TCS and Stability Control need an off switch!!!

It's actually quite useful if you are stuck. You can turn it off and let the tires spin. And contrary to what I expected it didn't turn back on at 18 mph (or whatever it is) of spinnning. It's like it can sense you are stuck and just spinning your tires and it leaves it off.

Which was good, I wouldn't have gotten out without a little spin.
 
I pay $25k for a vehicle claiming to be sporty but I can't even drive it sideways in the winter when I want too! That is BS! I love the car and all but I really think these systems should be able to be turned completely off when the driver wants them to be. Anyone else feel the need to vent about this? Don't get me wrong they are awesome systems and keep the vehicle in control but I would like the option to turn it off when I want to drive 'sporty'!

The CX-7 is a F/AWD, front torque biased AWD (SOLID drive coupling to the front drive, "soft" {rubber bandish} or intermittent HARD coupling to the rear drive), and that makes it a little extra difficult to make it overstear. Jack-knifing is your only resource for that "sport". Accelerate straight ahead, quickly turn the stearing wheel opposite the direction, side, you wish the rear to "skid"/spin.

The simplest way I know for disabling VSC/PSM/DSC/etc, is to disconnect the MAF/IAT module with the engine idling, the engine will die, plug the module back in, restart the engine and be on your way.

For the next few drive cycles you will have a non-detrimental CEL and a "false"/default VSC/TC indication.
 
Another winter and yet still complaining about this stupid feature they just had to build in without a switch. I have a subaru now and love it! I'm in control of what the car is doing 100% of the time!
 
TCS switch

I found a listing on ebay for basically a relay that plugs in between the tcs plug and the switch. It sets the TCS to off by default so you have to push the switch to turn on the TCS. But...as is the story of my life....I can't find it now. I'll post the link if I can find it. The cost was $24.95 with free shipping.
 
I don't think that I would want a TCS system to be "off" by default, and certainly not the DSC, PSM or VSC system. Many newer Toyota and Lexus systems have just such a PB switch, the initial depression turns TCS off and a second sequential depression turns VSC (DSC) off.

Both come back on automatically at the next engine start.

If you want to disable TCS/DSC "on the fly" all you have to do is put a PB switch in power supply to the MAF/IAT circuit. Open, depress the PB switch, to "fault" the MAF/IAT and the engine will die due to the resulting CEL, release the PB, restart the engine and be on your way. The CEL will reset within a few drive cycles enabling the DCS/DSC functionality.

Lastly it seems to me that the CX-7 F/awd system is "stellar" enough that disabling TCS would be a useless measure. I would think that if the CX-7's F/awd system cannot move you forward you either need a tow or a set of tire chains on the rear wheels FIRST and then add the fronts only if required, the latter a RARE instant indeed IMMHO.

But then maybe you have the CX-7 FWD model and your need is therefore valid, VERY valid.
 
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I don't think that I would want a TCS system to be "off" by default, and certainly not the DSC, PSM or VSC system. Many newer Toyota and Lexus systems have just such a PB switch, the initial depression turns TCS off and a second sequential depression turns VSC (DSC) off.

Both come back on automatically at the next engine start.

If you want to disable TCS/DSC "on the fly" all you have to do is put a PB switch in power supply to the MAF/IAT circuit. Open, depress the PB switch, to "fault" the MAF/IAT and the engine will die due to the resulting CEL, release the PB, restart the engine and be on your way. The CEL will reset within a few drive cycles enabling the DCS/DSC functionality.

Lastly it seems to me that the CX-7 F/awd system is "stellar" enough that disabling TCS would be a useless measure. I would think that if the CX-7's F/awd system cannot move you forward you either need a tow or a set of tire chains on the rear wheels FIRST and then add the fronts only if required, the latter a RARE instant indeed IMMHO.

But then maybe you have the CX-7 FWD model and your need is therefore valid, VERY valid.
'stellar' is not the word in my book more like "sh!t". Any vehicle that senses a tiny amount of tire slip and reduces power to like 10hp and holds the brakes on when you are trying to get across an intersection or even just trying to move is total crap! I've literally sat for like 10 seconds holding the throttle down to go forward in a straight line waiting for power to come back on and the brakes to let off...
Now I realize that the stock tires are absolutely crap but still it should not be that bad. I am buying Nokian WR2 tires for next winter and if the car still pisses me off like this I am selling it...
 
'stellar' is not the word in my book more like "sh!t". Any vehicle that senses a tiny amount of tire slip and reduces power to like 10hp and holds the brakes on when you are trying to get across an intersection or even just trying to move is total crap! I've literally sat for like 10 seconds holding the throttle down to go forward in a straight line waiting for power to come back on and the brakes to let off...
Now I realize that the stock tires are absolutely crap but still it should not be that bad. I am buying Nokian WR2 tires for next winter and if the car still pisses me off like this I am selling it...

Mazda has put an improved TCS/DSC in the 2009 Mazda and 2010 Mazda 3. It actually lets you build momentum and try's to put just the right amount of power down. It works very good. The 2010 CX-7 will get this system.
 
'stellar' is not the word in my book more like "sh!t". Any vehicle that senses a tiny amount of tire slip and reduces power to like 10hp and holds the brakes on when you are trying to get across an intersection or even just trying to move is total crap! I've literally sat for like 10 seconds holding the throttle down to go forward in a straight line waiting for power to come back on and the brakes to let off...
Now I realize that the stock tires are absolutely crap but still it should not be that bad. I am buying Nokian WR2 tires for next winter and if the car still pisses me off like this I am selling it...

There is no substitute for wintertime driving skills.

When the TCS activates that is its way of telling you that you are applying to much engine torque for current roadbed conditions. What you need to learn is that when TCS activates the procedure should be to lift the gas pedal and then re-apply to a level that doesn't quite reach the point of loss of traction and the resulting "interference" of TCS.

Learn to "feather" the throttle right up to the point wherein traction will be lost but not beyond. Yes, you could rely on TCS for this functionality but TCS throttling is FAR to COURSE for that use.

The CX-7's F/awd system has the ability to solidly lock the rear driveline into FULL synchronization with the front driveline. I cannot imagine that it had not already taken that measure in your circumstance so TCS activation would have been fully justified.

More likely than otherwise your dilemma arose not from the F/awd system as such, but more likely the "virtualization" of rear and/or (maybe) front LSD. With the rear driveline locked into synchronization with the front you still had/have the problem of having simple, fully open, front and rear differentials. Absent actual mechanical or virtual LSD functionality that would mean only two wheels, one front and one rear, would have been "driving" to the level of limiting available engine traction.

A true 4X4 system, in days of yore, would have had a mechanical rear Limited Slip Differential, thereby forcing engine torque to at least three wheels. Some extreme 4X4 vehicle's, mostly the ones designed specifically for serious off-road use, would have also had a front mechanical LSD thereby forcing engine torque to all four wheels. In that circumstance with any ONE wheel remaining tractive the vehicle would still move under power.

IMMHO now that there is a reasonably viable alternative it is UTTERLY stupid to carry around the extra weight and complexity, and endue the lack of long term reliability of mechanical LSD's.

So your CX-7, UNDOUBTEDLY, is equipped with a "virtual" rear LSD. Possibly also a virtual front LSD. But since front LSD's can be a bit dangerous for an inexperienced driver that is not as likely. A fully functional front LSD, most especially in a FWD or F/awd could easily, too easily, yank the stearing wheel right out of the grip of an unwary or inexperienced driver, often breaking fingers in the process.

A front LSD on a FWD, or a F/awd car with the system still mostly in front drive mode, can exhibit a phenomenal level of torque stear.

So, it is highly likely your CX-7 has a rear LSD "virtual" function, and maybe even a "soft" (electronic implementations can do that) front virtual LSD. But I would guess that no TCS "measures" engine dethrottling or selective wheel braking, will be likely to occur absent the rear driveline already being fully locked to the front driveline.

So your CX-7 is, more likely than otherwise, as fully capable of handling any roadbed conditions as is the best of the best 4X4 systems. But just as with those true 4X4 drivers, experience and book learning are of GREAT help.

My '01 F/awd RX300 wherein absent TCS intervention I'm lucky if 10% goes to the rear with wheelspin/slip, is shod throughout the year, four seasons, with nice and QUIET running, and COMFORTABLY riding, summer use only Bridgestone Turanza tires. During the RARE times of need I have tire chains available. One set of tire chains for the REAR on board all the time, and a second set for the front also onboard during the winter months.

TRACTION...!!
 
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I can get it sideways too but I would like to continue the drift and not have the brakes kick in and throttle shut down. I'll have to look up this trick and also the fuse.

Drifting implies at least one set of wheels, mostly the rear, having only "slip" traction. If you want to do that in a CX-7 you will need to "drop", disconnect, one front halfshaft, apply a constant 12 volts to the awd clutch(LOCK the rear driveline to the PTO), and disable TCS and DSC.

If you want to "drift" you need a RWD vehicle or at least a R/awd vehicle wherein the majority of the engine torque always goes rearward.
 
If you're out to drift a CX-7 then there's problems.

As for making the clutch engage, where are you getting your facts? Your logic has to be some of the most off the wall I've ever heard, and unsafe at that.
 
Basically I'm complaining because I am not in control of the car, it's in control of itself and I absolutely hate that. I have a wrx that is awd and you can 'drift' it no problem. I can take off faster than most vehicles even with the tires spinning, that is what it's supposed to do when it's slippery. I give it gas and it goes and does not stop me from giving it more throttle. I know how to drive, it's not a problem there. Maybe I should just let the wife drive...so much for enjoying the zoom zoom and dont even get me started on the uber touchy abs!

My 92 honda accord is better in the winter than this cx-7!
 
Basically I'm complaining because I am not in control of the car, it's in control of itself and I absolutely hate that. I have a wrx that is awd and you can 'drift' it no problem. I can take off faster than most vehicles even with the tires spinning, that is what it's supposed to do when it's slippery. I give it gas and it goes and does not stop me from giving it more throttle. I know how to drive, it's not a problem there. Maybe I should just let the wife drive...so much for enjoying the zoom zoom and dont even get me started on the uber touchy abs!

My 92 honda accord is better in the winter than this cx-7!

The biggest problem you have is the stock tires. You won't have a positive winter experience as long as those are on the car. Even with the Nokian tires I have the TCS is a littel intrusive if its a glare ice intersection. If I pull up to one of those a hit the TCS off button, it allows me too build a little speed before it kicks back in at 30km/h.
 
The biggest problem you have is the stock tires. You won't have a positive winter experience as long as those are on the car. Even with the Nokian tires I have the TCS is a littel intrusive if its a glare ice intersection. If I pull up to one of those a hit the TCS off button, it allows me too build a little speed before it kicks back in at 30km/h.

What Nokian tires do you have? I plan on getting the WRG2 in 235/50. Yeah I figured the tires are about 80% of my complaining but I still like the raw experience of total control. I auto-x and such and if my car decided I gave it too much throttle because the tires slipped and applied brakes and cut power to nil I would flip out! I just expect the same kind of experience in the winter, I'll stick with my subaru for winter. Other than that I love the car, it looks great!
 
If you're out to drift a CX-7 then there's problems.

As for making the clutch engage, where are you getting your facts? Your logic has to be some of the most off the wall I've ever heard, and unsafe at that.

This post is directed too.....??
 
There are two clutches that engage the rear driveline, actually two clutch packs within the rear differential housing just forward of the differential. One clutch "pack" is electro-magnetically operated/actuated and as incrementally engages based on the PWM duty cycle engages results in pressure being applied to the second frictional clutch pack. It is this second clutch that actually does the "work" of coupling the rear driveline to the front.

There is Mazda video on the INTERNET that gives a good overall view of the operation. There is a second video wherein someone has hooked a voltmeter into the supply circuit for the rear driveline clutch and you get to see how the applied voltage fluctuates as a function of various driving conditions.
 
I took my CX-7 yesterday to Rallycross it. I pulled the DSC & both ABS fuses, which seemed to work fine. Of course you have a christmas tree of lights on the dash. It included the AWD warning light, which made me wonder it the AWD system is not working, because I disabled the other systems?

Other than that it drove fine. Put the fuses back in for the drive home.
 
This is a response to the guy who woanted to buy the module of ebay DON'T it is the biggest waste of $30 dollars. All it is, is a relay the connects from your ignition to a ground to the back of the TCS button. It doesn't do anything when you have it hooked up other then wasting your time trying to figure out why it doesn't work
 
CX-7 AWD 2007
Need help removing the DSC fuse #17 under the hood.
When attempting to replace the fuse or check it I found that this fuse and the two ABS fuses are in a little case in the fuse box. I don't want to break it by pulling as hard as i can so can anyone tell me how to remove this (these) fuses from the enclosure they are in so i can check the DSC fuse?
 
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