Oil Pump Labor/Parts Cost?

D

daedalus

Member
:
BANANA OF FURY
I'm kind of thinking my oil pump might be ******. So, i'm trying to figure out ballpark how much its going to be to have it replaced.

I couldn't find any other threads using the search, and its sunday so the stealership is closed. That, and my local stealership is the devil so i'll do anything to avoid contact with them.

I couldn't find a part number or a oil pump cost on any of the online dealership (montgomery mazda, etc). I know its going to involve the timing belt, but it should just be able to be swapped out with out actually removing the timing belt right?

Anyone got an idea in terms of labor cost and parts cost?

Appreciate the help gents.
 
Three million dollArz.

.. So just save yourself the pain, and give me the money and your car.

Kthx! :D
 
heres some pics
 

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yesh... thats not good. Kind of what i was figuring it would be. Basically like a timing belt change, which is like 600-700 bucks in labor easy, plus parts.

Gonna be 1000 bucks if its a dollar. Good news is i think i should be able to swap out the rear main seal for a new one during it without any additional labor.

******* cars will be the end of me and my bank account.

Thanks for posting that link up jay!
 
Unless they plan on pulling your transmission to do something bolted to the front of the engine, then I don't think you will be replacing the rear main seal. Do you mean the front seal? Why do you think you need an oil pump?
 
Fudgie said:
Unless they plan on pulling your transmission to do something bolted to the front of the engine, then I don't think you will be replacing the rear main seal. Do you mean the front seal? Why do you think you need an oil pump?
Click to expand...

In the service manual Jay pointed out, its specifies removing the transmission?

Well, after talking with a bunch of other guys who have some boosted miatas and so forth, we think the oil pump might've been damaged or clogged with cooked oil the night my car overheated.

Ever since that night, my oil pressure has dropped and doesn't read what it used to, but i've been unable to ascertain any reason for this. I don't burn any oil, or have any blue smoke from the tailpipe, yet my oil pressure remains lower than usual. For example, I used to idle around 20-22psi when at operating temperature. Now my pressure reads about 8-10psi. The same goes for the rest of the rpm range; my pressure is less throughout the band.

According the the miata boys, when you cook oil on an overheat it can sometimes gunk the oil pump, causing a restriction, and thus reducing the oil pressure of the engine.

Thats about the only logical explanation I can come up with. ****** up compression, or rings, or anything else like that would cause smoke, so thats why I think it has gotta be the oil pump.

Unless you guys have another suggestion?
 
Could be main and/or rod bearings too. How is the pressure when rpms are increased? In my opinion, you would have to absolutely cook an engine to the point of no return to actually coke and plug a pump. Might be worth taking the pan down and make sure the pick up isn't plugged. Pretty sure you can get that pump out of there w/out pulling apart the bottom. Bolts to the front of the block and to the top of the girdle. Sealed with Mazda grey RTV.
 
daedalus said:
For example, I used to idle around 20-22psi when at operating temperature. Now my pressure reads about 8-10psi. The same goes for the rest of the rpm range; my pressure is less throughout the band.
Click to expand...

8-10 psi is what I idle at normally, 20-22 psi seems high to me for idle. At cruising speeds I'm 50-60 psi, and at WOT slightly higher.
 
those oil pumps in my pics are from motors ran hard and all of which have died from oil starvation/ rod knock.. they are gunk free and have seen MAJOR heat when starved for oil, iv tested the oil pumps play and measured the screws play to make sure they arent trashed. they where good, very good at that.. what a 40k oil pump should be(ya synthic)... id check the lines and or sending unit to the pressure gauge, then the gauge it self.. chances are that its not the pump.. for 800- 1000 bucks, BE SURE its the pump and nothing else..
 
Maybe try another oil pressure sender just for fun or maybe you already did?

Your miata boys bring up a good point....I know that when I spoke to a Mazda Protege racing team builder, the first thing he told me (besides weak rods)is that the oil pumps on these things are weak. That's why his team uses an external oil pump they designed. He recommended that not only should you change the timing belt when the time comes but to change the oil pump also.

It's a b**** of a job but if in fact it's the pump...consider yourself lucky.
 
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put some seafoam in the oil to see if that might break some of the coked oil up?
 
I think i'll try and get another sender unit first off, change the oil back to synthetic and see where that gets us.

If I was going to do the seafoam thing, do you just pour some into the crankcase? I could do that with the s*** oil in it now, run it for a couple minutes before the oil change?

Thanks for the input gentleman.
 
If you are changing the pump, grab the high volume TOGA race pump from import performance parts. You'll thank yourself that you did.
 
And ya, it's a b**** to change. You don't need to remove the trans though. Do what me and BrianMP5T did, jsut drill two holes in your bellhousing to get the two 10mm bolts off.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
And ya, it's a b**** to change. You don't need to remove the trans though. Do what me and BrianMP5T did, jsut drill two holes in your bellhousing to get the two 10mm bolts off.
Click to expand...

I'd pay money if I had a picture of this. I'd love to know the exact spots to drill now that my new motor is on a engine stand. And what did you do with the holes after...do you leave them or fill them?

Edit: I'll just eye it tomorrow and suggest to my guy....but I still want to know about filling or not and what?
 
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I used silver RTV and it seriously looks factory.

Basically, the spot is real easy. Both are directly between the 2 bolts on the bottom.

Let me clarify, there are 4 bolts on the bottom of the windage tray. One hole needs to be drilled between bolts 1 and 2, and the other between 3 and 4. The shop manual has a great pic.
 
Maxx Mazda said:
I used silver RTV and it seriously looks factory.

Basically, the spot is real easy. Both are directly between the 2 bolts on the bottom.

Let me clarify, there are 4 bolts on the bottom of the windage tray. One hole needs to be drilled between bolts 1 and 2, and the other between 3 and 4. The shop manual has a great pic.
Click to expand...

Good stuff..I'll check it out tomorrow. I'm more of a visual, hands on type of person but it's noted. Thanks!
 
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