Hey guys, got a little problem...for some reason my temp. gauge rises slowly closer to H, when I am stopped, but then comes back to the middle when I am driving. I checked the fans and i can hear them so i am not sure where to start on searching for the problem...coolant level is fine, there seems to be spillage and hoses have some of that green residue so maybe a leak? i dunno...im worried..any ideas? I also have an aftermarket billet coolant can from PG...
Overheating when Stopped??
- Thread starter SergMSP
- Start date
You may have a blown head gasket or cracked head. Be very careful driving around with this condition as it is not good for the aluminum head, gasket, and headbolts.
I'm not saying that is what it is, but it could be the case and the extreme worst case scenario. Other items to check would be your thermostat and fan relay.
I'm not saying that is what it is, but it could be the case and the extreme worst case scenario. Other items to check would be your thermostat and fan relay.
randyscycle
Member
- :
- 1971 Mazda 1200 pickup
Even if you hear the fans running, that doesn't mean they are coming on at the correct time. They may be running too late. When you are moving, there is air flowing through the radiator, and it keeps it cool, so a fan isn't necessary. When stopped however, there is no air and a fan is needed to keep the air flowing.
The fan is activated by a thermal switch that senses the coolant temp and turns it on at the proper time. If a thermostat is stuck open, it could also cause erratic operation as well. You'd need to either manually check the coolant temp with a thermometer, or install a mechanical temp guage. The electric guage you have in the dash isn't accurate enough to do this. If you aren't somewhat familiar with this, have a competent tech check it out for you.
I wouldn't condemn the head gasket right away.
The fan is activated by a thermal switch that senses the coolant temp and turns it on at the proper time. If a thermostat is stuck open, it could also cause erratic operation as well. You'd need to either manually check the coolant temp with a thermometer, or install a mechanical temp guage. The electric guage you have in the dash isn't accurate enough to do this. If you aren't somewhat familiar with this, have a competent tech check it out for you.
I wouldn't condemn the head gasket right away.
I think it's something cooling related. You said you can see a coolant leak and you have an aftermarket tank and the hoses have a little leak or something like that.
My dads Focus was having very similar problems and it was cooling related, and fan related. s*** like that you know. Probably nothing major just expensive possibly.
My dads Focus was having very similar problems and it was cooling related, and fan related. s*** like that you know. Probably nothing major just expensive possibly.
When you first start the car after its been sitting overnight, how long does it take the needle to sit in the middle? Once the car reaches about 180-190 degrees, the thermostat should open and the fans kick on. to test the fan relay, you could jump it to see if it works by starting the car and taking a wire or paper clip and touch it to a ground spot. The fan will come on and stay on, unless its the fan motor itself. You could remove the thermostat and boil it in water to see if it opens. I'd just replace it as they are under $20. Take off your oil cap and look to see if it has a milky residue around it and also check your dipstick to see if the oil looks normal or watery. Have the coolant system pressure tested.
Believe me, I hope you don't have a blown head gasket or warped head. My point to you is not to drive the car around with the gauge hitting H or you will if that is not your problem already
Believe me, I hope you don't have a blown head gasket or warped head. My point to you is not to drive the car around with the gauge hitting H or you will if that is not your problem already
dude, don't be stupid
bring me your car today
we'll take a look at it
but please, take the car to my house before going to the dealer and spending mad unessesart money
they'll void ur warranty with the upgraded side mount, coolant catch can and hard pipes and relocated maf
don't even dare taking it to the dealer
call me...laterz
bring me your car today
we'll take a look at it
but please, take the car to my house before going to the dealer and spending mad unessesart money
they'll void ur warranty with the upgraded side mount, coolant catch can and hard pipes and relocated maf
don't even dare taking it to the dealer
call me...laterz
have a weapon r billet coolant can ??? be careful
Well, we found out what it was!
i recommend anyone who has an aftermarket coolant can, make sure the coolant can get sucked back in!!! Alejo and I opened up my radiator and found it bone dry!(shocked) Yet, the coolant can was full. For some reason, weapon r designed their coolant can for the hole/hose that sucks the coolant back into/also overflows into the can, is all the way at the top, so unless the coolant level reached high enough to get it sucked back in from that hole, it will only be able to overflow coolant in, but not be able to suck it back.
We have PICs of the solution, this was recommended a while ago by Pirana, but i never got a chance to do it. You have to make a "straw" that will reach the bottom of the can, so when the radiator needs coolant, it can get it from that hose...Alejo, post the pics when you get a chance, its on your camera!
be careful, whoever has one, you could be overheating and not even realize...
Well, we found out what it was!
i recommend anyone who has an aftermarket coolant can, make sure the coolant can get sucked back in!!! Alejo and I opened up my radiator and found it bone dry!(shocked) Yet, the coolant can was full. For some reason, weapon r designed their coolant can for the hole/hose that sucks the coolant back into/also overflows into the can, is all the way at the top, so unless the coolant level reached high enough to get it sucked back in from that hole, it will only be able to overflow coolant in, but not be able to suck it back. We have PICs of the solution, this was recommended a while ago by Pirana, but i never got a chance to do it. You have to make a "straw" that will reach the bottom of the can, so when the radiator needs coolant, it can get it from that hose...Alejo, post the pics when you get a chance, its on your camera!
be careful, whoever has one, you could be overheating and not even realize...
I have a Weapon R coolant tank and there is a plugged hole at the bottom. I removed the plug and found a screw in nipple at home depot to take its place. I ran my radiator return line to this and used the nipple up top as the dump tube in case it ever gets too full and needs to release some of the coolant.
Glad you figured it out though and caught it before it did some serious damage.
Mark
Glad you figured it out though and caught it before it did some serious damage.
Mark
we were discussing baout what would be the best way of doing it
and yes, i saw the bolt on the bottom too and wanted to ad an L shapped fitting and attach the hose there since it would have the best access, thing is that the weight of the water would create pressure and maybe leak from the radiator, tho kinda impossible to do, it may happen.
we decided it was best to try and fit another hose thru the little nipple and have it long enough to reach the bottom
and to keep the hose from being closed by the bottom of the can, i made a diagonal cut to the end of the hose so that it will always suck water in
the design of the car, materials wise, is great...but i dunno in what kind of cars this thing goes that it was designed like that...
another thing i did notice was that there is no difference between the design of the OIL catch can and the COOLANT overflow can
serg has both and they look exactly the same.
have fun
worst 50$ spent on a useless mod....i still bug serg about it
and yes, i saw the bolt on the bottom too and wanted to ad an L shapped fitting and attach the hose there since it would have the best access, thing is that the weight of the water would create pressure and maybe leak from the radiator, tho kinda impossible to do, it may happen.
we decided it was best to try and fit another hose thru the little nipple and have it long enough to reach the bottom
and to keep the hose from being closed by the bottom of the can, i made a diagonal cut to the end of the hose so that it will always suck water in
the design of the car, materials wise, is great...but i dunno in what kind of cars this thing goes that it was designed like that...
another thing i did notice was that there is no difference between the design of the OIL catch can and the COOLANT overflow can
serg has both and they look exactly the same.
have fun
worst 50$ spent on a useless mod....i still bug serg about it
Mark94 said:
I recently dealt with this problem on my wife's 95 Accord. The original down tube in the overflow tank had rotted and broken off, leaving only an inch or so. I put new hose on there that went down fairly close to the bottom, and it fixed the coolant loss and erratic temp problem. Common sense says the hose should go most of the way down. I can't believe anyone would design one any other way.
still overheating..
ok guys...bringing this thread back from the dead...im still ****** overheating...i find myself adding coolant once a week...iknow its bad for the car to drive it while it's close to the H but its wierd, it goes back down to the middle when i start driving..then when i stop and its idle, it goes back up to H...my engine bay reeks of coolant...taking it to the dealer is really not an option cuz of all the mods...s*** has me stressed man...i replaced the thermostat and it was fine for a bit, i just bought a new rad cap (1.3 bar from pg)...but could that really be it?? I also have that piece of s*** coolant can, im buying a stock one asap...so what would u do if your close to H but u have to keep driving to bring it down?? ****** help please...(pissed)
ok guys...bringing this thread back from the dead...im still ****** overheating...i find myself adding coolant once a week...iknow its bad for the car to drive it while it's close to the H but its wierd, it goes back down to the middle when i start driving..then when i stop and its idle, it goes back up to H...my engine bay reeks of coolant...taking it to the dealer is really not an option cuz of all the mods...s*** has me stressed man...i replaced the thermostat and it was fine for a bit, i just bought a new rad cap (1.3 bar from pg)...but could that really be it?? I also have that piece of s*** coolant can, im buying a stock one asap...so what would u do if your close to H but u have to keep driving to bring it down?? ****** help please...(pissed)
