sub woofer

spoolinboost

Member
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Mazdaspeed protege
i was just wondering if anyone else is having problems with the sub woofer????? i have had to have mine replaced 2 times and i keep my bass and sub levels in the minus zone.
 
had mine replaced once ....no problems since *knocking on wood*

It's due to a faulty voice-coil design by Kenwood...I would say that if you have to get it replaced several times, make them buy you a Cerwin Vega or something else...don't let them keep putting defective equipment in your ride!
 
lol... hell, I haven't even had the car long enough to figure out the stereo! How can you tell if it's working properly (this comes from someone that had a crappy GM Stereo for the last 5 years). I can hear bass, but that could also be coming from the regular speakers.
 
d_stickney said:
lol... hell, I haven't even had the car long enough to figure out the stereo! How can you tell if it's working properly (this comes from someone that had a crappy GM Stereo for the last 5 years). I can hear bass, but that could also be coming from the regular speakers.

You can turn up just the sub-woofer by adjusting the NF (Non-Fading) output through the head unit. Just hold down the Audio button (rightmost blue-lit) for like 2 seconds...it'll bring up the audio adjustments. By pressing FM and AM you can change your options for adjustment (balance - fading - etc). Use the >> and << buttons to adjust whatever option it is showing.
 
I think mine is rattleing i hear a loud noise from the rear of the car i had it looke at and its not the sway bar or rear struts. Give me some ideas i think its the woofer thats loose and rattling
 
The woofer cone may have seperated from the surround. I have one of those biatchs w/ the same problem sitting on the floor in my room. That Kenwood sub is the BIGGEST POS EVAR!!!!
 
servoeyes said:
The woofer cone may have seperated from the surround. I have one of those biatchs w/ the same problem sitting on the floor in my room. That Kenwood sub is the BIGGEST POS EVAR!!!!


Hmmm, mine sounds sweet...I've always had the bass @ +4 or +5 and I haven't had any problems yet. Most likely you guys will see me posting in this thread tomorrow saying I need to get my sub replaced:p
 
For those of you having problems with the sub, check to see if you have the pass thru filters on the sub output at 80 (120 is to high for this sub and sounds awful) and readjust the front and rear frequency cut offs. I play my deck at max all the time and no problems. Keep in mind Im never in car less then an hour and I had to turn up that little Kenwood to match my new front are rear channel amp (cant wait for summer to put in my new sub amp.

Speaking of amp below is a shame less promotion, on one of the best thing in car audio Ive bought,


By the way my new front amp is an ALTO, I mentioned this because its one of the best amps Ive bought for the price, for those of you who dont know what alto is, they are in professional studio recording equipment and trying to get into the car audio market.
I tried this amp because I didnt want up grade the charging system in the protg; this amp is perfect for small cars with light charging system and where weight is a concern. Why was this amp right for me.

1st its very efficient 80 to 90% viruses a good class A amp of about 50 %, (100 x 4) only needs a 8 gauge max (only use about 24 peak amps, were as my JL needs a 4 gauge min and use 70+ amps with the same continues wattage of 400 watts total) for my car that $30+ saving in power cable alone

2nd the size for this thing is 9x9x2 (guessing, but not much bigger if not smaller) so many place to mount this thing and still have full access the to trunk (good for me because I travel a lot)

3rd its about 2/3 the weight

4th it sounds better then my JL 450 (125 x 2 and 75 x2) about as good as the Diamond d7104 (100x4) I returned to get this and save $500, although it does not sound as good as my McIntosh but a Protg is not worth a McIntosh

Only draw back, for those who think 2 ohms is better then 4 ohms and so on. is that you cant bridge the amp and its only handle 4-8 ohms

But their 4 channel amps put out 60 watts and one puts out 100 watts, I think the 8 channel puts out 100 per a channel and the cinema is 6 x 80 and 1 sub at 300 watts

For those that do research this do note that this is a class D amp but the technology is in my opinion what car audio will go to, based on quality sound to power consumption alone.

I would get into sound, staging and everything else but I think people should research things before buying and not buy because I said this amp is good or for that matter because someone said a class A/B amp is better than a D, for those interested in good SQ and spend less than $1000 for amps (my 100x4 cost me $461 and I think the 7 ch cinema is 600 or less) look into it and those interested in impressing their friends, go to Best Buy because this wont give you what your looking for and no other hi end audio will
 
no troubles with stock sub....yet

Never use bass to turn up the bass .... a quick sure way to screw everything up. NF level only. My bass is either on 0, or sometimes +2, but that's as high as I'll ever go.
 
d_stickney said:
What does "Fade" and "Non-Fade" do?
Fade: adjusts volume levels between front & rear speakers
Non-Fade: adjusts the output signal to the subwoofer amplifier.
 
You know my sub kept coming back to life. But last night before I took in in for service, the damn thing died again, or it didnt completely die but it sounded blown. So I went to get my updated links and upper radiator hose replaced. I told him guess what, my sub is out. And I knew he was gonna say "we need to order that out from Kenwood" Well when I pick it up he said, " we also replaced the sub, we had one in stock" YESSS So the clunk is gone and the bump is back. Also no more antifreeze leak:D
 
:'( nooooooooooo

My sub is dead. It sounds blown (so so horrible). I guess i can kill 2 birds w. one stone and take it to the dealer for the flash + sub.

btw...a lil off topic here but has any one gotten harassed by a dealer for having a turbotimer when you go in for the flash? :confused:
 
i had mine replaced once and everything has ok since. And i crank mine, bass and trebele @ +8, but NF @0. Not to sure where to set the filters though. I'm always playing around though.
 
NF+3 60Hz +1 and no problems for ~ 2 months. Volume rarely goes past 24.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
My sub comes and goes. Happened the first time to me less than 24 hrs after buying it.

The dealership has me a new one ordered, thats been 2 weeks now. Not sure when Ill get it.
 
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