Can't remove parking brake cable on rear caliper
- Thread starter pigvet
- Start date
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
There's no detail or pics in the OPs post to jump to that conclusion, but the two previous posters are for CX5. I don't that car but I can say for certain the Mazda 5 does NOT need anything cut to release the parking cable. If you are not able to snake the line out of the spring, try using a pair of wide mouth/long handle togue and grove plyers to keep the spring tension loaded so you can slide out the end cable. Also make sure parking brakes are NOT engaged (add tensions or shortens the brake line).I was about to ask exactly the same thing.
So physically destroying them is the only way
Good thing I purchased new ones, so no core return required.
Oh, getting the end cable free from the rotating mechanism isn't the issue at all.
Mostly 10 years of Canadian rust is what's keeping the cable "sleeve" frozen solid into the caliper. I'd rather destroy the caliper cores than risk needing parking cable replacements from the front.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Gotcha, I guess I cannot relate. I don't find seized parts due to weather (salt) an issue but I guess you folks have been there/done that -carry on.
EDIT:
If possible, could you post a before pic? Is it frozen together to that point where you can't delineate the sleeve from the housing? Can you see a slight/faint hairline? I can't image that rear getting enough heat to really fuse them together. Perhaps the result of a chemical reaction from your local road salt mix that is affecting the metal? However, if it can come out after cutting the mount, this tells me it is stubborn but not truly frozen.
Something to try, assuming it is not absolutely fused (melted) together. Dismount the caliper, and disengaged the end cable. Hang the caliper with the sleeve in a vertical position. Generously whack the mount, then apply penetrating oil and let it soak overnight (highly recommend Kroil). Being able to let gravity help the oil work can do wonders.
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I will make a new attempt at this in the next few weeks (too much stuff to deal with now). Some pics will be shared, but I'll make sure to try this idea before getting the grinder to them.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Did you take a pic of the 'other' end?
What I'd try before taking it to a grinder..
Remove caliper and rest it on a solid surface. Remove (replace) the slider pin boot. Hold the exposed sleeve with joint plyers with pressure in the opposite direction as you whack the mount with a few good hard hits. In reverse, I would hold the caliper body and "lightly" tap the metal sleeve in circular motion. The goal is hope to create some micro factures for the oil to work. Apply penetrating oil all around and leave it in vertical position where the flare end is facing down. Might take a little patience. You know grinding it out works and replacing hand brake line is not difficult -but the cost of the line might be more than a caliper!
