Problem with P5 when it's really cold...

ggweci

Member
:
2003 Protege5
can anyone help me with this...

with these VERY cold temperatures (in Toronto) we've been having lately i've noticed that when i first begin to drive in the morning my car makes this slight jerky motion at about 1500rpms...the tach and engine kick up and down somewhere between 1400 and 1600 rpms...this happens for about the first few minutes of driving whenever the engine is spinning at that speed, but then it goes away once the engine is up at running temp...

the car is parked outside overnight, but i let it warm up for about 5mins or so, so it's not just like i start it and go...my car has the Sportshift tranny, and i'm not sure if it has to do some with the tranny itself or the engine...

any ideas??? this is really bugging me
 
i have not had any trouble with my p5. i also have the sportshift tranny but havent experienced any problems yet. we had temps between 0 and 10 all last week (not including wind chill) and i thought i would have some problems but i didnt. i dont know what to tell you, except to keep an eye on it.
 
I think there was an engine block heater accessory for people cold enough. I think that may assume you have a garage and AC outlet, though.

There are some old posts about the engine running rough when warming up, especially when cold. I didn't go back and search for them but you might want to if interested. I think the verdict was that it was normal for the Protege.
 
I'll bet it's the transaxle.

Even though you've let the motor warm up and it's pumping oil through the motor and getting it all warm, the fluid in the transaxle is not doing anything and not getting much heat until you start to actually use it. Remember, the fluid in an automatic not only lubricates the moving parts, it also provides the hydraulic pressure for shifting. In addition, the fluid in the torque converter is also cold and will afftect how that works. Short answer, it's most likely the extreme cold that's causing your transaxle to act weird. Jim
 
My Manual has a surge in power when it's cool around 2600 rpm's. I also have a loud rattling noise at about 2000 rpms and up. It doesn't sound healthy but disappears like clockwork as the engine temp warms up. Any ideas for me???
 
It's a known "problem" the noisy engine when cold....but it isn't harming anything.

I would just say, be careful about letting the car idle to get warmed up for 5 minutes - it's better to have the car moving than sitting, just drive it carfully until the engine has warmed up.
As Jim said, there are many parts that require the car to be in motion before they get warm.
 
I've had the same problems too with my car and the temps here are 0-10 at night plus the wind chill..... I'll let mine sit for at least 5 minutes if not more but I'll start to slowly roll out of my drive way and down the street like a granny in the snow hehehehe usually after an additional 5 mins the gauge for the engine will start going up for me so I guess all the oils and stuff are warming up inside... Stupid Question but is it bad to rev my engine while it's idle? I'm not like gasing it but I'll just do it as high as 2.5 rpms...
 
the only problem i've had with my p5 in the extream cold is a very stiff shifter (i have a 5spd) and will slightly grind 1 to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd...but after 5 minutes of driving its fine
 
banned bandit said:
the only problem i've had with my p5 in the extream cold is a very stiff shifter (i have a 5spd) and will slightly grind 1 to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd...but after 5 minutes of driving its fine

Mine does that too, I assumed it was normal since it has been so damn bitterly cold. Glad to have confirmation :)

BTW...it's 3 degrees now. 3! I won't mention wind chill since cars are not affected by wind chill...only living things are.
 
ECU

I think is the ECU reading sensors then calculating and making changes for a good mixture on that condition.
 
guys with manual trans, have you ever tried to do the following.

1. Stop the car and idle.
2. Use the emergency brake or just push the regular brake and keep it there.
3. Shift into 1st or any gear
4. Slightly release the clutch a bit until you see rpms dropping, and then release more and more and more. The ECU will not allow the engine to stall and the rpms will raise for every time you try to release the clutch more and more.
Its the ECU making sequential changes to the mixture to counter that.
 
i do that some times, when you see the RPMS drop (gas pedal not being pushed) when the clutch is being slightly release my AF gauge shows rich, same with when you rev high and clutch, just before it goes to 1000RPM it will go all the way to rich again to avoid stalling out
 

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