Protege Front Wheel Bearing Service - LOTS OF PICS

sethro_GT

Member
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88 323GT, 03 P5, 07 M5
I did the right side last weekend and there was no change to the WAH WAH WAH WAH noise coming from the front end. So I started freaking out and thinking its bent wheel, broke tires, yadda yadda. This morning I jacked it up and ran it in forth gear and listened with my stethoscope. Sure enough the noise was coming from the left side bearing. I swore it was the right but my wife said "I thought it was the left all along". Guess I should have asked her oppinion, usually women can discern noise direction way better than men, at least in my experience. Anyway, after having had my @#!*% kicked by the right side and purchasing a real press to complete it, I tackled the left side today and took pictures. This time went A LOT better. I consulted the manual and was delighted to find that my techniques on the right were not too far off par. So here's what I did to do the left.

Items it would have sucked to not have:
-a good press
-a 3/4" socket set (a lot of use on the press)
-5' piece of 1" black pipe, the uber breaker bar.
-chisel and punch
-2lb ballpien, you need the oomph.
-torque wrench
-factory manual for torque specs
The rest is just usual tools like sockets, wrenches and pliers.

1. Jacked up the car. I chose the crossmember as I use jackstands on the side.
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2. Removed the wheel and pushed out the center cap. This is to give acces for the axle nut using my breaker bar.
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3. Used a punch to raise the divot on the axle nut.
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4. Reinstalled the wheel, lowered it and used a breaker bar to loosen the nut.
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5. Raised it up again, placed a jackstand and removed the wheel.
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6. Pulled the brake hose clip
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7. Took the caliper off, the top bolt is tricky, had to use an extension. The morons at Les Schwabb put red loktite on it (brake service before I bought the car).
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8. Hung the caliper out of the way
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9. Took the balljoint bolt out.
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10. Used a soft hammer to break the rotor loose and remove
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11. Took out the tierod cotter pin and nut. Once I straighten the bent sides, use the side cutters to "lever" the pin out, its the easiest way and if I sqeeze gentle enough the pin can be reused.
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12. Using a 30" pry bar I pry up on the tie rod end and bang the knuckle (right by the tirerod) with a 2lb ballpein. Works every time, takes 5 to 15 blows with the hammer before it pops loose. Gotta brace myself when it gives I'll go flailing backward if I'm not ready
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13. Use a puller and penetrating lube on the axle, I have never done this before and it worked like a champ on the right. Thanks to the member who suggested it on another thread. This axle didn't require the puller but I put it on for example.
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14. Removed the strut bolts.
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15. Put a large cold chisel in the balljoint slit to spread the knuckle and then lift the assembly off the balljoint.
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** Here I it was very easy to feel and hear that the bearing was toast. A nice grinding feel and noise when spinning the hub.

16. Propped the knuckle tierod flange on a 2x6 and placed a socket that was slighly smaller in diameter than the HUB and gave it a few strong blows with the 2lb hammer till it fell out.
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17. Used needlenose pliers to remove the retaining ring and sprayed penetrating lube all over the bearing.
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18. Placed the knuckle on the press plates and selected a socket that fit the INNER RACE.
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19. It wouldn't budge and I don't like loading up a 12 ton press with no movement. So I took the knuckle out and repeated what I did at step 16 for the hub on the inner race till I saw the bearing move a few thousandths. Then I knew the seizure was busted.

20. Set it back in the press and out it came
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21. Used the dremel to cut the race left on the hub off. This is the manual recommended way and there is no other, trust me. If you mess up for some reason and have to press the hub out with the new bearings it won't affect it, just press the hub back in and it'll be fine. I did this on the right side as I pressed the bearing onto the hub before putting it in the knuckle; which makes it impossible to put the retaining ring back in....
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22. Once cut, chiseled it at an angle till it popped and slid it off.
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23. Cleaned up the parts
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24. Notice there was NO WHEEL SEAL from the factory, which explains why these are a common fail. There is a wheel seal available and I would suggest using it. The bore for it was all rusted and nasty so I wire brushed it to shininess.
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25. All clean, I "honed" it with scotchbrite and wire wheel followed by a wash with soapy water and blow dry. The bearing bore is so tight that you want it absolutely clean, any amount of dirt will cause the bearing to bind while pressing in and it'll be a @#!*% . Get it clean, period. Soapy water is the best method, oil and solvents will hold particles on the surface.
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26. Gave it a spray of lube, lined everything up perfect and started to press. Went something like this pump pump pump POP, pump pump pump POP, each pop it would go down about 1mm.
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27. Once it was flush with the knucke I used an old bearing to push it the rest of the way.
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28. Pressing complete, the ring groove is fully exposed and put the ring in.
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30. Now selected socket that fit the INNER RACE and another that held the hub square, then proceeded to press the hub in.
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31. Wheel seal part number and installed it in the clean bore.
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32. Notice the "drain" groove from the factory and how it defeats the seal I just installed. I filled it with high temp RTV.
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33. The knuckle is complete. Since it never had an seal, the axle seal surface needed a good cleaning. 150grit and a wirewheel. Notice the anti-seize on the balljoint and axle splines.
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34. See how the wheel seal is going to protect the bearing now. There's some talk of why there isn't a seal in subsequent posts.
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35. I like to have my wheels mount as flush as possible so I bust all the rust off of the hub, rotor and wheel.
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36. Button it all up and double check all that I took loose. Put the wheel on lowered the car.
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37. Set the torque wrench to its max setting of 150 ft/lbs, and it didn't put the axle nut back to its original location, as expected.
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38. Got the 5'pipe out and gave a couple tweeks till it was lined up with its original divot and re-divot'd it.
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39. Put the center cap on and take 'er for a spin. Noise is gone, smooth as butter, better mpg on the way.
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on a side note, did you know that there are very few nerve endings in the skin between the knuckles? This didn't even hurt.
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EDIT---------------------------
Created this after a request for some details. This may help show how the whole thing is setup and you can see why it is the way it is.

MAZDAWHEELBEARINGCROSSSECTION.jpg
 
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HAHAHA, look at the size of that cheater pipe! An excellent write-up! Had you posted this two months ago, I would have replaced both bearings on my Pro myself.
 
Indeed, I should have bought the 3/4" socket set and the cheater 10 years ago. Have made life easy soo many times in month I've owned them.
 
Is that a legitimate jack point on the car? That is, it won't cause any damage to jack it by the front longitudinal cross-member?
 
Just realized, shouldn't there be an outer wheel seal as well? Nothing to protect that side of the bearing. Hub looks like it has a sealing surface bevel to it. Perhaps the inner seal will work for the outer as well. Anyone know anything?
 
Just realized, shouldn't there be an outer wheel seal as well? Nothing to protect that side of the bearing. Hub looks like it has a sealing surface bevel to it. Perhaps the inner seal will work for the outer as well. Anyone know anything?

There is no outer wheel seal. I find it interesting that the OP filled in the drain hole and installed a wheel seal, though. There is a TSB floating around for 2001 Proteges and earlier, which all had the wheel seals and the steering knuckle with no drain hole. Basically, the TSB said that this wheel seal was actually causing premature bearing failure, because it trapped water and road gunk inside the knuckle. 2002 Proteges and P5s were "fixed" by eliminating the wheel seal and installing an updated steering knuckle with a "drain" hole.

Great pics though, and a very nice write-up. This is exactly how I did mine, and it is not hard if you have access to a press. One thing I would suggest to add is that you stick the new bearings in the freezer prior to pressing so that they shrink slightly and go in easier. Also, I usually just stick a jack underneath my tie rod at about the spot where you have your pry bar, that way I don't go flying backwards when it gives :)
 
BTW, was that a Wal-Mart torque wrench? It looks just like the one I have. $24.99 baby!
 
There is no outer wheel seal. I find it interesting that the OP filled in the drain hole and installed a wheel seal, though. There is a TSB floating around for 2001 Proteges and earlier, which all had the wheel seals and the steering knuckle with no drain hole. Basically, the TSB said that this wheel seal was actually causing premature bearing failure, because it trapped water and road gunk inside the knuckle. 2002 Proteges and P5s were "fixed" by eliminating the wheel seal and installing an updated steering knuckle with a "drain" hole.

Great pics though, and a very nice write-up. This is exactly how I did mine, and it is not hard if you have access to a press. One thing I would suggest to add is that you stick the new bearings in the freezer prior to pressing so that they shrink slightly and go in easier. Also, I usually just stick a jack underneath my tie rod at about the spot where you have your pry bar, that way I don't go flying backwards when it gives :)

the seal trapped water in there which caused wheel bearing corrosion and axles seizing into the hubs... mazda deleted the seal, and integrated the seal INTO the bearing itself (which WORKS) and notched a hole for water to drain

this is why ONLY OEM wheel bearings be installed on 02.5 thru 03s... aftermarket bearings DO NOT have this unique design and will FAIL... aftermarket bearings are bidirectional and do not have such a water seal on one side.... OEM bearings are unidirectional and do have the water seal



and to comment on the parts removal procedures.... how n00bish? there's an impact gun and it wasn't used to blast off the axle nut? rethreading the axle nut on and giving the axle end a couple of blows with a sledge hammer will pop it off the hub! there is also no need for any prying whatsoever in the ball joint and outer tierods! you hit the knuckle itself with a hammer next to where the tierod/ball joint goes in and it will pop off!

the axle nut is also NOT reusable and a new one should ALWAYS be used
 
Slavrenz,
Interesting about the seal TSB. Most cars use a wheels seal on both sides, as far as I know. Perhaps they redesigned the whole knuckle when the reality was a they had a poor seal design. Or the water and debri migrated through the bearing from the unsealed outer side. Either way I'll leave it as is. If it fails in less than 100k then I'll leave em off next time. I actually did put it in the freezer but when i took it out the water in the air froze to the outer race and became quite thick. I let it warm up as I didn't want to pull all that moisture into the bore. Good advice to jack the tierod (2thumbs).

TheMan,
I used anti-seize on the axle splines and bought aftermarket bearings that without the OEM integrated seal need the wheel seals.

My impact is old and weak, the 3/8" rubber hose doesn't help either, not enough air flow. I've fought many a axle nut that was seized and NO IMPACT I tried busted em loose. Cut em in two or use a 5' cheater, I have a cheater.

I wanted to reuse the nut, I didn't have another to replace it. Hence the cheater and no bashing with a hammer. The manufacturer recommends replacing to cover their ass. If the lock tab isn't mangled then its ok to reuse IMO. Done it MANY times without failure. This was the first time I used a puller to push the axle out, on the right side which was seized (so much for the drain hole) and it worked awsome, would still recommend it.
 
Nice writeup indeed! Now where did you source that press? Also, the cotter pin re-use is so tempting, but I only do that as a temporary measure if I don't have the right size. It's a very cheap part that I don't want to fail if the nut loostens. Buy an assortment. And yeah, I ditched my old impact wrench and got an Ingersoll Rand. Now I always wear safety glasses tho, cause I'm sure it would shatter a lame socket if it wants to.
 
Slavrenz, the wrench was free, gift many years ago but yeah its a cheapo. I have a craftsman somewhere but I recall checking to see if they click at the same torque and they did. Debating sending it out for calibration, they'd probably laugh at it. The craftsman would be worth it though.

Rabid, Thanks and that press is on sale at Harbor freight for $130 ($10 off). I did use new cotters but like you said its nice to save them when there's no replacement.
 
the seal trapped water in there which caused wheel bearing corrosion and axles seizing into the hubs... mazda deleted the seal, and integrated the seal INTO the bearing itself (which WORKS) and notched a hole for water to drain

this is why ONLY OEM wheel bearings be installed on 02.5 thru 03s... aftermarket bearings DO NOT have this unique design and will FAIL... aftermarket bearings are bidirectional and do not have such a water seal on one side.... OEM bearings are unidirectional and do have the water seal

If this is the case, why does the TSB not cite a new bearing p/n or make mention of this new seal integrated into the bearing? Also, when i did my bearings last December I ordered the OEM bearing and there was no indication that one side was different from the other. I need the supporting documentation for this claim...

and to comment on the parts removal procedures.... how n00bish? there's an impact gun and it wasn't used to blast off the axle nut? rethreading the axle nut on and giving the axle end a couple of blows with a sledge hammer will pop it off the hub! there is also no need for any prying whatsoever in the ball joint and outer tierods! you hit the knuckle itself with a hammer next to where the tierod/ball joint goes in and it will pop off!

the axle nut is also NOT reusable and a new one should ALWAYS be used

I disagree with you that this method alone is always sufficient for the tie rod ends. When I removed my tie rod ends for replacing my bearings, I beat on those d*mn knuckles for half an hour and nothing would even remotely give. It was only after putting jack pressure on the tie rod end behind the knuckle and then hitting the knuckle that it popped out.
 
This is going straight to the How-To seciton. This is a GREAT write up. Thank you for the contribution :D

We now have two different wheel bearing threads in the "How-To" section. Is there some way to combine these into one, or else get rid of the older one (no offense to the OP for that thread). I just think 2 threads is unnecessary and will confuse people.
 
We now have two different wheel bearing threads in the "How-To" section. Is there some way to combine these into one, or else get rid of the older one (no offense to the OP for that thread). I just think 2 threads is unnecessary and will confuse people.

Alas it be mine that gets removed :(.
This one has a better write up about the actual replacement of the bearing itself as mine did not have pictures due to me not doing that myself (no press).

Here's my thread about taking off the knuckle.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123746487
Read the replies to my thread as some guys ran into some problems.

Good write-up
 
I didn't even think to look that there was one already. There was a flurry of bearing threads and I was in the middle of it and felt like doing a service. Probably wouldn't of done it otherwise. Would have just posted to yours with the pictures of what I did different, like the press details and wheel seal work. Some people fought the ABS sensor but mine doesn't have it. Key issues appear to be the axle nut, pulling axle, tierod removal and knuckle removal.

axle nuts - saturating with lube, putting the car down with the wheel on and going through the center cap with a huge cheater is the best way I've found to get em. Something I just started doing a month ago and have done three axles since without fail or breaking a sweat.

pulling axle - The slavrenz technique is pricesless. No risk of mushrooming the axle or mangling the nut. Get that puller loaded on the axle then tap with hammer and spray with lube. I used a two jaw harbor freight jobbie.

tierod - Constant pressure on the tierod and bang the knuckle flange with a hammer, it will always come out.

knuckel - cold chisel in the balljoint slot is the factory method of every car I've ever worked on. It is a PITA if you don't spread it.


I have the entire post saved in a notepad file if the mods want to merge it with yours.
 
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