pic of my girfriends!
- Thread starter perfworks
- Start date
well its like 214 in the AM
i just got back from the shop.
THE PIGGY IS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
she works great. some details i need to address tomorow in regards to cold start up so i will be there early again getting ready for the meet.
just in case your wondering she succesfully controlled both timing and fuel.
the only issue i had was that my stock MAF meter took a dump. She fell on the ground and cracked the meter. it wouldnt work so i had to install my other meter we have designed that bumped up the diameter to 70mm!!
it works great and looks like we have yet another product to offer now.
keep you guys informed with some pics soon.
i just got back from the shop.
THE PIGGY IS IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
she works great. some details i need to address tomorow in regards to cold start up so i will be there early again getting ready for the meet.
just in case your wondering she succesfully controlled both timing and fuel.
the only issue i had was that my stock MAF meter took a dump. She fell on the ground and cracked the meter. it wouldnt work so i had to install my other meter we have designed that bumped up the diameter to 70mm!!
it works great and looks like we have yet another product to offer now.
keep you guys informed with some pics soon.
Well she is almost done. Didnt have enough time to finish tuning on sat. So we went unboosted, with the new MAF installed and calibrated with the piggy. She was running a little rich and would stumble at certain times under load. We just need to datalog and fix that. No big deal. But we will finish on monday and tuesday with the start issue so she can be ready for sale once the certification software comes in. We have to wait so our program is protected and cant be copied.
Any way some guys came to the shop and took pics of the setup. They will post them either here or in another thread so look for them.
As of now the following products are going to be available:
Two stage turbo kit 1. for stock internals. 250 hp
2. forged internals. 375hp+ (depending on trans being used)
Auto kit up to 8psi
Piggy back ecu for fuel and ignition .
Boost control
Extra injector control
500+hp potential intercooler (bar and plate design for minimal pressure drop)
Upgraded 70MM MAF ( this has to be calibrated for use with the piggyback )
Full 3'' exhaust with flex pipe, cat and turbo muffler
Forged aluminum pistons and rods
Coming soon, New intake maifold and TB
Any way some guys came to the shop and took pics of the setup. They will post them either here or in another thread so look for them.
As of now the following products are going to be available:
Two stage turbo kit 1. for stock internals. 250 hp
2. forged internals. 375hp+ (depending on trans being used)
Auto kit up to 8psi
Piggy back ecu for fuel and ignition .
Boost control
Extra injector control
500+hp potential intercooler (bar and plate design for minimal pressure drop)
Upgraded 70MM MAF ( this has to be calibrated for use with the piggyback )
Full 3'' exhaust with flex pipe, cat and turbo muffler
Forged aluminum pistons and rods
Coming soon, New intake maifold and TB
snowman4us
Member
- :
- GF8,MP5
hell yeah!!!
i ran 11-13 psi consistently. keep in mind it was with a T3T4 57 series wheel.
18psi for a while and a little over 20 psi a couple of times. i didnt have enough fuel to continue after 20lbs.
18 psi i was running 13:1 A/F ratios which was really a nice ratio across the entire throttle band.
i also had the stock clutch in. Still do.
I never dump the clutch. just really nice transition and then floor it once shes in a good gear. The car was unbelievably fast.
You really wont understand untill you drive any car at that level . It was very fast. not just quick but fast. the tranny held up NO PROBLEM. those who abuse the trans with no preload thrust and just flat out immaturity will destroy it.
but the car can handle about 400 hp and driven daily. Ive been there and i know . some others may think otherwise but it is a great car.
as far as the tranny upgrade. It was never completed. I still have an extra trans around but no time for another project right now.
18psi for a while and a little over 20 psi a couple of times. i didnt have enough fuel to continue after 20lbs.
18 psi i was running 13:1 A/F ratios which was really a nice ratio across the entire throttle band.
i also had the stock clutch in. Still do.
I never dump the clutch. just really nice transition and then floor it once shes in a good gear. The car was unbelievably fast.
You really wont understand untill you drive any car at that level . It was very fast. not just quick but fast. the tranny held up NO PROBLEM. those who abuse the trans with no preload thrust and just flat out immaturity will destroy it.
but the car can handle about 400 hp and driven daily. Ive been there and i know . some others may think otherwise but it is a great car.
as far as the tranny upgrade. It was never completed. I still have an extra trans around but no time for another project right now.
b_real45 said:
No offense bud but there is no factual basis for this comment.
Your engine and ALL internal cumbustion engines are designed to run on gasoline ratios of 14.7:1
Once you run lean which is 16-17 and up that is when it is dangerous.
MANY turbochraging "specialists " claim they want 11-12:1 A/F ratios for safety. If this is the case they make there case only for max power and thats it. 13:1 is still very rich. Whenb the car is tuned properly there is no need for waste of fuel and BSFC rates higher than .50
Anyone with an FMU will tell you that running rich is just as dangerous and worst on the motor sometimes than running lean.
They lose power when too much fuel is present.
Only and only at WOT would you like to see a richer ratio when your basically guessing on fuel and ignition enrichment. It is then that tuning becomes a challenge because too many variables take place and your chances of detonation and max power are in the balance.
Just ask some of the higher end makers like the new AUDI that are turbo and run 14:1 from the factory. They produce max power and are fuel efficient at the same time.
This 12-12.5 A/F is a myth and an excuse for improper tuning.
I have said this for many years you are justing wasting fuel and diluting the oil system when you just run those types of ratios.
Nevermind the emmision standards are out the window at that point.
perfworks said:
Ok Perfworks. Which Audi runs 14:1 at WOT... show me the A/F on the dyno.
And no s***... it's called closed loop operation.. all internal combustion engines run 14.7:1 at closed loop. But how many of these cars are running 18psi at closed loop? Go ahead.. tune your car to stoich and see what happens when you do WOT runs at 14.7:1 A/F.
When you are pushing a little 4cyl to its edge by forced induction, you are seriously diminishing the margin of error for a correctly/safely running engine. I want you to continue running 13:1 or even higher.. and I'd like you to take it out on a cold night and push it to its limit. Monitor your EGTs and give us the readings. Do this for half a year and let us know how the engine is holding up.
I never told you it won't hold. I just wished you luck. You're right, 13:1 can be safe... as I just said my friend's GSR is at that A/F with a T04E-57 trim. No need to get all offended and saying my post was based on "myths and excuses for improper tuning."
b_real45 said:
let me start by quoting what I SAID ( not how you took it)
""
Only and only at WOT would you like to see a richer ratio when your basically guessing on fuel and ignition enrichment. It is then that tuning becomes a challenge because too many variables take place and your chances of detonation and max power are in the balance."""
this was what i said word for word. I agreed with you on WOT operation when the majority of the vehicles are thrown into open loop.
Secondly i wont do the research for you. To many people have been led to believe that you need to run rich to get results with forced induction IT IS FALSE. a myth. your car driving daily is just WASTING fuel when not at WOT. at partial throttle and cruise operation there isnt that need for a overly rich mixture. Again though taking a N/A vehicle and turbo charging it with out proper tuning to the fuel and ignition maps will FORCE you to run rich so that you are safe.
You may be forgeting the fact that peak cylinder pressures is what you need to keep in check anywhere between 5-15 degrees AFTER top dead center on the power stroke to maintain a safe range.
As far as your EGT claim that is not an absolute measurement to reliabilty. You can have a cast manifold versus a tubular manifold and see a difference of 300 degrees in temp. At the same A/F ratio. There is alot more to it than that. I have tuned and turbo charged many vehicles that way with no issues
Also you are not efficiently burning the mixture at those levels. If your exhaust sensor is reading a rich mixture you think its making things better? Your reading is telling you that your not BURNING the extra fuel. Think about it for a second. When do you get your reading before or after the combustion. If it is after then how can you tell me your getting all you can out of the motor safely when you wasting the majority of the energy your giving it to burn.
As far as the Audi, Saabs, Volswagons and volvos out there with turbos they have been running for years with close to Stioch readings even at WOT. they are the most reliable vehicles around.
They were just an example.
And again the only time you are unsafe is when you turbo charge a vehicle and dont tune it right. Period.
Peak cylinder pressures and lean spots cause detonation. So does carbon build up from an overly rich mixture.
Ignition has always been the key. Fuel needs to be a monetary enricher in direct relation CFM density. Keep a nice A/F mixture at the right temp and the right flow charateristics thru the head and youll be fine. (assuming that the timing maps are in accordance and slope with the boost pressures thru the manifold.)
So again i say the rich theory is a bandaid to poor tuning or the lack there of.
This was not meant to insult you at all. I thought we could have a discussion maturely about it. Thats why i said no offense from the begining of my post. That was in no way directed toward you.
take it as you may.
I have given you facts ...
not tradition passed down from the turbo demi gods.
Wait wait wait now.. we're fighting for no reason then.
If you meant that you've tuned to 13:1 at closed loop then that's a whole different story. Atleast your examples sound (now) like they're with respect to closed loop operation.
There is definitely no need to have anything richer than stoich at closed loop *in most cases.*
I agree that running fat in closed loop is ridiculous and is wasting fuel.
If you meant that you've tuned to 13:1 at closed loop then that's a whole different story. Atleast your examples sound (now) like they're with respect to closed loop operation.
There is definitely no need to have anything richer than stoich at closed loop *in most cases.*
I agree that running fat in closed loop is ridiculous and is wasting fuel.
I think that:
In any operation: Open Loop, Closed Loop, WOT or Partial Throttle, a stoich mixture along with correct ignition timing will give better HP output. Thats what you are looking for when tuning a car...configuring the ignition timing along with a stoich mixture given the octane of the fuel, air temp, cyl press, engine temps, etc.
We only run rich mixtures, colder plugs, high octane fuel...to prevent detonation.
Take the mazdaspeed protege as an example. Its power output problem is because of a rich mixture. What did Mazda do? Lean it out a bit.
The reason that our cars runs 14.7:1 instead of 13:1 is because of emissions, efficiency and power output.
Anyway, @ 13:1 the car runs hotter even if its richer than 14.7:1.
In any operation: Open Loop, Closed Loop, WOT or Partial Throttle, a stoich mixture along with correct ignition timing will give better HP output. Thats what you are looking for when tuning a car...configuring the ignition timing along with a stoich mixture given the octane of the fuel, air temp, cyl press, engine temps, etc.
We only run rich mixtures, colder plugs, high octane fuel...to prevent detonation.
Take the mazdaspeed protege as an example. Its power output problem is because of a rich mixture. What did Mazda do? Lean it out a bit.
The reason that our cars runs 14.7:1 instead of 13:1 is because of emissions, efficiency and power output.
Anyway, @ 13:1 the car runs hotter even if its richer than 14.7:1.
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