Santa is comin Early.....AFC GB....

Status
Not open for further replies.
For you maybe but try plugging a vaccum hose at -20 Celcius.. it's as flexible as a cooper piping. So I'm gonna wait until early April when the weather is gonna be more suitable for a proper installation with pictures for an how-to.
 
lcruz64 said:
Come on guys is a fairly easy install get off the couch and do it.

My wife and I just had our first baby girl, and I got in-laws in visiting. I did atleast buy my vac hoses. I am sooo afraid of plugging it all up and having the car **** up on me LOL! Then I wouldn't ba able to get everyone back to the airport.

My paranoia stems from the fact that DSM richened it up baseed on my mods and I am hoping it is not too much.
 
quick question for the install.

Since I have a boost gauge in the cabin already can I just tap in on it to get a boost source? Would be less troubblesome than running another hose all the way into the engine bay. Can somebody confirm this can actualy work?
 
my boost gauge uses a very small coffee stir-like hose. if this is what yours uses, no. 5/32 vacuum hose will work though. i had to take the battery and battery tray and everything out to drill a hole in the firewall near the big rubber deal on the driver`s side with all the other wires goin through it. if you are going to drill a new hole, leeave a decent amount of room in betwen it and any other existing holes in the firewall. the hole will just get caught up in the existing hole and fudge everything up.

SpeedBeaver said:
quick question for the install.

Since I have a boost gauge in the cabin already can I just tap in on it to get a boost source? Would be less troubblesome than running another hose all the way into the engine bay. Can somebody confirm this can actualy work?
 
protegeric said:
my boost gauge uses a very small coffee stir-like hose. if this is what yours uses, no. 5/32 vacuum hose will work though. i had to take the battery and battery tray and everything out to drill a hole in the firewall near the big rubber deal on the driver`s side with all the other wires goin through it. if you are going to drill a new hole, leeave a decent amount of room in betwen it and any other existing holes in the firewall. the hole will just get caught up in the existing hole and fudge everything up.
I used REAL vaccum hose when I installed my boost gauge, not the crappy one Autometer included. In montreal going from what 50 Celcius to -20 Celcius in winter once the engine cools down, that little crappy hose would have cracked and leaked.
 
ah, i dont have to worry about all that and i think the straw-like hose works good for the gauge. so, i would say yes you could T off of the boost gauge hose. mine is right upstream from my boost gauge T, T-ed off the hose from the wastegate. if I did it wrong or used a wrong vacuum source, somoene please let me know.

SpeedBeaver said:
I used REAL vaccum hose when I installed my boost gauge, not the crappy one Autometer included. In montreal going from what 50 Celcius to -20 Celcius in winter once the engine cools down, that little crappy hose would have cracked and leaked.
 
i posted a whole how-to wiring harness. I was going to add a pic. of the vacuum part and putting it in my glovebox and woo! but hey, the more info/feedback the better... and by the way, it was perfect here today (about 72) and was in the 80`s last week. aaahh.......

SpeedBeaver said:
For you maybe but try plugging a vaccum hose at -20 Celcius.. it's as flexible as a cooper piping. So I'm gonna wait until early April when the weather is gonna be more suitable for a proper installation with pictures for an how-to.
 
shouldnt need to drill a hole. We ran the 3 of ours through the wiring harness hole on the passenger side...plenty of room to run the hose for the afc and a line for the boost gauge. THe added bonus is its comes out right by the glove box and ecu so you dont have to run hoses all under the dash...You CAN use the boost flimsy line, but I'd rec. running a separate, or atlest t'ed near the nipple on the manifold. Its a hit and miss situation, while smaller diameter hoses require less volume change to change values, hence faster readings, if they spring even the tiniest leak it has a MAJOR effect on the values, whereas a bigger hose has a little, and i mean microscopic, "lag", but allows a little buffer room with small leaks and such...hope that makes atleast a little sense...
 
yeah i have an autometer that uses coffe stirrer like hose. i just teed off the hose twice, once for the AFC and once for the gauge, so now my boost gauge is telling me EXACTLY how much boost the AFC thinks i'm getting.


I LOVE MY AIRFLOW AFC!
 
Done. Runs like a champ. Probably just a few extra dropplets being squirted than necessary. One thing I am excited about is that I can sleep better knowing that I am no longer using the FCD.

I guess I should sell it. I am too lazy to do the FS thread right now, but if someone wants a Joe P. FCD let me know.

Now I just need to get my laptop hooked up and do a datalog. With a NB I guess I won't be able to do too much tuning, but oh well.
 
kicker22705 MAY know how to hook a WB up to the Split Second AFC.

genius said:
Done. Runs like a champ. Probably just a few extra dropplets being squirted than necessary. One thing I am excited about is that I can sleep better knowing that I am no longer using the FCD.

I guess I should sell it. I am too lazy to do the FS thread right now, but if someone wants a Joe P. FCD let me know.

Now I just need to get my laptop hooked up and do a datalog. With a NB I guess I won't be able to do too much tuning, but oh well.
 
OK... then using a NB, how far do we trust it? The NB is only accurate for a short span of the AFR range. How rich should it read before I take fuel out of the mix?

Tehre are no Dynos near the pan handle in FL...
 
Update!!! PLEASE RESPOND ASAP:)

I found a dyno shop! I will be taking it tomorrow around noon. The shop is going to install a WB and is willing to help me tune it. The guy said that he wants to shoot for a 11.5:1 ratio.

Is this what you guys are running?

Secondly, he isn't familiar with the R4 tuning software but between us we should be able to figure it out. He is going to install it on his computer.

What we want to avoid is running toomany dyno runs and stressing the car. If we can get away with 2 runs that would be best.

Here is our question, suppose we see the AFR around 10:1. If we wanted to adjust it to say 11, how much do we need to adjust the MAF voltage? If the cell is at say 9.5 at the specified RPM, and we want to make it leaner by 1 point, should we change the cell to 9 or 9.3 or 9.4... How sensitive is this adjustment?

Please respond as quickly as possible. Thank you!
 
Last edited:
genius said:
I found a dyno shop! I will be taking it tomorrow around noon. The shop is going to install a WB and is willing to help me tune it. The guy said that he wants to shoot for a 11.5:1 ratio.

Is this what you guys are running?

Secondly, he isn't familiar with the R4 tuning software but between us we should be able to figure it out. He is going to install it on his computer.

What we want to avoid is running toomany dyno runs and stressing the car. If we can get away with 2 runs that would be best.

Here is our question, suppose we see the AFR around 10:1. If we wanted to adjust it to say 11, how much do we need to adjust the MAF voltage? If the cell is at say 9.5 at the specified RPM, and we want to make it leaner by 1 point, should we change the cell to 9 or 9.3 or 9.4... How sensitive is this adjustment?

Please respond as quickly as possible. Thank you!

Bump.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

New Threads and Articles

Back