Split Second Problems

[ogsp5]

In the last few weeks there has been a number of posts with members have problems with the S.S afc. Yes, it could be the tune the car is running, and could be many ofter problems ie vacuum leaks. WGA problems to name a few. But there are a few members like myself that have the problem with start-up when the car is at operating temp.
I know you cannot tune around closed loop ( stock MSP ecu ). But no matter what I do I cannont get the car to start properly when hot. I am at the piont of taking out the SS, just use the stock ecu and FCD. I am not running a lot of boost, but dam like evertime I start the car I wonder how it is going to drive.
The car was driving great up to the point when I lost the engine a few months back. The car pull ed great and a few times I had up over 120. So what is the difference now.

 

[sprinter119]

I will subscrizzle to this post. I have not tuned my SS but i am interested to see what information the tuning gurus have.

 

[43975]

When you say lost engine...I'm assuming it blew. Was the engine rebuild, or replaced with new, used, or rebuilt. Who did the work? and was any eletrical messed with during the install. Maybe the issue lies there and not on the Split Second/ ECU. A crossed wire or failed relay elsewhere in the system may be your issue.

 

[GiJoe]

+1 on the subsription... I was planning on the SSAF/TC but I havent really researced it so this is goo for me to hear, for the right tunning option for me and the MSP

 

[ogsp5]

When you say lost engine...I'm assuming it blew. Was the engine rebuild, or replaced with new, used, or rebuilt. Who did the work? and was any eletrical messed with during the install. Maybe the issue lies there and not on the Split Second/ ECU. A crossed wire or failed relay elsewhere in the system may be your issue.

Engine was replaced with a JDM unit. All electrical systems were checked. I did have a exhaust leak, no vacuum or boost leaks. I am going to have the SS unit checked next week. I am going to disconnect the unit from the MAF and see what happens. There was a mention that the SS unit only has a 1 yr warranty not life time.

 

[magnumP5]

It's weird that a lot of people are coming up with AFC/FTC problems. While I don't know much about the FTC install and if it's any different, I've had my AFC installed since October '07 and I've not had a single problem with it. So either the latest units are screwed up or you people aren't installing them or setting them up correctly. The only "bad" thing my AFC does is mess with the idle after I've reset the ECU. After about 5 minutes of driving everything is fine again.

 

[ogsp5]

I have reset the ECU but the problem is still there. I even loaded a map sent to me from James. There is another post in this section by Wingman, he has the same problem.

 

[slo03.5msp]

You are talking about a problem with idleing on hot start?!?!?!? I have this problem as well. It never happend with stock injectors. It has only happend since I moved to 440's. It idles like poo for about 30 seconds to a minute and then it clears out and everything is fine. I however have not had this problem with my colder plugs. It only seems to happen with the hotter ones I run in the winter. I am just assuming it's because I have not been able to tune through vacuum. As soon as I have the time and money I will be getting on a dyno to tune the whole map.

 

[magnumP5]

Ah, hot start - I should clarify. For some reason, only from hot starts, if I start the car and let it sit and idle for a while it will go lean (16.0:1). Again, this is only if I start the car after it's already been warmed up and just let it sit there. If I start the car and am moving or have applied some throttle within 10-20 seconds there are no problems.

 

[ogsp5]

There you go. If I do that the car runs great. That is why I wonder what is the minimum fuel pressure can be run on 440.

 

[MSpeedFreak03]

wow i just ordered my SS FTC, and now im sceptical on its abilities, i just built my engine and i dont want to blow it!

 

[magnumP5]

There you go. If I do that the car runs great. That is why I wonder what is the minimum fuel pressure can be run on 440.

I don't have 440's - still stuck with stock. In all truth, I really don't have any reason to restart the car while it's hot and just let it sit there. I actually haven't let it do it in a very long time so I have no idea if it'll still do it. But aside from the idle after hot start and after a battery reset everything is perfectly fine with the AFC. I've had great success with tuning and my AFR's are nice and conservative (11.5:1) at WOT.

 

[ogsp5]

Now the car is running very rich, right off the gauge --- on the wide band. So I am going back tomorrow to take out some fuel.

 

[magnumP5]

^^^ What wideband do you have? I have the AEM UEGO and "---" on mine means really, really lean (above 18:1).

 

[DubbyDoo]

still havent figured my bug out yet. runs good cold as soon as it warms up idles like s*** and stalls, once it stalls its hard to start...

 

[ogsp5]

I have a AEM wide band. It does it both for very rich (below 10) and very lean (above 18 )

 

[magnumP5]

I have a AEM wide band. It does it both for very rich (below 10) and very lean (above 18 )

Yours new? I've had mine since January '07 and for anything below 10:1 mine will read 10.0, not "---". Perhaps they've changed something?

 

[ogsp5]

Yours new? I've had mine since January '07 and for anything below 10:1 mine will read 10.0, not "---". Perhaps they've changed something?

It's about 7 months old.

 

[MSpeedFreak03]

wow this is something that needs to get figured out 18.0 AFR WOW

 

[HondaEat-R]

Engine temp sensor. One for the stock engine temp heat gauge, one goes to the ECU and actually does something productive. This happened in my old Sentra Se-R. Ran fine cold, hit a certain temp, stuttered, stunk like fuel, stalled, ..didn't wanna start back up. Flooded essentially. Try this, because the sensors are usually cheap.