going back to the drawing board a bit because these internal wastegates from atp are for the birds IMO. what I mean by this is I bought the gt3071r kit with the 14 psi spring and quite frankly it just wasn't really 14 psi. we hooked a regulator up to it and crack pressure (the point at which the gate starts to open) where you want to set sPr on my tru boost gauge was 10 psi in itself and the gate did not fully open until 23 psi. this caused boost to keep climping and not stay in its comfort zone, unless you want to set boost relatively low and spike where you want to be. all in all it was inconsistent. So I emailed atp and asked for documentation, pdf's, etc. and they said they wanted a serial number on the gate, so luckily I went through 1000's of pictures until I found one I had. They then emailed me back stating they didn't have any info. So, I ordered their 7 psi actuator thinking ok.... this is half of the 14psi they claim I have, so let me go at least half way and my gate should fully open at 13 psi or so. NOPE, THE 7 PSI GATE FULLY OPENS AT 20 PSI. If you guys don't understand, this will be hard when you try to tune for 20-22 psi.

Anyhow, I have come up with a very cool solution. I am going to get a protege garage tubular turbo manifold, and modify it to have a Tial 44mm v-band flange so I can run an external gate via v-band and run a dump tube next to my downpipe. Boost will hold, it will look sick, and it will sound amazing when the gate opens. ordering the manifold tomorrow. keep you guys updated......

I don't think you're running a valid test. Follow me here... The WG passage and the "flapper" are the same item for any level of boost wanted on the 3071, so the WG must flow enough air (exhaust) to control boost all the way up to the max the turbo can flow. If you run WG only, the boost output will likely settle at ~15psi for the 15 psi WGA. It may only take 5-10mm of flapper opening to achieve it. If the WG flapper were fully open at your 15 psi input, the 3071 WG could not control boost at 22+ psi. Your boost controller must be adjusted to hit the actual level of boost you want to run. My theory...

 

[snooky]

dude thats not the wastegate accuator thats the ******* tru-boost i hate that pos. I had it on my msp its one of the jewest things ive ever tried to tune in my life. Sold it to a friend of mine that thought he could tune it better then i did and he ended up worse lol. Its not a internal problem with the wastegate its the actual truboost it self. try turning off the solenoid on the truboost and just using it as a gauge and then see what psi the wategate opens at.

Im hoping the term "jewest" was a typo, if so please correct it, if not this forum does not tolerate that type of language. thank you~