boostedprotege
Member
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- 2003 mazda protege dx/2003 mazda protege5
jist what i hear bout them from alot of people who have superchargers. but still wud love to see how this goes.
Supercharged MP3 Build
- Thread starter MP3Performance
- Start date
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
The adapter plate from the supercharger kit does not bolt straight to the block, it bolts on to the A/C adapter plate which itself is then bolted to the block. The A/C adapter plate on the protege is different then the probe (as shown in the pics on page 1) because we have different compressors, which I noticed when I was at the salvage yard. Surprisingly the protege AC compressor is made by Panasonic (boom08). It goes like this.....Supercharger-->"kit" adapter plate-->A/C adapter plate-->engine block.
Here is a pic from someone else which shows the coolant pieces (I think its technically called the thermostat housing?)
It is a top view, but you can see how the housing is pointed straight down, but on the probe the housing goes almost straight left.
I will try and get some pics of the coolant housings side by side later on as well as some better pics of the OEM pieces that came off the supercharger (possibly later today). I looked to see if I could make the pieces work, but it doesn't seem likely due to the different directions of the housings.
bedwards6954
Member
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- Mazda, RX-8
so both A/C adaptor plates will bolt to the engine block correct?
I will take a picture of mine, but my "kit" adapter plate has the same whole pattern as the A/C adapter plate that bolts to the block. I will try to take a picture. so mine goes
Supercharger=> Kit adapter plate=> engine block.
it may very well be that I have a different kit adaptor.
I will take a picture of mine, but my "kit" adapter plate has the same whole pattern as the A/C adapter plate that bolts to the block. I will try to take a picture. so mine goes
Supercharger=> Kit adapter plate=> engine block.
it may very well be that I have a different kit adaptor.
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
That is correct, both plates will bolt up to the engine block, but..........I just realized I dont need either of them (doh). I checked the pieces again, and just as you said, the SC mounting plate goes straight to the block. I don't know why I didn't try that in the first place, must have been since I saw your AC plate was different on the pics from your cardomain and went straight to that.
On a 2nd note I ordered the additional couplers and t-bolt connectors in order to make the MAF connect properly. Should be here by the end of the week. I still need to go to the mazda dealer to get a couple small things.
I think the biggest problem will be making the idler pulley, still need to figure out how to make it work.
bedwards6954
Member
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- Mazda, RX-8
I am glad you got the adaptor plate figured out, I will admit that that picture on my cardomain is a bit deciving, I just took lots of pictures, I should add one with that removed and another with just the adaptor plate bolted up 
the MAF is a funny thing even for the probe setup mr speed I believed did this wrong, but perhaps he did it with reason. the inlet for my maf should be 3" diameter so the air will flow over the reisters but you may notice its only 2" on the kit. my maf got no direct airflow. this is important so the ecm can proberly cacluate fuel trims,even though you may be adding a correction, you want to correct a corrected sorce if that makes sense.
when I try this again I am going to put the MAF on the inlet side of the supercharger, much like the stock location of the MSP, I do understand that some get better performance by moving it to the hot side, its just something I want to try on my setup.
I don't thing the idle pulley is completely necessary, I think you should get it working first
the MAF is a funny thing even for the probe setup mr speed I believed did this wrong, but perhaps he did it with reason. the inlet for my maf should be 3" diameter so the air will flow over the reisters but you may notice its only 2" on the kit. my maf got no direct airflow. this is important so the ecm can proberly cacluate fuel trims,even though you may be adding a correction, you want to correct a corrected sorce if that makes sense.
when I try this again I am going to put the MAF on the inlet side of the supercharger, much like the stock location of the MSP, I do understand that some get better performance by moving it to the hot side, its just something I want to try on my setup.
I don't thing the idle pulley is completely necessary, I think you should get it working first
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
As far as the MAF goes the inlet on mine is 2.75in, and the piping seems to be 2.5in (outer diameter). So I got 2 reducers with one side 2.5in and the other 2.75. Hopefully the 3 in. length or so in the coupler will allow the air to expand without causing turbulence (im not too concerned about that). For now I will just keep the MAF after the bov so that it doesn't stall, like it does for msp's that have a bov and the stock MAF location.
Do both hoses off the bov just go to a vac source (already ordered a vac block), or do you attach one of them? Also did your belt slip with the stock pulley or the overdrive pulley?
If the parts get here by saturday I may be able to start the car this weekend (whistle).
Do both hoses off the bov just go to a vac source (already ordered a vac block), or do you attach one of them? Also did your belt slip with the stock pulley or the overdrive pulley?
If the parts get here by saturday I may be able to start the car this weekend (whistle).
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Good stuff.
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
So I wasn't able to do too much over the weekend, decided to go snowboarding instead. But I did spend an hour or two and got to install everything to see how it all lines up. I had to do some cutting but everything is good now. It seems that the probes front clip is farther out then the proteges because the piping seems to be closer to the radiator then in bedwards pics. I've decided to install slim fans in order to get the pipes farther away from the header.
As far as the fans go I will have a one 12in and another 12 or 10in, depending on how things line up. I also have a temp sensor kit that I can set for the fans to activate. Both fans will be set up to activate automatically when they reach a specific temp. But for the 2nd fan I will have a switch so that I can turn it on or off. This is so that both fans dont always run when its not necessary, but if it is a hot day or I am at auto-x I can flip a switch and have both fans work.
I plan to reinforce some welds this week and repainting the rest of the kit. Hopefully I'll have some installed pics by the weekend.
Pics:
1. 2.75-2.5in reducer couplers for the MAF sensor.
2. Vacuum block.
3. Wrapped header.
4. 12in slim fan (left), stock fan (right)
5. Red switch (for SC), blue (for 2nd fan)
As far as the fans go I will have a one 12in and another 12 or 10in, depending on how things line up. I also have a temp sensor kit that I can set for the fans to activate. Both fans will be set up to activate automatically when they reach a specific temp. But for the 2nd fan I will have a switch so that I can turn it on or off. This is so that both fans dont always run when its not necessary, but if it is a hot day or I am at auto-x I can flip a switch and have both fans work.
I plan to reinforce some welds this week and repainting the rest of the kit. Hopefully I'll have some installed pics by the weekend.
Pics:
1. 2.75-2.5in reducer couplers for the MAF sensor.
2. Vacuum block.
3. Wrapped header.
4. 12in slim fan (left), stock fan (right)
5. Red switch (for SC), blue (for 2nd fan)
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MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
bedwards6954
Member
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- Mazda, RX-8
you only attach one of the vacuum lines, its to the bigger of the two nipples
I don't think I ever did have belt slip just thought I did
I don't think I ever did have belt slip just thought I did
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
So I tried to start car over the weekend, and lucky it did start. I got everything hooked up, replaced crankshaft pulley, installed belts, installed fans and wiring....etc. Everything lined up good other then the bottom of the radiator. The bottom hose off the radiator is hitting the SC, but all I need is a couple more inches of hose and I can make it work.
The car runs great when the SC switch is turned off, but there is a little bit of a issue when I flip the switch on and I am positive it is due to the bov. I think that the spring in the bov (knockoff type s) is too strong for the car when it is at idle. At first the adjustment screw was in all the way and it didn't open at all and caused the car to stumble and the rpm to jump around. Then I backed out the screw all the way, and it was much better, but not perfect. It can now idle ok on its own, but it is too rich (10-11 AFR) and the bov is making a high pitched sound that is not normal. I think it is because the bov is just barely able to open when the car is idling but not as much as it should. When I pressed the gas the bov did close and when I released the gas it did blow off as it should. I will try and take apart the bov and see if I can remove one of the springs so it can open easier at lower boost.
I also had some issues with the SSAFC when connecting to my laptop, but it was probably the laptops fault because it is a old pos that I need to reformat. It did connect once, but when I tried again the computer kept freezing.
I can't wait to drive the car, but that will have to wait at least a week or two.
The car runs great when the SC switch is turned off, but there is a little bit of a issue when I flip the switch on and I am positive it is due to the bov. I think that the spring in the bov (knockoff type s) is too strong for the car when it is at idle. At first the adjustment screw was in all the way and it didn't open at all and caused the car to stumble and the rpm to jump around. Then I backed out the screw all the way, and it was much better, but not perfect. It can now idle ok on its own, but it is too rich (10-11 AFR) and the bov is making a high pitched sound that is not normal. I think it is because the bov is just barely able to open when the car is idling but not as much as it should. When I pressed the gas the bov did close and when I released the gas it did blow off as it should. I will try and take apart the bov and see if I can remove one of the springs so it can open easier at lower boost.
I also had some issues with the SSAFC when connecting to my laptop, but it was probably the laptops fault because it is a old pos that I need to reformat. It did connect once, but when I tried again the computer kept freezing.
I can't wait to drive the car, but that will have to wait at least a week or two.
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- aggressive auto culture
sick!! vids or pics would be amazing.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
the BOV is supposed to open at idle? are you sure?
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
sounds to me like you should have the SC wired to disengaged below 1000 RPM to me...
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
I am pretty sure it is supposed to (hope bedwards can confirm?) because it is already making boost just being at idle with the SC on. When the SC is engaged it is spinning together with the crank, so it is a little different then a turbo, which need more exhaust gas flow in order to spin up the turbine. When the bov was tightened all the way the bov stayed shut and the car was going crazy probably due to compressor surge. It needs to let the excess gas keep on escaping because the TB is closed at idle while the SC is pushing in air, so it needs to go somewhere?
I can't think of a way to automatically wire it off under 1000rpm (other then flipping the switch)?
I will try to get some pics and video this week.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
compressor surge is a turbo phenamanon, but it may have been trying to boost against the throttle plate, which would screw with the IAC valve and just make all sorts of things weird.
MP3Performance
Member
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- Mazda MP3
A little update from yesterday. I took apart the bov and removed the smaller of the two springs. Bolted it back up, but it didn't fix the problem. It kind of made it worse because now it won't close all the way under boost. When I would blip the throttle it made a more whistle noise then the "pop" sound it was making earlier. I guess I will just put the spring back in and leave it alone for now.
I was also able to data log on the SSAFC for a couple min., the AFR were kind of jumping back and forth, but the vac was almost a constant 20 and the rpm's were pretty stable. The pressure never went above 0 psi, but this was due the the bov not being able to close properly as well as me not revving over 2500. All of this was with the SC on. If it is off, and in NA mode then everything is all fine and dandy.
I was also able to data log on the SSAFC for a couple min., the AFR were kind of jumping back and forth, but the vac was almost a constant 20 and the rpm's were pretty stable. The pressure never went above 0 psi, but this was due the the bov not being able to close properly as well as me not revving over 2500. All of this was with the SC on. If it is off, and in NA mode then everything is all fine and dandy.
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
I think you should switch to a pull type BOV.
bedwards6954
Member
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- Mazda, RX-8
you don't know how a BOV works
the BOV function is possible through manifold pressure.
vacuum usually 20-24hg holds the BOV open. when you go WOT you have 0 manifold pressure, the spring now closes the BOV, once you have boost it holds the BOV closed.
So at Idle ALL BLow Off valves are open.
the Supercharger is ALWAYS building pressure when turned on, that is why in stock form they have a Bypass Valve, same operation has a BOV. this allows the excess pressure to be released. if this is closed pressure will build between the supercharger and throttle plate, this will try to stop the supercharger from spinning and either start belt slipping bad, or even stale the engine
the Greddy BOV is a poor choice for this application. this one sounds like it may be defective, at Idle with my supercharger on it sounds like a vacuum cleaner, cuz its blowing so much air out a small opening. I would try using the Bypass valve that came with your supercharger, I am sure you could rig up something
also on a side note, when you cruise or drive around town the BOV is mostly closed this means that the engine is trying to suck air through the supercharger, it can do it but not effectively, I don't have proof but I believe it harms Performance and MPG
