Oil change tip

matsuda

Member
For those of you that change your own oil:

Before starting the engine (after the oil change), turn the key to the ON position, hold the accel pedal to the floor, crank the engine for 10 seconds, wait 10 seconds, and crank it again for 10 seconds more.

This will allow the new oil to circulate to critical parts before the engine is started.
 
If I hold the loud pedal to the floor and crank the engine for ten seconds, it'll blow up. I'll pass.

Actually, I guess the rev limiter will save me. Still, I'll pass. An idling engine will circulate the oil quickly enough.
 
If I hold the loud pedal to the floor and crank the engine for ten seconds, it'll blow up. I'll pass.

Actually, I guess the rev limiter will save me. Still, I'll pass. An idling engine will circulate the oil quickly enough.

Why would it blow up?
That doesn't make sense considering that the engine won't start.
 
True, it won't start, but which provides higher oil pressure, the pump driven by the engine or by the starter motor? I would submit there is enough oil remaining in the engine to provide lubrication for the few seconds it takes for the pressure to build. I fill the filter with oil before I put it on the motor, so there's no lag there.

Sorry, I just don't see the need.
 
Ooh nice tip. I was considering doing what I did in my old car, which was pull the EFI fuse and crank, but this is even easier.
 
turning over the engine with just the starter usually won't turn the pump over fast enough to offer any real lubrication or pressure from the pump... the chance of the car starting and going into above idle rpms... hmmmm.

all this taking out fuses, fooling ecu, etc. seems a bit overkill... just change the oil, crank and idle for a few seconds/minutes while checking for leaks... done.

and how do you fill the oil filter on these cars? it's a cartridge style, not a spin on.
 
MikeHTally has the spin-on filter conversion :)

I do, too, and it's fantastic!
 
turning over the engine with just the starter usually won't turn the pump over fast enough to offer any real lubrication or pressure from the pump... the chance of the car starting and going into above idle rpms... hmmmm.

Cranking the engine after an oil change is not a uncommon practice for turbo motors.

Is there some specific problem with the MS3 oil pump that prevents it from working at lower speeds?
 
High oil pressure isn't necessary. The engine isn't running.

Many people don't see the need for synthetic oil, maintaining proper tire pressures, wearing seat belts, etc.
To each his own.
All the internal parts are turning, whether the plugs and injectors are firing or not. The pistons, crank, cams, etc., still need lubrication, which is better provided by an engine-driven oil pump.
 
Um, no thanks. I just put as much oil into filter housing as I can before putting it back on the car.
 
Many people don't see the need for synthetic oil, maintaining proper tire pressures, wearing seat belts, etc.
To each his own.

Not sure that not using synthetic oil fits in the same category as maintaining tire pressure or wearing seat belts for safety? For over 30K miles, I've replaced my conventional oil at the recommended intervals and I regularly flog the hell out of my car while wearing my seat belt with tires properly inflated.

If you're doing an engine rebuild, getting oil circulated before starting the engine is very important. But I'm not so sure that draining oil from the pan and putting in new oil really starves the bearings of oil enough to do any more damage than your daily cold engine start. If it makes you feel like you're doing something good for your engine, have at it.
 
Well said. Conventional oil, changed regularly, is every bit as effective as synthetic.
 
Do an oil change on a VW Jetta 2.5L or a Dodge Caliber and listen to the horrific noises those engine make when you just "fire them up" after an oil change. I intend to make this a regular practice on any e-throttle car I do an oil change on. Older cars may actually rev right up, so try this before you try to do it during an oil change to see what happens.

+1 on the conventional oil... but if you truly hammer on it, or if the car is modified beyond the capacity of the oil cooling system and regularly overheats the oil, conventional oil will break down faster and and result in more engine wear. Most of us don't race the 24 hours of Lemans on a daily basis though. I spent too much on this car to cheap out on the oil though... so I just spend the extra $10 for the synthetic. I run 5w40 rotella syn.
 
Do an oil change on a VW Jetta 2.5L or a Dodge Caliber and listen to the horrific noises those engine make when you just "fire them up" after an oil change. I intend to make this a regular practice on any e-throttle car I do an oil change on.

Not trying to threadjack here, just a quick question. My mom has a Caliber SRT-4, what should I properly do then after changing the oil? I know you have to reset the trip computer and all, but if firing right up is so bad, help me out. Ive only done 1 change on it, the 2nd one is coming up in about a week or so.
 

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