Check the threads - the handling is better, but it's an "incremental" better, not a wholesale "holy cow" better. Feels more direct, less of a move-then-take-a-set action and more of a smooth progressive rotation. Rear end is more planted, and a little stiffer but not enough for me to be able to coax it into big oversteer or anything like that. No clunk after ~9k but as I said the urethane bushings WILL squeak (they all do) but if you get the zerked kind you can lube 'em and shut 'em up. Note squeak does not equal "clunk" and the squeak starts gradually so you have some time to turn up the radio and get home to lube 'em, and the bushings are commercially available and maybe $15-$20 to replace if you need to. Oh - and you can lube with a small grease gun without jacking it up, just reach under, undo the zerk cap, attach the greasegun, squeeze 2-3x, remove and replace the cap. If you're anal about it, you can wipe down the bar when you're done. That's it - done in a shorter time than it takes to explain.
I've said it before so I'll bother to type it in again - it's like rotating a ballpoint pen by bending the pocket clip out at a 90 degree angle and pushing on it. Hold the pen in the middle and you get what the stock centrally located bushings are trying to do - the pen both rotates and tries to "bend" at the bushing. Move your fingers to just at the base of the clip and push on the end - see how the pen wants to rotate and not deflect? That's what the bushing relocation does.
OK, enough for me!
