Project Pay2Play: My Eunos Cosmo has arrived!
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
Lifeabuser
Member
- :
- Honda Civic - saving for an Eunos Cosmo
Man, stop this thread - I'm getting more jealous for every time I read 
Looks really good and the blitz boost controller feels like the better choice at this stage in my eyes.
Anyone know a sponsor so I can afford my own Cosmo?? (1 out of 2 here in Sweden are for sale right now, http://www.blocket.se/vi/13263208.htm?ca=4_s&last=1)
Sorry for offtopic.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
Looks really good and the blitz boost controller feels like the better choice at this stage in my eyes.
Anyone know a sponsor so I can afford my own Cosmo?? (1 out of 2 here in Sweden are for sale right now, http://www.blocket.se/vi/13263208.htm?ca=4_s&last=1)
Sorry for offtopic.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
Glad to read you have decided on the EBC, the Blitz unit is fine & a mate uses the top line one your getting on his Cosmo & loves it. Too many features for my personal tastes but as long as its the dual soleniod version the control unit options are great for each persons tastes.
In regards to the boost mine was running, its right there on the graph so thats a curious question to ask.....?? I know it is in 19th century PSI but the shop plotted PSI before I could ask for it plotted in Bar. The RotorMaster shop says the JC turbo's drop off in flow (+boost) due to the 2nd turbo being so small. Apparently its not as much of an issue on the FD turbo's as they are each the same size. Just a shame they cant fit onto the 20B-REW hey!!
My engine is original & now 13 years old, so 227KW is reasonable. A fresh engine with fresh turbo's @ 0.9-Bar should be good for 240KW but not much more.
The RE-Amemiya ECU is flawless but expensive. Worse still, they have dropped their 8-bit ECU line & the series-4 (86-88) series-5 (89-91) series-6 (92-95) RX-7 all ran 8-bit technology as did the HC + JC series.
Thankfully "Do-Engineering" took over the 8-bit line so you can get your REDOM-mini ECU from them & like RE-Amemiya, you quote your mods + boost requirements & they program to suit. We had one issue with an ECU when Do-Engineering took over. They downloaded the wrong software onto the ECU & sent to to Oz unwittingly. We did dyno runs, Youtubed it (see the white Cosmo in the DMRH videos) & sent it back. They understood where they went wrong, re-loaded correct software & sent it back............ Cosmo is faultless now........(first)
Personally, Id choose the REDOM-Mini ECU over the F-con Pro piggy back but its a personal choice.
As for the OKUYAMA cooling plate & front strut bar from the shop in Amagasaki. I have been trying to get more of these for ages but the price is too high for the "middle man". They make great products so thats a good choice.
REgards
In regards to the boost mine was running, its right there on the graph so thats a curious question to ask.....?? I know it is in 19th century PSI but the shop plotted PSI before I could ask for it plotted in Bar. The RotorMaster shop says the JC turbo's drop off in flow (+boost) due to the 2nd turbo being so small. Apparently its not as much of an issue on the FD turbo's as they are each the same size. Just a shame they cant fit onto the 20B-REW hey!!
My engine is original & now 13 years old, so 227KW is reasonable. A fresh engine with fresh turbo's @ 0.9-Bar should be good for 240KW but not much more.
The RE-Amemiya ECU is flawless but expensive. Worse still, they have dropped their 8-bit ECU line & the series-4 (86-88) series-5 (89-91) series-6 (92-95) RX-7 all ran 8-bit technology as did the HC + JC series.
Thankfully "Do-Engineering" took over the 8-bit line so you can get your REDOM-mini ECU from them & like RE-Amemiya, you quote your mods + boost requirements & they program to suit. We had one issue with an ECU when Do-Engineering took over. They downloaded the wrong software onto the ECU & sent to to Oz unwittingly. We did dyno runs, Youtubed it (see the white Cosmo in the DMRH videos) & sent it back. They understood where they went wrong, re-loaded correct software & sent it back............ Cosmo is faultless now........(first)
Personally, Id choose the REDOM-Mini ECU over the F-con Pro piggy back but its a personal choice.
As for the OKUYAMA cooling plate & front strut bar from the shop in Amagasaki. I have been trying to get more of these for ages but the price is too high for the "middle man". They make great products so thats a good choice.
REgards
What? you can't program it yourself? someone else has to do it for you then send it out to you....that would have to be the single WORST way to go with an ECU on any car - PERIOD.
You're far better off going for a complete stand alone unit, and wiring it in parallel with the stock EMS - that way the stock computer can take care of things that the after market unit cannot. By having a fully programmable stand alone system, you get the ability to either tune it yourself, or have it dyno tuned, without the hassle of having to send it back to a manufacturer to have them reflash the unit with what can only be no better than a "best guess".
For *any* rotary engine, the undisputed king of engine management is microtech. Microtech computers power the worlds most powerful rotary engines, and are an absolute snap to install and tune - they may not be the most sophisticated management system out there, but they do the job and do it well. Failing that, and if you want a little more finesse, Haltech have been making some fairly serious inroads into the rotary scene with their ECUs of late.
Then theres MoTec, which I believe is the EMS that powers the QSR quad rotor BMW.
But really, ANY fully programmable ECU (that is, an ecu that a dyno tuner can have 100% control over the computer) is going to be better than a "plug and play" (plug and PRAY) system that requires you to tell a company what mods you have and they guess your tune for you. Unless they are physically there with you, sitting in your car while it is on the dyno there is no way on earth they can be sure of the tune. No 2 cars will ever be modified the same way - theres way to many variables for a "one size fits all" unit. Stand alone all the way.
Antoine
Administrator
Few of us take pics with our cars because we're too busy taking pics OF our cars!
(cool) I'll be sure to post all about it!
Man, stop this thread - I'm getting more jealous for every time I read
Looks really good and the blitz boost controller feels like the better choice at this stage in my eyes.
Anyone know a sponsor so I can afford my own Cosmo?? (1 out of 2 here in Sweden are for sale right now, http://www.blocket.se/vi/13263208.htm?ca=4_s&last=1)
Sorry for offtopic.
Good luck and keep up the good work!
(hi) Welcome to Mazda Forums and my thread!
Haha...Well, I'm glad to meet another Cosmo fan and to know I'm not the only one who enjoys this thread...
That Cosmo for sale looks pretty nice despite the crappy pics but always check the condition of all vital systems (as with any used car purchase) especially since the Cosmo is so rare in Sweden and parts are probably really expensive and difficult to get a hold of..!
I might of missed it...Is it a 20B?
Let us know if you end up getting a Cosmo and Enjoy the Forums!
Yeah...One of the main reasons I went with the Blitz unit is because they've had a dual solenoid setup for years now and I think that would compliment the Cosmo's TT setup nicely...
As for the boost question...I briefly glanced at the graph and didn't realize that it included BOOST info...Doh! I think if you go ALL-OUT with the fconV-pro...You'll be able to fine-tune to the 20B and really maximize the benefits from any upgrades resulting in a serious yet safe power increase...
Problem is that it's really involved compared to just having the stock ECU upgraded and the cost is substantially more!!!I remember FEED telling me they would need my Cosmo for about 3+ weeks to install and tune the system...tune by driving...(drive)
Once I actually visit the shop in Amagasaki...I'll see if the Owner can workout some sort of deal for more than one OKUYAMA cooling plate & front strut bar set...How many potential orders are we talking?
OKUYAMA definitely looks like they make very high quality parts...Their JC Cosmo strut bar looks really nice! (thumb)
Lol...definitely no lack of passion in your response...I appreciate everyones input but I'd have to agree that going with a fully programmable solution is ultimately the best way to get the best performance from an engine...and the 20B in this case.
It seems that in every country...One aftermarket EMS system is always favored over others but I know that most of them are very worthy systems (Microtech & Haltech come to mind)...IMO It just comes down to what is favored in your area or country and in my case...It seems the fconv-pro is one of the top choices in Japan and for good reason...It's from Japan and all the top tuners and resources for this system are in Japan.
Although...I'm going to look into this some more...I want to know what most top ROTARY tuners use in Japan...Will see!
My main concern is can a fully programmable setup be livable and streetable without constant adjustments and tuning?..I'm all for hardcore performance but I want to "set it and forget it"...Of course adjustments and more tuning will be needed if new upgrades come along but I do not want to HAVE TO mess around with the system just to start my car...lol.
UPDATE...Schedule change!
Monday's meeting (23rd) has been moved to Thursday (26th).
Time to hit the sack!
Too right!
Its true you need to find someone who can tune the unit. If there are no microtech tuners in japan, it would possibly be a poor choice. Remember this: the tuner and the tune is VASTLY more important than the ECU you use. a tuner who knows an ecu will be able to get around the little "quirks" that exist in every ecu, and make it the most streetable it possibly can be, without compromising outright power.
Aftermarket ecu's can be coaxed into very streetable units. You may end up leaving the stock ecu in charge of things such as idle control etc, just to smooth out some of the problems that are associated with almost every after market unit (except maybe Autronic and MoTec, but you'll pay out your ass for those) - Once tuned, its very much "set and forget", until you add a mod that changes your AFR, then you are up for another tune....it can be very useful to learn how to make adjustments yourself, so you can do your own fine tuning without the expense of a dyno run.
Lifeabuser
Member
- :
- Honda Civic - saving for an Eunos Cosmo
Thank you. Yes it's a 20B. I think I will pass this one in lack of money (not for the car, but the ensurance). Since I'm under 24 I can't afford to own one here in sweden. I will just have to follow your thread and others to learn more and eventually get a cosmo or if I can't maybe I'll settle with a RX7. But the wankel/rotary engine is such an awesome machine that I can't wait to explore it further.
Once again great job on the Cosmo, I'll be reading everything you post.
Insurance is a bit of a killer. Australia has heaps of RX7 gear. Loads of choice.
Which part makes the insurance most expensive? Your age or because the Cosmo is twin turbo? If I recall correctly the turbos make a large difference in Australia to insurance cost.
Mazda has other great cars too. I would not complain if someone gave me an MX5. Not a rotary, but they are heaps of fun.
Which part makes the insurance most expensive? Your age or because the Cosmo is twin turbo? If I recall correctly the turbos make a large difference in Australia to insurance cost.
Mazda has other great cars too. I would not complain if someone gave me an MX5. Not a rotary, but they are heaps of fun.
Lifeabuser
Member
- :
- Honda Civic - saving for an Eunos Cosmo
Yeah I know, the age first of all. In sweden everyone under 24 drives like a maniac (according to ensurance companies) and the fact that it's a turbo (twin doesn't matter) makes it to "crash-machine" and the combination of me under 24 in a crash-machine...yeah figure it out.
Same with motorcycles. I used to drive an old sportbike. Couldn't ensure it on me, so my dad covered that time. That is the most posiitve thing about aging. You can afford to pay for the things you own....:mad:
The MX5 is a fun car even though it only produces around 120hp since the weight is so low. But it doesn't touch me in the heart if u know what I mean. Now I drive a Honda Civic VTi 4dr (with the larger 1.6l V-tec engine that produces 160hp stock), but since a guy I know already boosted his car (same model) with a turbokit produces 300hp++ I don't feel the joy I used to have in it. So that's why I'm looking for something new and rare. Even in my small town there are several Supras, Skylines, Cosworths, Evos, and a hell a lot of nissan silvia S13/S14. The RX7 is rare and ofc the Cosmo too so that's why they are in the spotlight now. Any ideas of other fun cars? I'm not patriot of any specific brand since every brand has it's own history and charm.
And the cars should be -97 or older since it's "illegal" to style/tune cars newer than -97.
Sry for oftopic - reply with a pm unless it's about the Cosmo.
Last edited:
Antoine
Administrator
Too right!
Its true you need to find someone who can tune the unit. If there are no microtech tuners in japan, it would possibly be a poor choice. Remember this: the tuner and the tune is VASTLY more important than the ECU you use. a tuner who knows an ecu will be able to get around the little "quirks" that exist in every ecu, and make it the most streetable it possibly can be, without compromising outright power.
Aftermarket ecu's can be coaxed into very streetable units. You may end up leaving the stock ecu in charge of things such as idle control etc, just to smooth out some of the problems that are associated with almost every after market unit (except maybe Autronic and MoTec, but you'll pay out your ass for those) - Once tuned, its very much "set and forget", until you add a mod that changes your AFR, then you are up for another tune....it can be very useful to learn how to make adjustments yourself, so you can do your own fine tuning without the expense of a dyno run.
Good info and that's what I'm assuming...It's all about the tuner & the tune...In Japan it seems the HKS unit is the way to go...I actually found two other Cosmos on the net that appear to have gone with the F-CONV Pro...No doubt it's a popular choice in these parts.
It may be a long while before I even approach the need for an aftermarket EMS but "streetability" will definitely be the name of the game along with optimum performance of course...
Classic quote that any Cosmo fan wouldn't mind hearing..."get a cosmo or if I can't maybe I'll settle with a RX7" (thumb)...Haha...Well said...but I've always been an RX-7/Rotary fan so it's all good...I guess some of us just have the Cosmo bug!
Seriously though...I know how you feel...Being young with few funds but a HUGE desire for some car...My advice would be to focus on getting a decent AND steady job...Keep learning about the Cosmo/Rotary and the day will come when you and your dream ride shall meet...Hopefully you'll be ready at that point to buy it!
I hope that I can keep your Cosmo "fire" alive and well via adventures with my own...Rest assured I'll keep this thread alive with many-a-juicy detail!
Ohhh...I know what you mean...It's like that special woman...You may see and meet plenty of nice ones but you know when you've met the ONE.
It's good to have goals...Make this one of your goals!
Antoine
Administrator
It's hot and time for another UPDATE!
Current:
The Pro-Audio guy hit a snag when trying to fabricate the custom Defi-Link Display setup inside the pop-open ash tray...It's proving harder than it seems and will take longer than expected to complete.
The good news is...He is NOT giving up!
In other good news...The Defi Boost gauge/RE Amemiya pod setup is 100% completed and looks FREAKIN AWESOME...The Defi gauge has a very solid...very quality look and the same goes for the Amemiya pod...Which has been painted to match the custom console faceplate.
Honestly...The gauge/pod setup looks like some sort of dealer installed option from Mazda...A very nice match...It looks damn good and appears quite natural in the Cosmo.
The Blitz unit hadn't arrived yet at the time of the last meeting...It should have arrived by now and is hopefully in the process of being installed.
As for the glovebox...The Pro-Audio guy fabricated a really nice box frame inside to house the Defi Control Unit, ETC card reader and the boost controller...Depending on how much room the Blitz unit takes...He may be able to leave a bit of space to hold small/flat things...BONUS! (2thumbs)
Last Meeting: June 23rd
Next Meeting: July ? (unknown at this time but maybe mid-July)
Mod Status:
* Custom Defi/Blitz/Glovebox setup should be complete unless I find something that needs to be sorted or something comes up
* Custom Ashtray/Center Console/Defi setup should also be complete unless I find something that needs to be sorted or more complications arise
* During the last meeting I noticed the need to fabricate a small non-visible vent/grill above the navigation unit but within the console to allow some airflow between the inside of the dash/firewall area and the interior cabin...As any rotary owner knows...Rotary engines generate a tremendous amount of heat and the 20B is no exception...Although the Cosmo does a good job of holding back all that heat from the engine bay...I would like the Navi unit to have some reflief and allowing some airflow behind the console should help keep air temps in check
* RE Amemiya steering column pod, custom center console face plate and ashtray have all been repainted to match!
To be continued...
* Order OKUYAMA cooling plate & front strut bar from the shop in Amagasaki
* Re-paint side view mirrors...Reserved for Stage III
* Factory body/aero kit condition checked...It's in good condition but it's also difficult to figure out how to adjust or tighten it..? UPDATE: Turns out the Pro Audio guy is quite knowledgeable about body work and has some ideas on how to ensure the factory body-kit has the best fit possible...More on this with Stage III
* Check condition of Turbo hose lines...If they need replacing...Decide to go with stock rubber, silicon or 100% Viton!
* Once StageII is complete...Detail interior and condition leather!!!
* Possible custom name plate mod in the works (Stage III?)...UPDATE: Stage III is already taking shape and will encompass mainly exterior/aesthetic mods
Stage III Preview!
- Custom body-kit name plate...Here is a pic of the current factory setup...
- Repaint side-view mirrors
- Make sure factory body-kit has the tightest & cleanest possible fit
- Remove all scratches and scrape marks
- Checkout the possibility of having the current rims cleaned, polished and coated...Price?
- New Cosmo sign and Eunos logos...Available still?
- Clean tail pipes!
Time to hit the highway!
Current:
The Pro-Audio guy hit a snag when trying to fabricate the custom Defi-Link Display setup inside the pop-open ash tray...It's proving harder than it seems and will take longer than expected to complete.
The good news is...He is NOT giving up!
In other good news...The Defi Boost gauge/RE Amemiya pod setup is 100% completed and looks FREAKIN AWESOME...The Defi gauge has a very solid...very quality look and the same goes for the Amemiya pod...Which has been painted to match the custom console faceplate.
Honestly...The gauge/pod setup looks like some sort of dealer installed option from Mazda...A very nice match...It looks damn good and appears quite natural in the Cosmo.
The Blitz unit hadn't arrived yet at the time of the last meeting...It should have arrived by now and is hopefully in the process of being installed.
As for the glovebox...The Pro-Audio guy fabricated a really nice box frame inside to house the Defi Control Unit, ETC card reader and the boost controller...Depending on how much room the Blitz unit takes...He may be able to leave a bit of space to hold small/flat things...BONUS! (2thumbs)
Last Meeting: June 23rd
Next Meeting: July ? (unknown at this time but maybe mid-July)
Mod Status:
* Custom Defi/Blitz/Glovebox setup should be complete unless I find something that needs to be sorted or something comes up
* Custom Ashtray/Center Console/Defi setup should also be complete unless I find something that needs to be sorted or more complications arise
* During the last meeting I noticed the need to fabricate a small non-visible vent/grill above the navigation unit but within the console to allow some airflow between the inside of the dash/firewall area and the interior cabin...As any rotary owner knows...Rotary engines generate a tremendous amount of heat and the 20B is no exception...Although the Cosmo does a good job of holding back all that heat from the engine bay...I would like the Navi unit to have some reflief and allowing some airflow behind the console should help keep air temps in check
* RE Amemiya steering column pod, custom center console face plate and ashtray have all been repainted to match!
To be continued...
* Order OKUYAMA cooling plate & front strut bar from the shop in Amagasaki
* Re-paint side view mirrors...Reserved for Stage III
* Factory body/aero kit condition checked...It's in good condition but it's also difficult to figure out how to adjust or tighten it..? UPDATE: Turns out the Pro Audio guy is quite knowledgeable about body work and has some ideas on how to ensure the factory body-kit has the best fit possible...More on this with Stage III
* Check condition of Turbo hose lines...If they need replacing...Decide to go with stock rubber, silicon or 100% Viton!
* Once StageII is complete...Detail interior and condition leather!!!
* Possible custom name plate mod in the works (Stage III?)...UPDATE: Stage III is already taking shape and will encompass mainly exterior/aesthetic mods
Stage III Preview!
- Custom body-kit name plate...Here is a pic of the current factory setup...
- Repaint side-view mirrors
- Make sure factory body-kit has the tightest & cleanest possible fit
- Remove all scratches and scrape marks
- Checkout the possibility of having the current rims cleaned, polished and coated...Price?
- New Cosmo sign and Eunos logos...Available still?
- Clean tail pipes!
Time to hit the highway!
7mileshome
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed3
Very nice car (for the 1000x) ! Its funny but I first started learning about this car from the video game Gran Turismo, but after reading this threat so far, I definitely have a new respect for the cosmo. (thumb)
Also I am extremely jealous that you get to see such nice mazdas on a daily basis.
P.S. this is a good story... I feel like I need to get the sequel or something!
Also I am extremely jealous that you get to see such nice mazdas on a daily basis.
P.S. this is a good story... I feel like I need to get the sequel or something!
Antoine
Administrator
Half the fun of being a car nut and owning a car you're crazy about...Are the stories & adventures!!! (2thumbs)
Thanks for sharing your story!
Antoine
Administrator
MINI-UPDATE!
I dropped by the Mazda dealer after work today to check on the status of "Stage II"...Things have been taking longer than expected because there was an issue with the ash-tray mod...Another ash-tray had to be ordered and while that part was on order...The Blitz SBC unit was installed!
The good news is that the ash-tray arrived last Friday and Stage II should be ready for final inspection on the 28th.
The plan is take the Cosmo on the 28th and test out all the new mods & goodies...I will also make sure all the custom work is up to my standards and report back to my friend later in the week...Letting him know if there are any details to iron out etc...
The makings of Stage III is already in the works and I hear that the network of highly-skilled professionals assisting with Project Pay2Play will be growing as well!
Quick note about the new Blitz SBC unit...It has been successfully installed and my friend reports that the Cosmo's turbo system is in very good condition and that with only a brief street test...The Blitz unit recorded a max of 6.1 psi...He made it very clear that even with this conservative street test...Even at a very reasonable 6.1 psi...The Cosmo felt like a "MONSTER!" (laugh)
Keep in mind...The Blitz unit instantly records the latest PEAK psi reached and the 6.1 psi was achieved in normal street conditions.
I dropped by the Mazda dealer after work today to check on the status of "Stage II"...Things have been taking longer than expected because there was an issue with the ash-tray mod...Another ash-tray had to be ordered and while that part was on order...The Blitz SBC unit was installed!
The good news is that the ash-tray arrived last Friday and Stage II should be ready for final inspection on the 28th.
The plan is take the Cosmo on the 28th and test out all the new mods & goodies...I will also make sure all the custom work is up to my standards and report back to my friend later in the week...Letting him know if there are any details to iron out etc...
The makings of Stage III is already in the works and I hear that the network of highly-skilled professionals assisting with Project Pay2Play will be growing as well!
Quick note about the new Blitz SBC unit...It has been successfully installed and my friend reports that the Cosmo's turbo system is in very good condition and that with only a brief street test...The Blitz unit recorded a max of 6.1 psi...He made it very clear that even with this conservative street test...Even at a very reasonable 6.1 psi...The Cosmo felt like a "MONSTER!" (laugh)
Keep in mind...The Blitz unit instantly records the latest PEAK psi reached and the 6.1 psi was achieved in normal street conditions.
- :
- 2003 Yellow Beast
by the way antoine i always wondered...WTF are you doing in japan?
Damn that sucks!
Its a bit freaky though, as I went to drive my Cosmo last Friday night and discovered two flat tyres, front left and rear left. Can't get air into them fast enough, huge holes, can't see anything sticking out.
Hopefully your rim will be ok, but it sucks to need to replace both rear tyres!
Its a bit freaky though, as I went to drive my Cosmo last Friday night and discovered two flat tyres, front left and rear left. Can't get air into them fast enough, huge holes, can't see anything sticking out.
Hopefully your rim will be ok, but it sucks to need to replace both rear tyres!
