Switched to 5W-30 from 0W-20

No need. Mazda Moly 0w20 pour point is -54C :) Other quality oils 0w20 go to -40C as well. Thats ambient temp. lower than that temp and you get other problems. Need engine heater. The canadian Mazda dealers offer one for the CX5. The oil is quite capabe to withstand -30C and +50C but the oil change intervals would be shorter.
Where did you find a spec sheet on the moly oil?
 
Where does it say 5w-30 is ok for USA models? I only see 5w-30 listed in the “except USA, Canada” section.
In US there is this "thing" called CAFE. I did not know about either. "NHTSA's Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) standards regulate how far our vehicles must travel on a gallon of fuel." Europe doesn't have it. Now, if you read in the Mazda manual for US, it says like this for non-turbo 2.5 L engine:
"Use SAE 0W-20 engine oil.
Mazda Genuine Oil is used in your Mazda vehicle. Mazda Genuine 0W-20 Oil is required to achieve optimum fuel economy. "

But here's the (other) thing: your car fuel economy can not be regulated in practice because it depends on your driving style. So, I think Mazda had to put that in writing in the manual so it doesn't break the CAFE requirement. In reality, your Mazda CX-5 from US it's the same Mazda from France, UK, Australia, Japan or whatever. If the same car can run just fine with 5W-30 in Europe, be sure it can run the same in US. I was on 0W too and switched to 5W-30 and there is no problem at all. Plus, I think now I can change the oil at 7500 miles interval rather than 5000 miles like I was doing when using 0W but don't quote me on this, I may be wrong.

Do you wanna use 5W-30? Go ahead, you'll be just fine, the car will be happy.
 
for warranty purposes stick with 0w20 as that is what the manual says for non-turbo models. And yea its due to CAFE in US. With that said that engine would work just fine with 5w30 too
 
dont recall but it was some site some time ago. I wrote specs of the oil and have details along with lots of other oils like Idemitsu, Eneos, Amsoil. I was searching the specs for various oils when looking what oil to use for my Turbo. Mazda US doesnt have oem one 5w30 that is good. Always used Mazda moly 0w20 before for the non turbo as it is excellent oil.

Here is what I have for the Mazda moly 0w20

visc at 100C - 8.3
flashpoint F - 430
pour point C - -54
tbn - 8.8
ash - 1.04
sulfur - 0.32
acid tan - 2
hths - 2.6
noack % - 12.2
VI - 221

latest bottles may have changed a bit of course. They did change the bottle an year ago or so.
Where did you find a spec sheet on the moly oil?
 
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Warranty is not a concern unless you pay the overpriced stealership prices for oil change. As said before 5W-30 is recommended in the Mexico and European markets it is sold in which don't go below -20F. Identical 2.5 engine.
 
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everybody can read and interpret the manual as they wish. Free country:) but Mazda has the final say if something happens. For US they want you to have 0w20 for 'NA engine.
 
Where does it say 5w-30 is ok for USA models? I only see 5w-30 listed in the “except USA, Canada” section.
Why would being in the USA or Canada magically make it not ok for the same exact engines? Its just regulatory crap in those countries that are driving them to encourage using 0w20. But clearly 5w30 is fine. The only time you might want to opt for 0w20 is if you are in areas of those countries that get well below 0 regularly and need the 0w20 for colder startups.

I've been using 5w30 in my CX-5 for several years now (just turned 10 years old, 121k miles), and its doing great.
 
Why would being in the USA or Canada magically make it not ok for the same exact engines? Its just regulatory crap in those countries that are driving them to encourage using 0w20. But clearly 5w30 is fine. The only time you might want to opt for 0w20 is if you are in areas of those countries that get well below 0 regularly and need the 0w20 for colder startups.

I've been using 5w30 in my CX-5 for several years now (just turned 10 years old, 121k miles), and its doing great.

Curious...if you had used 0w20 and noticed any difference. In Denver myself. The dealership recommended 0w20 so have just stuck with it. Sounds like the biggest difference may be the engine is quieter.
 
Last time I had an oil change at a dealership was about two years ago. I wanted to use a 30 weight oil, and they said no problem. Service Manager said it wouldn't have any effect on the warranty. They're the ones that switched it up for me. I don't see it being an issue at all.
I'll stick with 30 oil (full synthetic btw) for the foreseeable future.
 
i wish i had read this thread before going for an oil change. would've spent a lot less on the oil. for some reason, the mazda spec 0w-20 is much more expensive than the honda spec 0w-20. the tech said something about the mazda spec oil dating back to the mazda/ford says of the 2000s, which made little sense to me. anyone running 5w-30 synthetic blend? i'd imagine it's best to run full synthetic in the winter though, no?
 
i wish i had read this thread before going for an oil change. would've spent a lot less on the oil. for some reason, the mazda spec 0w-20 is much more expensive than the honda spec 0w-20. the tech said something about the mazda spec oil dating back to the mazda/ford says of the 2000s, which made little sense to me. anyone running 5w-30 synthetic blend? i'd imagine it's best to run full synthetic in the winter though, no?
When you said the 0W-20 is more expensive than 5W-30 at your oil change place, it could be just 0W-20 oils are in full synthetic form, but 5W-30 oils can be in conventional form, so the shop charges you less for conventional 5W-30 oil. So when you choose 5W-30 oil, make sure to get full synthetic.

Nothing wrong by using conventional oil, or synthetic blend, but with few dollars more, full synthetic oil has much superior performance for much better engine protection.
 
Its one of those did they do it, its ok and no problem, but if you do it....

Imo , use the 0W-20 during warranty period if you DIY.

if your oil changes are at dealership, see if they'll use 5W-30.

Once warranty's expired use whatever you want. By then with an older engine I'll probably switch up to 5W -20.
 
When you said the 0W-20 is more expensive than 5W-30 at your oil change place, it could be just 0W-20 oils are in full synthetic form, but 5W-30 oils can be in conventional form, so the shop charges you less for conventional 5W-30 oil. So when you choose 5W-30 oil, make sure to get full synthetic.

Nothing wrong by using conventional oil, or synthetic blend, but with few dollars more, full synthetic oil has much superior performance for much better engine protection.
this large independent shop charges less for honda spec 0w-20 than the one they said was for my cx-5. not sure why i couldn't just use the honda spec oil; maybe it was a money grab? honda oil change would've been $54.99 using $10 coupon; mine was $79.99 w/ coupon. the invoice shows each qt. of oil at $8.99. this shop is usually honest and reasonable, or else i'd just chalk it up to them trying to make money off of me. i may go with a 5w-30 blend in the spring, then switch back to full synthetic in the winter (depending on timing of oil changes).
 
this large independent shop charges less for honda spec 0w-20 than the one they said was for my cx-5. not sure why i couldn't just use the honda spec oil; maybe it was a money grab? honda oil change would've been $54.99 using $10 coupon; mine was $79.99 w/ coupon. the invoice shows each qt. of oil at $8.99. this shop is usually honest and reasonable, or else i'd just chalk it up to them trying to make money off of me. i may go with a 5w-30 blend in the spring, then switch back to full synthetic in the winter (depending on timing of oil changes).

They were already profiting heavily no matter which oil went in your car. They probably were actually being cautious and didn't want to mess things up. Maybe the Honda oil had extra additives or less additives, etc. Do the honda oil specs meet the Mazda specs?

Pricing structures differ.
Store pricing is understandable...
1 quart oil=$8.98 part of that is profit for oil company, part is profit for retailer/auto store and a portion is packaging and transport fees and a portion is convenience fees, taxes, etc.

The same oil in 5qt jug only cost you $29, or only approx. $6 per quart...
and alot of that savings is based on packaging(less plastic,etc.), Plus transport(takes up less space in cargo hold due to packaging/shape even though weight unchanged), etc.

But garage oil changes is pure profit. The bulk oil is cheap, even if a quality brand. This was back some 25 years ago when I had priced bulk oil(from major brand companies, f.i. Pennzoil, etc.) as part of business plan. It was only like 40 to 50 % of store quart pricing. So in the example above, bulk oil would be only $ 4 to $4.50 per quart. The cheap noname oil would be even less. Yet the quicklube place charges you a retail price.

Now if you wanted a certain oil used then yes they might have to get the auto store to run out a couple quarts of Redline, Purple or Lucas, etc. and charge you accordingly. But otherwise, the shop is making labor profit plus gouging you on oil pricing. Maybe the dynamics have changed slightly and costs more but the bulk oil pricing is still very lucrative, especially if it's some cheap no brand oil.

Better off to just get some 5 gallon jugs and DIY so you know what's in there. Or take them your oil and pay them labor, shop fees and tax only.

And with the prices going crazy, best to keep your 1 quart oil containers and refill from the 5 gallons if you need to keep an emergency/top off quart in the car. I can't stand paying $9 quart, even at Walmart.
 
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Time for an oil change soon. I will definitely stick with 5W-30, it provides a better driving experience.
You can't hear the sound of the engine over the sound of the tires most of the time.
This is a day one upgrade in my opinion.
 
yes, day 1 if warranty does not play a role.
Otherwise stick to what Mazda requires otherwise its a risk especially with all the 2.5 engine issues in the past few years.
 
I just don't get the view how this is somehow a scary problem. If you somehow, really, actually needed to, you could change your oil back to 0W-20. You don't have to do any or all service at a dealer. I have 1 year left on the powertrain warranty. I'd still make this upgrade day 1.
 
Everyone's experience may be different. Had to do few bigger warranty claims in the past (related to powertrain) and for some I needed to show what oil and oil filter was in the car. I do my own oil changes. Obviously one could put any oil but I did need to show the receipts the least. Once they saw its 0w20 oil, oem oil filter and records of those since say 1 ,the warranty claim/pay was approved. Each repair was few hundred to thousands which Mazda covered.
If I was using the dealer to change the oil, pretty sure they would not even ask me.
And yes we know that Mazda marked 0w20 in US because of eco/cafe reqs but dealing with the Mazda dealers and warranty claims sometimes is very subjective and annoying.
The engine run perfect on 5w30 and that is used anywhere else in the world
 
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Why would being in the USA or Canada magically make it not ok for the same exact engines? Its just regulatory crap in those countries that are driving them to encourage using 0w20. But clearly 5w30 is fine. The only time you might want to opt for 0w20 is if you are in areas of those countries that get well below 0 regularly and need the 0w20 for colder startups.

I've been using 5w30 in my CX-5 for several years now (just turned 10 years old, 121k miles), and its doing great.
I do live in such an area, so I use 5/30 mobile1 in the warmer months, and Mazda 0/20 in the winter. I notice no difference in the performance or sound of the engine. I'm a fairly competent non-professional mechanic, and I'm constantly listening to any engine I'm running. Even with my head under the hood before and after changing oil weights, there just isn’t a discernible difference in the sound between the two. Others have obviously had a different experience. I see no difference in oil use, about 1/2 quart between 6000 mile oil changes, and no difference in gas mileage.

I'm confident both are good oils. I just like to have the 0/20 on those -20 or lower start ups in the winter
 
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