Off Topic So slow I'm ashamed...
- Thread starter Unobtanium
- Start date
- :
- South Carolina
- :
- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
If I had a traditional air cooler, then yes, rear would be the exhaust. But because I'm water cooled, you want that fan blowing in (according to everything I've read).
Besides, because of the case design, there's plenty of extra exhaust from all of the vents above the card slots.
- :
- Denver, CO
You're working against the intake of the front that way, but you are probably getting slightly cooler air to the radiator, but not sure it's much. Personally I'd flip it, but that's just me.
7eregrine
The man, the myth, the legend
- :
- Land of Cleve
- :
- 2016.5 CX5
You OK, bro? Where you been? LOL I was waiting for you to reply because...
It'll be fine, it certainly doesn't hurt anything. My thinking here is even if exhausting the back somehow does get MORE dust inside your case.... people like us occasionally check our cases to make sure they don't need a quick cleaning.
#Geek
I knew you'd agree with me.
It'll be fine, it certainly doesn't hurt anything. My thinking here is even if exhausting the back somehow does get MORE dust inside your case.... people like us occasionally check our cases to make sure they don't need a quick cleaning.
#Geek
- :
- Denver, CO
I'm good, just not been good at keeping up with most of my forums lately.You OK, bro? Where you been? LOL I was waiting for you to reply because...
I knew you'd agree with me.
It'll be fine, it certainly doesn't hurt anything. My thinking here is even if exhausting the back somehow does get MORE dust inside your case.... people like us occasionally check our cases to make sure they don't need a quick cleaning.
Bought a $20 HD 6850 for the Cheapaz Chips competition on HWBot. Now looking to pick up some stuff for voltage modding from Elmor Labs for it.
As for gaming, I finally tried Cyberpunk. Looks good, but crashed a lot for some reason. Replaying Subnautica.
Last edited:
- :
- Denver, CO
Well been wanting to start building an open air test/OC bench. To that end, I scored a killer deal on a used EVGA Z790 Kingpin board to be the foundation. I think might hold out till 14th gen comes out to get a CPU though as its a Raptor Lake refresh so should be on same socket and chipset.
Will take me a while to get all the parts for this, but looking forward to it.
Will take me a while to get all the parts for this, but looking forward to it.
- :
- RDX Aspec Adv.
Well, my 1080TI I think was dying. I got this screen a few times...
Ss reluctantly, I replaced it with a 4060Ti. It uses a TON less power, and benchmarks out a hair better. Here is my original system benchmark as set up in 2017, then with my 1080Ti in 2019, and today, my 4060Ti.
2017
2019
2023
I purchased the 4060Ti in hopes of maybe a small performance bump, but mainly because it was $400 and would run MUCH cooler and on less power than my failing 1080Ti. What impresses me most is that the 4060Ti is a VERY new card, and NVIDIA is treating it as mid-tier, and the 1080Ti still hangs right there with it pretty much, even though it's half a decade older.
Before I pulled the 1080Ti, I ran the benchmark on Ghost Recon: Breakpoint with it. Everything maxxed out at 1440p:
Then I ran the 4060Ti, same:
You can be impressed by 2018 technology holding up super well to 2023 technology, or you can be impressed that after half a decade of COVID inflation, you can get about the same performance for 1/3 the price burning 1/2-2/3 the electricity.
PS: The 1080Ti is up for sale, with the full disclosure that I DO NOT GUARANTEE IT TO WORK. I DID provide the above benchmark minutes before it was pulled, though. I have been told that if you add thermal paste/replace it, it could fix this. It provides the messed up frozen screen/system initially pictured after gaming for a while and tabbing in/out of game. Price is obviously negotiable and I am open to offers. Again, this card is guaranteed to HAVE A PROBLEM. The severity of which, I am ignorant of and just detailed above. If you take a brick out of the bag, that's on you, but I've been transparent about it and no takesie backsies.
Ss reluctantly, I replaced it with a 4060Ti. It uses a TON less power, and benchmarks out a hair better. Here is my original system benchmark as set up in 2017, then with my 1080Ti in 2019, and today, my 4060Ti.
2017
2019
2023
I purchased the 4060Ti in hopes of maybe a small performance bump, but mainly because it was $400 and would run MUCH cooler and on less power than my failing 1080Ti. What impresses me most is that the 4060Ti is a VERY new card, and NVIDIA is treating it as mid-tier, and the 1080Ti still hangs right there with it pretty much, even though it's half a decade older.
Before I pulled the 1080Ti, I ran the benchmark on Ghost Recon: Breakpoint with it. Everything maxxed out at 1440p:
Then I ran the 4060Ti, same:
You can be impressed by 2018 technology holding up super well to 2023 technology, or you can be impressed that after half a decade of COVID inflation, you can get about the same performance for 1/3 the price burning 1/2-2/3 the electricity.
PS: The 1080Ti is up for sale, with the full disclosure that I DO NOT GUARANTEE IT TO WORK. I DID provide the above benchmark minutes before it was pulled, though. I have been told that if you add thermal paste/replace it, it could fix this. It provides the messed up frozen screen/system initially pictured after gaming for a while and tabbing in/out of game. Price is obviously negotiable and I am open to offers. Again, this card is guaranteed to HAVE A PROBLEM. The severity of which, I am ignorant of and just detailed above. If you take a brick out of the bag, that's on you, but I've been transparent about it and no takesie backsies.
Last edited:
- :
- South Carolina
- :
- 12 MZ5 13 CX-5
Well, my 1080TI I think was dying. I got this screen a few times...
Is the card overclocked? Because this can happen when pushing it too far. Dial it back to stock frequencies, and this may go away.
- :
- RDX Aspec Adv.
It's a stock EVGA SC2.
- :
- Denver, CO
What your screen is doing right now is called artifacting. The only way a repaste/repad is going to maybe fix that is if the source of the problem is overheating. But if the source of the problem is overheating, then that damage could be cumulative over time. I don't suppose you ever tried any utilities like MSI Afterburner to see what your temps were under full gaming load? If it's not an overheating problem then the GPU is 100% dying. As long as you are selling that as a dying card or for parts only (and price reflects that), then that shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't try to sell that for whatever working used 1080 Ti's are going for.Well, my 1080TI I think was dying. I got this screen a few times...
Ss reluctantly, I replaced it with a 4060Ti. It uses a TON less power, and benchmarks out a hair better. Here is my original system benchmark as set up in 2017, then with my 1080Ti in 2019, and today, my 4060Ti.
2017
2019
2023
I purchased the 4060Ti in hopes of maybe a small performance bump, but mainly because it was $400 and would run MUCH cooler and on less power than my failing 1080Ti. What impresses me most is that the 4060Ti is a VERY new card, and NVIDIA is treating it as mid-tier, and the 1080Ti still hangs right there with it pretty much, even though it's half a decade older.
Before I pulled the 1080Ti, I ran the benchmark on Ghost Recon: Breakpoint with it. Everything maxxed out at 1440p:
Then I ran the 4060Ti, same:
You can be impressed by 2018 technology holding up super well to 2023 technology, or you can be impressed that after half a decade of COVID inflation, you can get about the same performance for 1/3 the price burning 1/2-2/3 the electricity.
PS: The 1080Ti is up for sale, with the full disclosure that I DO NOT GUARANTEE IT TO WORK. I DID provide the above benchmark minutes before it was pulled, though. I have been told that if you add thermal paste/replace it, it could fix this. It provides the messed up frozen screen/system initially pictured after gaming for a while and tabbing in/out of game. Price is obviously negotiable and I am open to offers. Again, this card is guaranteed to HAVE A PROBLEM. The severity of which, I am ignorant of and just detailed above. If you take a brick out of the bag, that's on you, but I've been transparent about it and no takesie backsies.
As for your points on the 4060 Ti, the 1080 Ti absolutely hang up there with modern stuff for sure. The newest generations of cards have raised the prices so much beyond what is reasonable to expect for mere inflation that the needle for generational performance gain for same money just isn't there. For whatever you spent on the 1080 Ti, the needle just hasn't really moved much for upgrading performance significantly for the same money. That's largely due to Nvidia raising prices to reflect pandemic level margins with regards to the 40-series.
For the 40-series, most of the stack of cards are way screwed up on pricing and have also been completely misbranded for what they are in the stack. The 4080 uses a 379mm2 die which in any other generation would be considered solidly mid-range, and yet they are trying to sell it for 4080 Ti prices. The 4070 Ti has the performance characteristics of what were just base "70-class" non-Ti cards of the past (matching the previous gen's flagship). Yet they branded it a Ti and raised the price. The 4070 has a similar story as it's performance characteristics and cut down die used should have made it the 4060 Ti. And then there's the 4060 Ti. It uses the die that would typically be used for 60 or even a 50 Ti card, its performance characteristics are more of that of a typical "60-class" card. There is also the point many have made about 8GB cards being sold in 2023 for $400+ being absurd, but the point could also be made that it might not even matter depending on your use case and what you are playing.
All this to say, yeah on one hand I am impressed about the power you can get in much more efficient cards. The 3090 Ti was a 450W card (stock) and the 4070 Ti matches it at 285W (stock). On the other hand, the pricing is absolutely insane for what the cards actually are.
- :
- 2023 CX-5 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto
RIP 8/23:2013 CX-5 Sport FWD Auto 120k
I did a small refresh on my PC last week. I upgraded my Ryzen 3600 to a 5700, and I bumped my RAM from 32 GB to 64 GB with matching model numbers. 3 years old and still running strong.
Most annoying thing was my DisplayPort cable magically failed during the install. I plugged everything in and the computer wouldn’t post. VGA error. I was like you’ve got to be kidding me. I updated the BIOS and everything, what the hell could be wrong? Pulled the cable after reseating the GPU and passed post. Still couldn’t get a picture after several reboots and trying HDMI, and by some magic it finally providing video via HdMI.
I must be doing something wrong with the PBO and curve optimizer though. I tried multiple settings to overclock and I was actually getting worse Cinebench scores. After a few hours I gave up and reverted settings back to default in BIOS. Just running with that instead, no big deal.
Most annoying thing was my DisplayPort cable magically failed during the install. I plugged everything in and the computer wouldn’t post. VGA error. I was like you’ve got to be kidding me. I updated the BIOS and everything, what the hell could be wrong? Pulled the cable after reseating the GPU and passed post. Still couldn’t get a picture after several reboots and trying HDMI, and by some magic it finally providing video via HdMI.
I must be doing something wrong with the PBO and curve optimizer though. I tried multiple settings to overclock and I was actually getting worse Cinebench scores. After a few hours I gave up and reverted settings back to default in BIOS. Just running with that instead, no big deal.
- :
- Plano, Texas, USA
Precision Boost Overdrive. Allows you to go beyond default voltage values and boost the frequency for longer. Should be able to adjust the settings for it in the BIOS.
- :
- Denver, CO
PBO might give you better single core scores due to higher single core boosts, but the best scores for CB R23 multi-core will come from just doing the highest all-core OC you can get (limit being your cooling). That's how I got 24k on my 5900X while PBO+CO was at best giving me 22-23k.
That said, I wouldn't leave it on an all core OC for daily driving if you do things like game because then you are sacrificing the single core boosts from PBO+CO.
At least that has been my experience with the 5900X. You'll probably have an easier time than me with the 5700 due to the single CCD design. The 5900X is functionally two 5600X's on the same package (dual CCD design), and the first CCD is much better binned than the second CCD on mine.
Ultimately I gave up trying to manually do anything with Curve Optimizer and getting stable 24/7 results with it. Something always ended up exposing instability with my negative voltage offsets I set manually even after painstaking stability testing. At this point I put that back to Auto with PBO just set to be auto with +200 MHz offset, which should help your single core boosting.
Going forward, I plan to stick with Intel for the machines I want to OC with, and AMD X3D maybe for daily drivers I want to just set and forget. My test bench for instance now has a 13900KS on it. I would never run that power hog on a daily driver, but its much more interesting for tinkering.
