stroker kit?

P

Projectp5NA

Member
:
2003 mica blue p5
Hello all,Does anyone know of a company who makes or can make a stroker kit
for the FS-DE(I tried searching to no avail)?I think some extra displacement
would really go along way for NA guys,maybe 2.2 or 2.3 liters(no not the mazda3 engine).
 
HKS Makes a stroker kit for the 2.2L Mazda engines or maybe it's a kit to make the 2.0 into a 2.2. Either way HKS makes Stroker Kits for Mazda engines. I think though they come from Japan. I have been looking for something like that for the future as well. Maybe if you got in contact with HKS they will have more info. :eek:
 
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Guys, the last thing the FS needs is a stroker kit. It already has a long stroke, and horribly short rods. If you stroked the FS, you'd have to shorten the rods even more, and you'd be lucky to rev above 5000RPM. If you want more displacement, do a 2mm overbore with custom pistons.

I belive that 2.2 stroker kit from HKS is for the F2T engine from the older MX6s.
 
Yes the fs has a small bore,83mm if I'm correct.I would love to do that as I will up compression as well,so custom pistons will do.I mainly wanted to see if I could find a
tested and trusted product since I have no money for R&D to do this but thx for the reply guys
 
our engines are 1991cc correct? Would an 85mm or 86mm bore keep us at 2.0 or what,I pretty much know squat about this subject so anyone who knows please post
 
i will respond to each post in order.

1. i believe tri-point engineering had a stroker kit out, they raised the displacement to 2.2L i believe. i am not sure about the mm on the stroke.

2. actually a longer stroke should increase the spool time. when you are turboed you want a shorter stroke. shorter rods are also inherantly stronger.

3. guess what, it wont.

4. i never heard of the HKS stroker kit so i wont comment.

5. no comment

6. you hit the nail on the head, this guy knows what hes talking about.

7. yes the bore is 83mm. you can safely increase it by overboring the block to 85mm (8mm over) or if you want to push your luck, 86mm (12mm). although very few have overbored their blocks, it has been found that 85mm is a safe spot and 86 is pushing it, but is not as safe as 85. remember, bore = hp and stroke = tq at a lower rpm. (this is why you see indy cars with 10 or 12 cyl engines, but only 3.5L of displacement beacuse they are all HP(bore). (no stroke))

8. yes the 2.0 FS-DE is 1991CC. the correct way of finding engine displacement is as follows:

1/2 Bore*pi * 1/2 bore * stroke * # of cyl = displacement in CC. (since it is CC convert mm to cm, just divide by 10. ex: 83mm = 8.3cm. use CM.)
 
85mm pisons should raise compression to 9.5:1. Obviously with higher compression pistons, it would raise it more, but just with the displacement increase, it raises it to 9.5:1. (this was assuming .040" deck height, and 56cc chambers, which I used to get the 9.1:1 factory compression)

The FS screams for rods and pistons. If I had an FS, I'd get custom pistons with a more recessed wrist pin, so you could use a slightly longer rod. Even 2mm would make a difference. It would raise the rod ratio from 1.47 to 1.49.

I still think the best bet would be to have an FP-DE, which has a 83mm bore and 85mm stroke. It has 144.2mm rods, giving a rod ratio of 1.7. A 2mm overbore would still give you 1929ccs from the FP too....something to think about, and would rev like an F1 car....well, that's an exaggeration...
 
Gen1GT said:
85mm pisons should raise compression to 9.5:1. Obviously with higher compression pistons, it would raise it more, but just with the displacement increase, it raises it to 9.5:1. (this was assuming .040" deck height, and 56cc chambers, which I used to get the 9.1:1 factory compression)

The FS screams for rods and pistons. If I had an FS, I'd get custom pistons with a more recessed wrist pin, so you could use a slightly longer rod. Even 2mm would make a difference. It would raise the rod ratio from 1.47 to 1.49.

I still think the best bet would be to have an FP-DE, which has a 83mm bore and 85mm stroke. It has 144.2mm rods, giving a rod ratio of 1.7. A 2mm overbore would still give you 1929ccs from the FP too....something to think about, and would rev like an F1 car....well, that's an exaggeration...
Click to expand...
thats what i have and what i plan to do when i get back from Korea.

do you mind giving a basic explanation of rod ratios and the like?
 
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*makes note to self about wrist pins depth for cutom pistons =)

mmmm another good thread. Now I have been looking at the FE3 mostly because it has 11mm or so between cyl walls making it safe for overbore?

how does the fs-de compare in wall thickness and how safe it is to do an overbore.
 
Call Jim @ Sunbelt Performance in Alanta. They build the Speed Vision Proteges....I am at work right now I give you the phone number tomorrow..
 
Hey great advice guys,sounds like overbore to 85mm (to be safe)is the way to go for me.Looks like I have alot of work for my machine shop as I plan for them to port match,port'n'polish the head while I have the motor open.

how aggressive of a cam can i go with a set up like this?

Damn I wish Mazda would have made a better engine for this car,IMO great platform to modify,just not the engine....
 
mp3moose said:
Isn't the FS-DE a stroked version of the 1.8?
Click to expand...
Yep. Which is why you wouldn't want to stroke the FS any more.

hi-perf, rod ratio is the ratio between the engine's rod, and it's stroke. For the FS, the rod ratio is 1.47:1(135.2mm rods and 92mm stroke). Which means the rod is 1.47 times the length of the stroke. There are so many things that are affected by your rod ratio. Pretty much everything actually, so I'll refer you to a web page to explain it better. Install knows more about rod ratios than me too.

http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/engine-tech/rod-ratio/


..and here's a rod ratio calculator
http://www.dunegoon.org/rod_ratio.html
 
Hey wait dude...I forgot the formula to even find the rod ratio not too long ago...

But Gen1 is right... the rod ratio of an engine is responsible for so many different things it should be mentioned by car companies along side the displacement...The FS's is extremely low...and the main thing associated with a low rod ratio is extremely high piston speeds at a given crank rpm (when compared to an identically "displaced" engine with a higher rod ratio)...

So the FS has discustingly fast piston speeds even at 6000rpm...The higher the piston speeds, the bigger the valves gallies and runners need to be to allow air in quickly (and thus breathe...something the stock FS blows at...and the valve size is restricted by our 83mm bore...you can make them bigger, but not hugely bigger)...fast piston speeds also cause balance and sound issues...as well as longevity problems...

But it does have advantages obviously...a low rod raio'd engine's pistons are traveling faster at lower rpm than a higher rod ratio'd engines...which makes for perfect (or near it) volumetric efficiency available at lower rpm than the higher rod ratio engine..thus making excellent lowend torque for a little longer...There are some other things involved with all this, but that should give anyone a general understanding of it...
 
Lower rod ratios will give you better throttle response too, because the piston reaches maximum velocity early in the power stroke. You can also run more ignition advance, because the piston doesn't dwell at TDC very long. It also means they're less prone to detonation in general because of that fact. Cam timing has to be tuned to take advantage of a short rod too. Less top dwell, more bottom dwell.

The FS has great torque potential, which is why it works so well when boosted. Too bad they didn't make stronger rods from the factory. Long stroke and short rod ratio are good for low RPM power. But rev too high, and the piston can travel faster than the flame front.
 
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