Protege Front Wheel Bearing Service - LOTS OF PICS

I'm in the process of replacing my other (driver's-side) wheel bearing now, and bought a 12 Ton shop press from Harbor Freight that looks just like the one used in this write-up. Thanks for those pictures! They are really going to help me out in the morning.

Mazda pop, with my previous front wheel bearing replacement, I had to replace the 5-bolt hub because I had waited so long that the cylinder was worn down by the bearing! Expensive....
 
This looks like it will be a nice addition to the toolset as well: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...Installer/_/N-264s?itemIdentifier=391360_0_0_

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Awesome write up. I have used it before, and used it earlier today.

I didn't have a pry bar so I used the stock jack to put pressure on the tie rod bolt. Then I used the jack handle to pull up using the sway bar as an anchor.
 
To get the axle out of the transmission, you can try a few things. One would be using either a pry bar, very large screw driver, or pickle fork, and tapping it between the trans and axle. Be careful though, as you don't want to puncture that end of the axle housing.
 
I did encounter this situation, and the only thing I could do was take the hub assembly to a shop and have them get the axle out. They heated up the end of the axle and used a slide hammer.
 
Oh hey, been a while since I've logged on. Glad its helping out. As for a stuck axle, I've soaked one with penetrant and destroyed two axle nuts (so I wouldn't mushroom the axle end) beating it with a 5 lb sledge till if finally broke loose. If the rust is severe enough heat may be the only option. Make sure you coat the splines with anit-sieze before re-installing to prevent the arse-whooping in the future.

I like the post about using dedicated press sets instead of sockets. Definitly good advice. I've made a plywood shield for those times when I was sure pieces were one pump away from exploding.
 
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In the end, the difficulty of pulling everything apart might not be worth your time and efforts. Just take it to a shop, eat the $250 for them to do it and tell them to anti-seize the axle.
 
Or I can see if mazmart has the knuckle/hub in stock and eat even less
 
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Ha, true enough. When my front axle was going bad I just bought an entire knuckle with axle from a scrap yard and just swapped out the entire unit. The front hubs are pricey though if you buy them new.
 
Great thread, once again. Have book marked this on as well as theone1's thread; http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123746487-How-To-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement

I will be tearing into this tomorrow, right before I move into a new house on Sat. Gooood times, lol.

Mine is in the front right and sounds very bad, I am afraid the hub condition will be beyond saving but we'll see. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience in hub replacement? Or at least a humorous story to entertain me as I go to battle?

Much thanks to Sethro & theone_1 for their hard work and documentation.
 
Agreed. I might be doing this again soon because my brake calipers seized and got the hub assemblies pretty hot.

This time will be different though, because I now know how to weld, so I'll be building a jig to hold the knuckle in place when I use the 12 ton press.
 
Great thread, once again. Have book marked this on as well as theone1's thread; http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123746487-How-To-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement

I will be tearing into this tomorrow, right before I move into a new house on Sat. Gooood times, lol.

Mine is in the front right and sounds very bad, I am afraid the hub condition will be beyond saving but we'll see. Does anyone have any knowledge or experience in hub replacement? Or at least a humorous story to entertain me as I go to battle?

Much thanks to Sethro & theone_1 for their hard work and documentation.

How about the one where a 40 ton press could not press my axle out of the knuckle when I did my wheel bearings? Lol
 
I did mine yesterday and had inner and outer seals. Should I not use any on my 02 P5 without the drain hole?
 
Inner and outer seals? Not sure I follow what you're saying. Since you're mentioning the drain hole, I am guessing you are referring to the back side of the knuckle, and the rubber seal that you tap in and seals against the axle. You want to use these always, because they protect the wheel bearing from debris. If you have the drain hole, fill it with RTV.
 
Oh the outer part I thought was a seal but was part of the Bearing. I had rust on one of the bearings probably cause by the seal trapping water in there.
 

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