I think there is some huge confusion caused by the term (misnomer) "warped". More often than not the disc isn't actually warped like you might compare to a bent wheel or floppy pizza doughs.. it's actually high spots on the pad caused by brake pad material and rotor bonding. If your brakes were actually warped a lathe would have to take off so much material the rotor would probably be unusable afterwards. Imagine a shop using a lathe to repair a warped/bent wheel.
I'm sure dealers/shops love addressing "warped" wheels; the whole process generates a lot of shop hours and part markups. Brake rotors on some cars get RED hot during use and do not "warp". For the same reason sometimes people can successfully put a scrub pad on a high speed drill or angle grinder and remove the high spots on their rotors in the driveway
This is why I've switched to D/S rotors.. my driving style/high speed environment coupled with high outside temps cause my brakes to heat and retain heat. The oem and OEM style blanks ALWAYs became heat damaged by the end of the brake pad life. Since my new rotors have a greater cooling capacity (and yes technically a lesser thermal capacity), and the slot, the brake pad material is less like to bond uneven causing spots that result in vibration. I've noticed no reduction in braking performance, and I don't get fade anymore. Downside being that my pads wear quicker for the type of driving I do, but even cheap pads at $30 a set are adequate.. or I could (waste) spend more on high end pads.
Realistically, I'll never have to "lathe" these rotors, even with the cheap pads (really pads and IRON rotors are cheap regardless of the mark up) and cheap d/s rotor for the type of driving my CX-5 is capable of. I'd probably really start losing rotor width if I bought some high performance pads with a more aggressive compound, and honestly even in triple digits the generic ceramic type pads don't have me wanting to spend $100 or more on pads.
The hat on the brake is like a inch thick.. 10 or 30 foot lb difference isn't gonna actually warp your disc. You'd be more likely to warp a mag that's heated up and then hit a pothole while being poorly torqued than "warp" a rotor. If that's the case, every time a car went through a car wash it would come out with a "warped" rotor due to the flash cooling.
I'd put the conversation behind warped rotors up there with "higher octane fuel does nothing" in the automotive world of commonly misinterpreted or misinformation.
If you've ever seen metal transfer on a bearing it's not much different..one material gets embedded into another, which may or may not cause a noticeable issue.