Protege5 rear brake issues

Would you recommend changing one caliper and bleeding that wheel before moving to the other side, or change both calipers and then bleed both sides?
or maybe it does not matter at all?
 
You are supposed to to a full bleed of all four brakes when ever any caliper is disconnected,... so you should do both then bleed once.

bleedbrakes_zpse91a04d1.png
 
Make sure you check your P-Brake lines for rusting and seizing,... check the connection point on the caliper where the P-Brake cable attaches,... it should rotate back and forth as the P-Brake handle is pulled and released.

That can also drag the rear brakes and the caliper stops self adjusting.
 
I am back. Finally replaced both rear calipers, with mixed results. First, the caliper (parking brake) adjustment screw adjustment works fine now, and it did not on one of the older calipers. But I still have the same problem - passenger side spins freely with minimal drag, but drivers side still seems to have more drag that it should. I can back off the p-brake screw excessively to free up the wheel, but then of course the parking brake does not work. When I properly adjust both sides, the drivers side still has noticeably more drag than the passenger side. any thoughts?
 
Did you 1) lubricate the slider pins and 2) adjust the p-brake screw per spec (finger tight, then loosen 1/3 of a turn)?
 
Hi Max- yes i lubricated the slider pins; the calipers came with new pins so i replaced those and lubricated with brake grease.
i did adjust the p-brake per spec, tighten til pads drag the rotor then back off 1/3 turn. That works perfectly on the passenger side, but if I do not back it off more on the drivers side i get some significant drag. i would say i am probably backed off a full turn on the drivers side.
 
Guys I need your help... I have 2002 P5 and just replaced all 4 rotor, all 4 brake pads, and both rear calipers.

I downloaded the service manual from the web and other buddies that are more knowledge about cars than I to help with the process.

I am having an issue with that rear passenger caliper:
The pads were dragging a lil too much - after driving less than 200 miles, i was going to wash my car, and noticed my rim was so hot, had it look at and turns out the new caliper was faulty.... they recommend replacing the caliper, the pads, brake line, and rotor.

2nd attempt:
- Got new pads, new caliper, new brake line.....
- retracted the caliper piston based on the service manual
Disc Pad Installation Note
1. Turn the manual adjustment gear
counterclockwise with an Allen wrench to pull the
brake caliper piston inward. (Turn until it stops.)

Question 1: What does it mean by until it stops.... does that mean until the piston doesn't appear to retract back any further or I can't turn counterclockwise any further? Cause I can still turn and it does nothing.

2. When I put everything together, there seem to be a bit of drag... so one friend recommend to clean off some rust/build up on the wheel hub. Repeat the same process and there was less drag. Bled the brakes....
Did a test run.... now brake petal hits the floor before stopping... ebrake barely stops car.


I have a 3d caliper coming in just in case tomorrow, but wanted to her some thoughts on my issue....
 
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Question 1: What does it mean by until it stops.... does that mean until the piston doesn't appear to retract back any further or I can't turn counterclockwise any further? Cause I can still turn and it does nothing.

The allen adjuster should tighten up when it pushes the pads till they hit the rotor,... If it doesn't tighten, the internals of the rebuilt caliper are screwed up,... My guess is that the internals aren't being replaced at the rebuild "factories" and they may not even know how to tell if they're worn or even test them,...

Did a test run.... now brake petal hits the floor before stopping... ebrake barely stops car.

You probably have some air left in the system or the calipers are so crapped out that your brake pedal is a sponge.
I remember North42 had to replace his brand new (rebuilt) caliper for the same reason.

,... and the E-brake on my car doesn't work any better than dragging my foot out the door when it's moving but it does hold me on a hill,... (I have new E-brake cables to install that may help a lot)


I have a 3d caliper coming in just in case tomorrow, but wanted to her some thoughts on my issue....

You will need that 3rd caliper ,... get ready to test that allen screw right in front of the sales clerk and don't leave the store till you get one that has an allen scew that does stop turning,... he may have to bring a few to the counter to find one that works,... we need better quality control for our rebuilds,... have the wrench and allen key with you,...


P.S.,... I'd be a little more that pissed at the company who rebuilt your caliper (or the parts store,..),... that cost you pads, brake line and maybe a caliper too,...
 
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Sorry bit confused on the answer, this is what I pulled from the service manual:

Disc Pad Installation Note
1. Turn the manual adjustment gear
counterclockwise with an Allen wrench to pull the
brake caliper piston inward. (Turn until it stops.)
2. Install the disc pads.
3. Turn the manual adjustment gear clockwise until
the brake pads just touch the disc plate. Turn the
manual adjustment gear back 1/3-turn.

When I do:
1. I have done this counterclockwise, but what does it mean by until it stops... Now I have done this to where the piston appears to stop moving back in but when turning it doesn't stop. I can keep turning till my hearts content.

3. I have done this to where it stops and max turning, the piston won't got out anymore.
 
Sorry bit confused on the answer, this is what I pulled from the service manual:

Disc Pad Installation Note
1. Turn the manual adjustment gear
counterclockwise with an Allen wrench to pull the
brake caliper piston inward. (Turn until it stops.)

I am almost positive that when turning the adjustment gear, the piston will pull in all the way to it's end, then the adjustment gear will get tight.

And,... When tightening the adjustment gear, the piston will push out until the pads hit the rotor then the adjustment screw gets tight again.

Your piston appears to be moving (perhaps not all the way) but your adjustment gear never gets tight,... It should,.

Does your adjustment gear get tight when pushing the pads onto the rotor ?? It should,.. that's how you know when to stop and back it off 1/3 of a turn,...
 
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