Switching to Spin on filter for 2.3 L

vimo19

Member
:
2004 Mazda 3
Have anyone had any problems after switching to spin on filter on a 2.3 L Mazda 3,like restriction of oil flowing ?
 
May car companies are switching to cartridge filters. You can find them at most places that do oil changes. Is there any reason wny you want to switch?
 
I'm just curious because most of the guys did that switch, but I think I'm going to stay with the cartridge filter.
 
I think most people did it because it was new and was difficult to find the filters but not so much anymore.
 
vimo19 said:
Have anyone had any problems after switching to spin on filter on a 2.3 L Mazda 3,like restriction of oil flowing ?


No problems here and I am running mobile1 15-50. I've had it for many oil changes without any issues.
I am glad to get rid of that flimsy piece of plastic.
 
gdkenoyer said:
Oops, I think you're in the wrong forum! I'm running M1 15W-50 also, but in my Harley, not my mazda...
8^0

Seriously. If your engine takes a crap with 15W50 in it, your warranty is voided instantly.

I did the swap to the spin-on and haven't looked back. Ease of finding a filter isn't the only reason to switch. It's also cheaper (no o-rings to buy), safer (no plastic housing to crack and start spraying oil everywhere) and more secure (no plastic threads to cross).

The fact that you can find more and better filters is just a bonus.
 
goldwing2000 said:
Seriously. If your engine takes a crap with 15W50 in it, your warranty is voided instantly.

I did the swap to the spin-on and haven't looked back. Ease of finding a filter isn't the only reason to switch. It's also cheaper (no o-rings to buy), safer (no plastic housing to crack and start spraying oil everywhere) and more secure (no plastic threads to cross).

The fact that you can find more and better filters is just a bonus.


I switched and I'm glad I did. The plastic filter thing got to the point where I could remove it and tighten it completly by HAND. That's bad. I didn't feel it was a very good seal and with the heat here in vegas the plastic would probably get brittle and break eventually.

I use shell rotella-T truck synthetic oil in my car. It's 5w40 it gets hot enough here that it acts as 5w20 does when it's not hot during the summer. Come winter I might switch to a lower viscosity again. I would rather have the added viscosity in the heat plus it breaks down real slow compared to most oils.
 
Last edited:
goldwing2000 said:
Seriously. If your engine takes a crap with 15W50 in it, your warranty is voided instantly.

I am pretty sure my warranty went out the window about a year ago when we installed the turbo. Thats the reason for the 15w50.
 
briand805 said:
I am pretty sure my warranty went out the window about a year ago when we installed the turbo. Thats the reason for the 15w50.

Well, that's a different story, then. :D
 
briand805 said:
I am pretty sure my warranty went out the window about a year ago when we installed the turbo. Thats the reason for the 15w50.
Warranty aside, I'm curious as to why the really, really thick oil? The 15W-50 is like molasses next to the 5W-20, both warm and cold. I would fear that you're pumping much less volume while pushing the pressures way past the limits -- not to mention the lack of oil at startup...

Was this a recommendation of the turbo manufacturer?
 
gdkenoyer said:
Warranty aside, I'm curious as to why the really, really thick oil? The 15W-50 is like molasses next to the 5W-20, both warm and cold. I would fear that you're pumping much less volume while pushing the pressures way past the limits -- not to mention the lack of oil at startup...

Was this a recommendation of the turbo manufacturer?


Yes this was a recommendation. Oil temps in a turbo application are much higher then N/A car. However the cold start warm up time is longer.
 
briand805 said:
Yes this was a recommendation. Oil temps in a turbo application are much higher then N/A car. However the cold start warm up time is longer.
interesting; I've heard that turbos can easily cook the oil.
The 15W-50, being intended (these days) for air-cooled applications, is more tolerant of heat; but pure syntehtics in general (such as both the M1 0/5W-20 and 15/20W-50, and AMSoil, etc.) completely surpase the dino (non-syn) oils in heat tolerance.
good luck to you!
 
I switched to the spin on shortly after my first oil change. I run 5W30 Mobil 1full synthetic and have had zero problems.
 
Back