Success! MS3 boost control
- Thread starter nig3
- Start date
both of your last posts are wrong !
he did not "T" into the spot i said. his very first post says he put it between the wastgate and the factory boost controller. that is not the best way. the car will still have to much control over what happens.
also just becaust this valve bleeds out boost, does not mean you dont need a BCD. it bleeds boost from the boost control system not inside the manifold where the map sensor sees it. if you hit 18psi you WILL hit fuel cut with this. that is why he is set to 17psi i assume. i have the same thing on my car right now, but i used a turbosmart MBC. i am at 17pi with no cut. once i turn it up a click it fuel cuts. i have a map clamp coming to fix that though.
i would spend the extra time to take the ecu out of the picture. it takes longer but it is worth it. his way may take 20 mins to install and my way takes about an hour and a half, but there is a difference. you will have the same peak boost either way, but it will come on much faster my way.
he did not "T" into the spot i said. his very first post says he put it between the wastgate and the factory boost controller. that is not the best way. the car will still have to much control over what happens.
also just becaust this valve bleeds out boost, does not mean you dont need a BCD. it bleeds boost from the boost control system not inside the manifold where the map sensor sees it. if you hit 18psi you WILL hit fuel cut with this. that is why he is set to 17psi i assume. i have the same thing on my car right now, but i used a turbosmart MBC. i am at 17pi with no cut. once i turn it up a click it fuel cuts. i have a map clamp coming to fix that though.
i would spend the extra time to take the ecu out of the picture. it takes longer but it is worth it. his way may take 20 mins to install and my way takes about an hour and a half, but there is a difference. you will have the same peak boost either way, but it will come on much faster my way.
Now where in hell are you finding them? I've looked and looked put with no luck of any kind.
Have even checked out the Subbie site like that cat said and saw NOTHING!(uhm)
Powerslave
Banned
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- mps 3
yep we where close he got about one car link on me,but I do have both my cats, i need to get the downpipe and mid pipe, i'm going to nig3's guy this week to get the second cat cut out for straight pipe. Plus as we talked about race tune coming soon!!(cabpatch), wish list... upgraded fuel pump,downpipe, bigger intercooler.
well hes running 18psi and hasnt mentioned nothing to me about having fuel cut problems and im not tryin to say i know it all but he has had no problems what so ever, maybe he will chime in on this later....
they sell them here for 35$http://subaruproparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=698&osCsid=4a7d08a772b04439fd0388282bee02c4
doesnt have fuel cut ??? he has his own thread about it !!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123689883
i'm just saying dont rush into anything. this is nothing more than a bleeder type MBC, that all it is. they get fancy and call it an ABC ...... same friggin thing ! its a bleeder valve ! look around and find what works best for you. and remember to take the factory boost system out of the picture. cap it off and be done !
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123689883
i'm just saying dont rush into anything. this is nothing more than a bleeder type MBC, that all it is. they get fancy and call it an ABC ...... same friggin thing ! its a bleeder valve ! look around and find what works best for you. and remember to take the factory boost system out of the picture. cap it off and be done !
i only had fuel cut issues when the temps would change dramitaclly here in houston. when the temp is consistant it runs great with no fuel cut ever, i havent hit fuel cut sense it has stayed cool here, but the first time it dropped 30 degres it fuel cut a few times. Just to clear things up, the few times ive hit fuel cut where very random, it has never been a problem for me yet.
trufanatic
Member
- :
- 2008 Red MS3
i've read thru this thread and you guys please listen to tru-boost. At no point in time should you ever put a bleeder between the factory boost solenoid and the ecu control. This goes for any factory turbo car, the ECU has full and exclusive control over boost and it also see's how much volumetric pressue is in the intake system(psi). If the factory ECU is calibrated to 15psi and if it see's over that its going to do two things:
1. its going to pull boost until boost pressure returns to norm but the bleeder wont let that happen
2. if it cannot return boost to what its suppose to be its going to pull timing, in this case creating 17-18 psi of boost and pulled timing could equal BOOOM!
if you have cooler temps if your area and you have the bleeder, #2 might come sooner than you think. i've been driving F/I Japanese cars since i've been 12. One thing i do notice on this forum is the regular phrase "this and that person has been doing it for a couple months now with no problems". everyones car is different, everyones drives different, everyones elevation is different. too many factors come into play with a turbo car, especially cars that vendors are just starting to play with...leave the research, development and mistakes to the vendors so they can release quality parts. stop making bandaids for things.
1. its going to pull boost until boost pressure returns to norm but the bleeder wont let that happen
2. if it cannot return boost to what its suppose to be its going to pull timing, in this case creating 17-18 psi of boost and pulled timing could equal BOOOM!
if you have cooler temps if your area and you have the bleeder, #2 might come sooner than you think. i've been driving F/I Japanese cars since i've been 12. One thing i do notice on this forum is the regular phrase "this and that person has been doing it for a couple months now with no problems". everyones car is different, everyones drives different, everyones elevation is different. too many factors come into play with a turbo car, especially cars that vendors are just starting to play with...leave the research, development and mistakes to the vendors so they can release quality parts. stop making bandaids for things.
Powerslave
Banned
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- mps 3
AWSOME AVATAR DUDE!!!!
thanks man, anyways back on topic, i seriously doubt you will blow the motor but everyone is entitled to thier own opinions
Im not makeing a bandaide for s***. Im turning up the boost a couple psi in the safest way possible for the ms3 at this point in time. The FBC does NOT pull the boost back to stock levels when using the ABC!! Once again you not bypass the FBC in any way, your just bleeding off some presure to the wastegate actuater that the FBC never new exsisted. Ive dynoed my car and made tons of power and my AFR's are perfect at 18psi . Have a look for your self. And HOLY s*** why does everyone bash my ideas on this forum whats with you mazda people, im trying to do alittle R&D for everyone so that we can have more fun with our MS3's and all i get is s***!! I have been messing with cars for over 15 years, ive owned 5-6 different turbocharged vehicles. This ******* mod works great for me is all im trying to say.(bang)
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amen (rockon)
trufanatic
Member
- :
- 2008 Red MS3
its great that youre doing this for the community. i've owned 11 turbo cars in the past 6 years and grew up in a coutry where my first car was jdm galant vr-4 at 15yrs old. thats all irrelevant. good testing though but please find a way to monitor timing thats the only thing i ask of you, dyno results dont reflect what the ECU is thinking and dont forget that they have a learing curve.
i am not bashing by any means, just trying to help people make educated decisions. also if you think you are running a full 18psi, your gauge is wrong !
18psi will trigger fuel cut EVERY TIME !! you might spike that high, but if it was to hold that amount you would get cut. thats why you see it in cold temps. cold air is more dense than warm air. that will cause the car to create a little extra boost. MBC is a great/cheap idea for this car.... I HAVE ONE. and i think this product is ...OK. i personally would not run a full bleeder valve as they WILL create a little extra lag. also the location it is installed in
nig3's car i do not recommend.
18psi will trigger fuel cut EVERY TIME !! you might spike that high, but if it was to hold that amount you would get cut. thats why you see it in cold temps. cold air is more dense than warm air. that will cause the car to create a little extra boost. MBC is a great/cheap idea for this car.... I HAVE ONE. and i think this product is ...OK. i personally would not run a full bleeder valve as they WILL create a little extra lag. also the location it is installed in
nig3's car i do not recommend.
OK Tru Boost, so ur telling me that my MBC from my MSP will work just the same as the ABC. To me it seems like that same damn thing any way.
(stoned)
(stoned)
I hear ya mon.., It's been this way from the start. I just want to learn some s*** with out blowing up my motor like the Unichip did in my MSP.(bang)
dude..where are you getting your info? the ms3 spikes to 20 psi in stock form in third gear and it does not ever hit fuel cut. mine spikes to 19-20 and holds 17 ish with the ABC and has hit fuel cut 2-3 times when the temps dropped drastically. Its the MBC's you need to worry about boost spikeing and crap. Dont tell people never to do somthing when you have no idea what you speak of.
And why dont you approve of the location i mounted my boost controller??? Not that i give a damn, just curious on your thoughts.
