Oil

tprouty

Member
:
2001 MP3 LASER BLUE MICA
I got my oil changed about 2 months ago, and when my sticker said it was about time to change it again, I noticed my oil was really low. every corner I took and was steping on the gas my light would turn on. so I checked it and it was not even readin on the dip stick. and it is not leaking any where I have been checking where ever I park. anyone know why I am eating so much oil? I was using 10-30 Full Syn now I have High Mileage because I am at 75,000.
 
i lose about a qt per oil change and i don't see any oil leak either. i just smell the burnt oil smell at stops, especially when its hot or warm outside, like in the summer. How hard is it to install the crank vent things, i'm looking into putting the Millenia sc pcv valve in and a catch can from what i read it helps. but is the krank vents really necessary, has anyone on here have any pix of them on or some results after putting them on?
 
i burn about 2 quarts every oil change, then again i'm constantly in high rpms
 
i'm a granny shifter though, always babying it by shifting at like 2500 except once in a long while i see something to mess with
 
I just put Pennzoil HighMilage in. I had Pennzoil Full Syn. in, and I am always keeping it in 4th gear cept when on the highway. I like the jump i can take. I do not know about the catch, the car is new to me. and I will look into those crank vents. I also heard replacing the valve rings will help too.
 
Diferent oils seap diferntly, It's not normal for it to burn through, but it seems to be normal for this engine..
 
BoostedMP3 said:
How hard is it to install the crank vent things

Not hard at all. just cut your vac line place the krank vent in the line and tighten the clamp. I have not had any probs with oil consumption using 5w30 castrol syntec. Altho i will be switching to redline synthetic on my next(soon) oil change
 
The krank vents are extremely easy to install and there are over 1000 posts with various cars and its success stories
 
I was told to replace my rings? are there any aftermarket ones that any of you would suggest?
 
tprouty said:
I was told to replace my rings? are there any aftermarket ones that any of you would suggest?

Check compression first, before you do anything. They sould be in around the area of 180 psi. If they are more than 20 psi difference between a cylinder then there may be a problem with a ring.
 
Hey guys, instead of starting a new thread on oil, I figured I could just ask in this one....

Ok, so my friend just bought a case of oil and was wondering if I wanted to do an oil change with him, and I said yeah. Now in the past, I just took my car to a local place to get tune-ups and such because I was too lazy to do the simple things(but I do install my own major and/or aftermarket parts), but now that it is getting warmer, I figure I'll start doing my own oil changes all the time. Now I was wondering a few things....

The sticker in the window says the guy used 5W-30, and I know our car accepts both 5 and 10W-30, so it should be fine to switch back right? But it is also coming out of winter so I'm wondering if maybe he switched for the cold weather....? My car has about 95,XXX miles on it, and I'm not quite sure which oil was put in as I never really asked since there was never a problem, but I'm guessing it was conventional oil. So my friend bought Royal Purple Full Synthetic and I was wondering if you all think it's ok to switch...

So my question is, do you think it's going to be ok to switch from 5W-30 conventional(I'm guessing) to a 10W-30 synthetic on a car with 95K miles? Will I run in to any problems, or are there any precautions I should take maybe? Also, any opinions on oil filters...?

Any help is appreciated!


Thanks,
Scott.
 
You should be ok to switch, but dont put dino oil back in after switching to synthetic. As for oil filters, get a K & N mazda 626 filter, part# HP-1010. You can find them at autozone for 11$ They are a lil bigger than the protege filter and you can prolly use a 4 full quarts instead of having leftover oil from using 3.5 quarts on stock filter
 
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Tzar177 said:
You should be ok to switch, but dont put dino oil back in after switching to synthetic. As for oil filters, get a K & N mazda 626 filter, part# HP-1010. You can find them at autozone for 11$ They are a lil bigger than the protege filter and you can prolly use a 4 full quarts instead of having leftover oil from using 3.5 quarts on stock filter
Alright, thanks...But I forgot to mention, along with the oil change, I'm probably going to be putting my AWR oil pan in, so do you think I should just keep the stock sized filter and add 6 full quarts since the pan add 1.5 quarts...?
 
You mean 5 full quarts? Isnt stock 3.5? I would still use the 626 filter as it will clean the oil a bit better
 
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