rear brakes

I got mine from Rishie @ auto rnd. I bought the lines, rotors, and pads all for 525 USD shipped. I think the pads alone were 145 ish. I have so much more force in my pedal now. And my old rotors and pads really weren't bad at all. I will reuse them at some point probably.

Moose
 
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hey does anyone knows what to do after you unscrew that allen bolt inside the caliper and the cilinder moves back, should you try to tighten that bolt back? or should you just leave it, i mean if you tighten the bolt it clamps onto the brakes and disk
 
I put it back and tightend it just enough to have pressure on it, then put the screw back on. Don't know if thats right, but I have brakes.

Moose
 
Thought I'd add to the thread:

"
Disc Pad Installation Note:
1. Turn the manual adjustment gear counterclockwise with an Allen wrench to pull the brake caliper piston inward. (Turn until it stops)
2. Install the disc pads
3. Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise until the brake pads just touch the disc plate. Turn the manual adjustment gear back 1/3-turn"

The manual is magical!
 
My rear brakes only lasted 25,000 miles but the salt here in the winter froze them They never completely backed off when the pedel was released.
 
im at 37,856 miles and as far as i know, me being the third owner, this is the first time any of the pads have been changed but my local good year dealer overtightened my lugs and warped my rotors, o'reilly said they could turn all four rotors for $36 but they said with the protege being a thin rotor they may crack under hard braking. Anyone have a suggestion on rotors to buy? i really dont want stock rotors because i believe i could get better ones for the same price or less. By the way i haven't heard anything back from the good year dealer about any compensation on my rotors, however they said they were willing to retighten my lugs to the proper amount for a mere $12:rolleyes:
 
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