Protege5 rear brake issues

maytonh

Member
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
Hello-
I have been searching the forum for a few days looking for similar issues, but did not find an exact match.
I have a 2003 Protege5 and recently replaced brake pads on all four wheels.
On the rear I followed the guidance on using the threaded screw to back up the piston, and then tighten it/back off 1/2 turn to adjust the parking brake.
It all worked fine, or so I thought. After a couple of months I noticed a lot of brake dust on the driver's side rear wheel.
When I jacked it up, the brakes were dragging and it was very hard to rotate the wheel.
I removed everything to investigate and followed the same procedure as last time to re install and adjust the piston for the parking brake.
But when I tightened the piston against the pads until the wheel would not turn, then backed it it off 1/2 turn the wheel still would not move. It took five full turns before the wheel would free up and turn. I figured I didn't solve the problem, but a finished reassembling and drove around the block. When I came back and jacked it back up, the wheel was again very hard to rotate.
I loosened the bleeder valve but there was no change. I read that is a means to determine if the problem is a collapsed hose?
I found if I take a hammer and tap on the back of the caliper (light tapping, not *wham!*) the wheel then spins freely until i reapply the brakes.

Sure sounds like the piston is not retracting and its time to replace the caliper? But I wanted to be sure before I do that.

Thoughts? Thanks.
 
The stupid rear calipers bind up when the rear piston gets corroded and freezes. If you opened the bleeder valve and the piston didn't easily retract, then this is what happened. You will need a new caliper.

RockAuto.com will have the best prices, but AutoZone offers a lifetime warranty (here in the northeast, my car's rear calipers have a lifespan of 2-4 years). Very strongly consider replacing both calipers at the same time as you don't want this happening again in 6 months. You will also need new pads and possibly new rotors. If you only replace one caliper, be sure to at least lubricate the sliding pins on the other.
 
Thanks. Yes when I opened the bleeder there may have been very minimal change in the resistance, but nowhere near the wheel being completely free. I am looking at the AutoZone calipers for the warranty reason, and I do intend to change both. Regarding changing them, when i remove the brake line do I just let it drip? I saw a couple posts suggesting clamping the hose, but it seems that would be bad for the hose?
 
You'll have to bleed the brakes after installing the calipers anyway so you shouldn't bother clamping the hose.
 
Sure sounds like the piston is not retracting and its time to replace the caliper? But I wanted to be sure before I do that.

Thoughts? Thanks.

Don't forget the slider pins,... I grease mine every year. My rear calipers (and front for that matter) will drag if I don't grease them every year.

The pistons are fine and the pad on the piston will back off but the opposite pad will stay pressed on to the rotor because the slider pins are all corroded and sticky.

Your calipers may possibly be OK and it may be just the sliders.

If you do put on new calipers ,... make sure you grease the hell out of them,.. I put on new fronts and there was almost no grease on them ,.. same goes for the rear.
 
pcb makes a good point... the slider pins might just be corroded and cleaning/lubricating them might solve the problem. Greasing them yearly (brake grease) is a good idea.

If you do need to replace the calipers, don't just let the brake line drip--it will drip fast and air will enter the master cylinder/brake lines. That could make getting a good bleed more difficult since you'll have to bleed everything and not just the calipers. And don't clamp the hose--they're not designed for that and could be damaged. Rather, swap the brake line quickly from the old caliper to the new caliper (remember to use the 2 new crush washers provided. Later you can return the old caliper for the core charge.
 
OK. I am going to recheck and re grease the slider pins to be sure.
When I first did this job about six months ago, I did spend a lot of time on the pins though.
All four calipers were frozen on the pins and it took a lot of work and a lot of time to get them off.
I bought this car used, the brakes had not been touched in a long time.
I changed the pins on one of front calipers because it was so pitted i couldn't get it smooth again.

Also remember i had the problem of the caliper piston not backing off when i turn the adjusting screw.
 
In that case you're probably right that the problem is a frozen piston. I'm having the exact same issue right now with the driver's side rear caliper, after lubricating the slide pins 3 months ago.

To bleed the brakes I recommend using a Mityvac MV8000 hand held bleeder ($35) or comparable Mityvac product.
 
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I went to change the rear pads today and had to replace the passenger rear caliper. Got one from autozone for the warranty. Replaced it. While bleeding it, I noticed a small puddle on the floor. Leaking from around the parking brake mechanism. Autozone closed so I couldnt return it today... Ugh... cheap rebuilds. I was going to get one from advance auto but I read the reviews of people having leaking issues with their brand. So I went to vatozone... Btw, these calipers suck, what a crappy design...
 
Btw, you can gravity bleed the calipers without the use of a brake fluid bleeder or another person to pump the brakes...

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The calipers that autozone sell are rebuilt by Fenco. Fenco uses crappy seals. Advance auto also sells fenco calipers that also leak. You will find 9600 and 9601 as a part number for left and right. Just picked up a caliper from o'reilly that is rebuilt by cardone. And just found out Fenco went bankrupt and cardone purchased their assets... lol we are all screwed...
 
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Has worked for me for over 20 years... ha!
 
Also remember i had the problem of the caliper piston not backing off when i turn the adjusting screw.

This is a picture or the various clips springs and gizmo's inside our rear calipers,..

rearbrake_zps4d499c7c.jpg


As far as I know,... The internals are completely specific to our P5's, so I would figure even the dudes at the rebuild places would have a hard time figuring them out or even getting the replacement springs and stuff,...

There has been cases of brand new (rebuilt) rear calipers not working properly,...

P.S.... I have tried the gravity feed method before and I don't think I trust it,... I had a clear piece of tubing that had a small arch in it with a single bubble floating at the top. The bubble would not push though and the fluid would just flow around it.

I would assume that a bubble trapped at the top of an "arch" somewhere along the brake line length, would just stay there and not get "blown" or "pushed" through like it would with a firm push of the brake pedal,...

(the internal diameter of the brake line is smaller than that of the vinyl tubing so a bubble may be more inclined to flow along with the fluid and work it's way out ???)

I've watched the bubbles in the vinyl tubing before and they would blow down hill with the push of the brake pedal but would start to float back up the tube to the top when the pedal was released ??? I wonder if that sort of thing is happening inside the brake lines ???
 
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So is the consensus not to buy calipers from AutoZone? I was just about to do exactly that because of the warranty.
So if not Autozone, where? Is Cardone an acceptable brand? Besides O'Reilly's, the folks at NAPA told me once that their calipers were Cardone.

I don't understand the gravity bleed system yet, guess I need to go to YouTube :) I have always been the two person bleeder system.
 
On the Autozone web site, for part number C9600 and C9601, the product description says " Cardone s Friction Choice calipers include ....."
Could they have gone away from Fenco? Or just a bad product description?
 
The one I purchased at O'reillys was clearly marked as a cardone on the box. Same box as the one at autozone that leaked but had a different part number. Cardone purchased fenco, so autozone may still have new old stock as well as advance and napa.

When I did the bleeding on the cardone one I installed, a bunch of dark crap came out of the caliper, but cleared out as I bled it more. The cardone one did not leak, but will keep my eye on it.
 
When it comes down to aftermarket calipers, we can only guess what a good brand is... Last time I almost paid $300 for a Mazda reman caliper so I wouldn't have to deal with this again. I assume the OEM caliper can go 8 years or something before needing a rebuild. The $60 aftermarket ones seem to last 2-4 years... and because they bind when they fail, the pads/rotors have to be replaced also when one of the calipers goes. Would probably have been cheaper overall just to spring for the reman OEM unit... when you pay for quality, you cry only once.

The option that makes the most sense is to rebuild the caliper yourself using the Mazda caliper rebuild kit (it's $50 or so). The only tricky part is getting out that deeply recessed snap ring.
 
Is there any real advantage to buying calipers with a bracket?
I have to remove the caliper from the bracket to add grease and put in the pads, so I don't see that it will save me any installation time.
At NAPA there is only a $4.00 difference to get them with a bracket.
 
The only reason I'd get the bracket is if the original is significantly worn where the hardware mounts or if it's stuck on the caliper.
 
I had autozone rears for years with no issues. It's autozone not everything is good when you get it. When you buy it make sure the piston retracts while you're in the store I had 2 that were screwed up

Paint them so they don't rust and grease everything
 
I doubt it is the brake line. Unless the caliper is fine upon inspection (not likely...).

Just do the caliper first...
 
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