Overheating when Stopped??

[terbow]

is your rad dry again? start there. If you have no coolant it will overheat, plain and simple. IF its empty, fill it, get a stock or comprable resevoir and then trace the leak. If its overheating and you have coolant, as said above its a more complicated issue. start with tests. dont drive it when its overheating. ill bet ur rad is empty again.

 

[BOOSTR]

Oh man that sucks. But driving around with the gauge at H is possibly going to warp your head and allow water into the cylinders. You don't want either to happen. And just because its going back to normal doesn't mean that the head bolts have not stretched and casting is warping.

Can you see coolant leaking between the top of the block and head under the valve cover after you have refilled it and have driven around? If so you have a warped head.

Worst case scenario, your going to have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop to be pressure tested for cracks and as long as the warpage is .008 or less they might be able to fix it.

I had a similar situation with my Probe GT, the gauge was going up to H but the fans were not working. Replaced the sensor and then fans worked. However from driving it, the head became severly warped over cylinders 3 & 4. Its at the machine shop now getting pressure tested. Not that it matters but the gasket was still intact. Now its time for a head gasket set, new head bolts, and a new or machined casting.

I hope that yours is a simple fix again.

 

[SergMSP]

Oh man that sucks. But driving around with the gauge at H is possibly going to warp your head and allow water into the cylinders. You don't want either to happen. And just because its going back to normal doesn't mean that the head bolts have not stretched and casting is warping.

Can you see coolant leaking between the top of the block and head under the valve cover after you have refilled it and have driven around? If so you have a warped head.

Worst case scenario, your going to have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop to be pressure tested for cracks and as long as the warpage is .008 or less they might be able to fix it.

I had a similar situation with my Probe GT, the gauge was going up to H but the fans were not working. Replaced the sensor and then fans worked. However from driving it, the head became severly warped over cylinders 3 & 4. Its at the machine shop now getting pressure tested. Not that it matters but the gasket was still intact. Now its time for a head gasket set, new head bolts, and a new or machined casting.

I hope that yours is a simple fix again.

holy s*** dude...im ****** freaked now...how much would it run me on average if its already warped since it happened multiple times?
So i decided to look around and squeeze the rad hoses to maybe let air out but guess what? as soon as i grabed it my hands were drenched in coolant, then i look under the rad and sure enough also drenched in coolant...so honestly i was relieved that it might just be a radiator replacement and new rad hoses...im takin it to pep boys first thing tomorrow morning...i wrapped the hose in duct tape so cover up that wierd cut/slice which was leaking coolant...but there really isnt much i could do with whatever is causing to leak from under the radiator...im f--n screwed...i might have to end up going to the dealer to buy the rad and try to install it myself..i found this on ebay:
carpartswholesale...now i have to debate to either wait or pay the stealer if they have one in stock..

but thats just the beginning of my worries man...****..

 

[MrDiggler]

We have a radiator shop here in town that orders good aftermarket replacements in for a lot less than OEM parts. I've bought two or three over the years and have been pleased with the quality. You should have a shitload of places like that in Miami. Glad to hear it's probably not the head/engine.
BTW, check the F/S section. Someone had a MSP radiator for sale in there the other day.

 

[chaos2015]

unless you have a fmic (even some fmic)that one wont work.the msp rad is not as wide and the only place to get it is the dealership and they run, if i remember correctly) $370

 

[BOOSTR]

Glad to hear that you sourced the problem. Swapping a radiator out is a piece of cake. I have seen a few threads on here indicating that the dealer right now seems to be the only option for an oem radiator. Don't let Manny, Moe, and Jack work on your car!

After you get it fixed, just keep an eye on the temps. As long as it stays in the middle and never starts going up to H again, you may not have a problem.

If you need to replace the head and do all of the labor yourself, you'd be looking at say $350 for the casting with valves/springs installed, $54 for headbolts, $100+ head gasket set, and $14 for coolant. Depending on your miles, you might want to change your belt and water pump since you'd be right there during the process. That would be another $100 or so in parts. Again that is worst case scenario and hopefully not your situation.

 

[SergMSP]

Glad to hear that you sourced the problem. Swapping a radiator out is a piece of cake. I have seen a few threads on here indicating that the dealer right now seems to be the only option for an oem radiator. Don't let Manny, Moe, and Jack work on your car!

After you get it fixed, just keep an eye on the temps. As long as it stays in the middle and never starts going up to H again, you may not have a problem.

If you need to replace the head and do all of the labor yourself, you'd be looking at say $350 for the casting with valves/springs installed, $54 for headbolts, $100+ head gasket set, and $14 for coolant. Depending on your miles, you might want to change your belt and water pump since you'd be right there during the process. That would be another $100 or so in parts. Again that is worst case scenario and hopefully not your situation.

Guess what fellas? Looks like it might have been the radiator...i swapped with Alejo for his MSP rad (since i still have my SMIC) and i bought him a brand new p5 rad...he did his magic to make it fit perfect, and we are both happy...so far i have not had any spills or that sweet smell of coolant, which used to reak inside the damn cabin....so far so good...hopefully that was the problem...now for the other question...what should i do my used MSP rad, it was only 40k miles...anyone know if they can be fixed?

 

[MrDiggler]

Possibly by a good shop. I wish I had my FMIC installed, cuz I would have been more than happy to do that same swap with you!

 

[JCell]

The exact thing was happening to my moms Galant.

it would overheat the minute you stopped at a light but as soon as the car startted rolling again, it was fine.

found out the colant had never been changed, did a quick flush and the problem went away instantly. she drives 40 miles days in traffic with no problems

something to consider

 

[540James]

i am feeling your pain right now. my car started to overheat the other day and ive tried a few things and its really pissing me off. i put a new thermostat, i have a p5 radiator on my msp that is about 5 months old, its full of coolant, as far as i can see, no cracks in the hoses and its still overheating. i guess i have to go your route, get a new radiator, a msp radiator, and change the hoses out. i am also going to replace the water pump. if those two things dont fix it looks like im up that creek eh?
oh yeah, and my fans are coming on as well, how do i check to see if they are coming on at the right time and staying on long enough? and how to do fix it?

 

[540James]

oh yeah, i noticed that my fuel gauge in the dash was fluctuating a little bit as well, probably 1/8th of an inch for a few seconds, up and down

 

[96franco]

Check The Heating System I Had The Same Thing Happen To Me And The Problem Is That I Didnt Do Anything About It And After A Few Weeks Vapoor Started To Come Out Of My Dash , Took It To The Mechanic And It He Fix It But Now The Heter Wont Work

 

[540James]

wtf are you talking about