Protege Front Wheel Bearing Service - LOTS OF PICS

actually duplication may not be a bad thing, gives people more material to study. Is there a way to append this thread onto the first one? That way we don't loose the discussion as well.
 
actually duplication may not be a bad thing, gives people more material to study. Is there a way to append this thread onto the first one? That way we don't loose the discussion as well.

Agreed om merging as the discussion is worth the read.(thumb)
 
Hi Guys,
I've got an 02 protege with the front driver side bearing gone, and possibly the front passenger side as well. I've got a couple estimates from shops, but after seeing this post I may attempt this myself. The Shops are saying the Hub may also be bad as well. Is that possible? Can a Hub go bad? Can anyone explain what that means and how that can happen?

Thanks,
- PP
 
I'm working on the same thing today but CAN NOT get the shaft out of the hub!!! I have no idea what to do.
I've heated the hub, soaked it in WD40....... I am totally lost here.

Anyone have any ideas???
 
you could thread the nut on and beat the bejesus out of it with a large hammer. It'll destroy the nut and not the axle (hopefully). Did you try the puller? Get it on there tight then bang with a hammer, the vibration may break it loose with the constant pressure. switch to a good penetrating lube instead of WD40.

When you do get it out, clean up the hub and axle with a wire brush, lather in penetrating oil and a light coat of anti seize to prevent the headache next time.

Good luck.
 
Easy...go to autozone, get an axle puller. You use a few lugs to secure it to the wheel studs and it has a big bolt in the center that you tighten. It pushes on the axle...it will pop right out. You can do it through their loan-a-tool service and get use of it for free. Good luck, post up if you have more questions.
 
Thanks for the replies!

I should have said more in my original post. I was using a hub puller and impact wrench.

I just let the WD40 soak on it overnight. Went out this morning and it popped right out.

I will say I have never had a hub be that difficult..

Great article and a tremendous help in clarifying that what I was doing was correct.
Thanks Again!!!

Thought I'd share this also;

Because originally I didn't have the time to replace the bearings myself, I took the car to a Firestone Autoshop where they diagnosed the bearing problem. They told me it would be $700+ to do the job.
They had "replace half shaft" on the list of things to do.
When I asked why the half shaft needed to be replaced they said because they cut it to get the knuckle off.
I asked why they would do that, and was told that, that way they can press the shaft out on the hydraulic press because it's too hard to get the shaft out using a hub puller................ WTF!!!

Just another reason I hate having anyone else work on my rigs!!
 
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Thanks for the great how to!
My only tip to add is when you need to press the outer race out and if it's like mine the ball race falls to bits - grab a welder and run a bead around the middle of the outer race.
It will shrink and tap out with a chisel quite easy!
 
Great thread. I'll be doing this to my MSP this weekend. Hopefully all goes well. I don't have a press so I'm just taking the hub and bearing to the shop. This helps out alot. Thanks.
 
I'm preparing to replace a right-front wheel bearing on my MSP. Can anyone tell me if I'm on the right track according the following symptoms?

There is a loud howl that sounds like 2nd engine roaring louder than my stock exhuast. It has now become louder on acceleration than on deceleration, and If I put my clutch in and let the engine go to idle, the pitch of the howl remains and follows the drivetrain RPMs. I've jacked the front off the ground and found the left wheel to turn (by hand) silently. However, the right side makes noise when I turn it. I get no popping or clunking when driving, so I'm hoping it's not the axle.

Finally, at 102,000, should I replace the tie rod end, lower ball joint, any bushings, or strut at the same time? I know this is a long post but I want to make sure I do the job right and complete. And I do realize that I may have to replace the axle, as well.

Thanks . .
 
Your wheel bearing needs to be replaced. If you're lucky, you won't have to replace the hub. My front left bearing was making noise as you described, and it damaged my hub, enough that the replacement bearing only lasted 18 months. It was either that or the shop replacing it F'd it up.

Since your mileage is up there and you have to tear things apart to get the wheel bearing out, you might as well replace the outer tie rod and lower ball joint. The lower ball joint is part of the lower control arm, so you have to replace the entire thing. You can get the control arm from RockAuto.com for a decent price.
 
Bump for a great writeup that's helped me immensely. A couple of notes...

I bought the same shop press as the OP from Harbor Freight for $130 less a 20% off coupon that's floating around the interwebs.... so even with the cost of a big new tool, I'm still way ahead of having a shop do it.

If you're looking for sockets to use for pressing out the hub and bearing, I found that a 32mm axle nut socket was the perfect size for removing the hub (also same size as the axle nut), and a 36mm was a perfect fit for the inner race when pressing out the bearing. Your milage may vary, as sockets might be different ODs, but that's probably a good starting point.

Finally, with regards to removing the tie rod end from the knuckle... I pounded on the both the stud and the knuckle for about 20 minutes and didn't get a budge. So I used a floor jack to lift up on the stud until it lifted the knuckle and compressed the strut a couple of inches. Then it only took a couple sharp blows to the top of the knuckle to free the stud. Possibly a little easier than trying to pry up on the tie rod end and hammer the knuckle at the same time ;)
 
Sethro - thanks for the great pics. Trying to do my own. I'm stuck with step 12. Cannot get that ball joint out. Can you explain a little more what you're doing there? Also both my ball joint seals are split and grease coming out. What's that going to do to me?
 
He is lifting up on the tie rod end (with a prybar), and at the same time pounding on the steering knuckle with a hammer, right next to where the tie rod attaches to the knuckle. Personally, I had much better luck lifting up on the tie rod end stud with a floor jack while banging on the knuckle.

If your balljoint dust boots are torn, you are probably best off replacing the entire lower control arm. I believe it's possible to replace just the balljoints, but it's not a simple process since the factory ones are permanently attached to the control arm. I think you have to drill the old ones out to remove them if you go that route, but don't quote me on that.
 
Thanks dmention7. All my ball joints have busted boots. I see a small rod with one end attached to the strut housing. Bad boots on it too.
What is this rod called? I'm green on suspensions. Maybe should have left this to the pros, but I got it started now.
 
The rod attached to the strut housing is the sway bar end link. That's not as big of a deal if the little bushing there starts to go. Not ideal, but it's not going to cause any catastrophic failure or anything. Replacing that endlink assembly is no big deal... they are only $15-20
 
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For the tie rod end, another way is a pickle fork, but it will likely destroy the rubber boot, but if you're replacing it any ways who cares?
 
Great thread. Thanks for the pictures.
I had to do the replacement on a 2000 Protege ES at 120,000 KM. The one on the left side was really bad. I took out the knuckle + hub on my driveway and run over to a shop that had a press.

How would you check on the wearing of the ball joint? & tie rod? The boot was intact on all four of them. I managed to squeeze in some grease under the boot of the ball joint & the tie rod on both sides, before putting them together.
 
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