No transmission maintenance interval recommended in owner's manual?

[Ladd]

Isn't the Mazda fluid dino and Ravenol synthetic? I thought one shouldn't mix the two together ...

 

[Lazy2.5]

Isn't the Mazda fluid dino and Ravenol synthetic? I thought one shouldn't mix the two together ...

It doesn't matter. Just make sure the fluid level is accurate.

Ps. At your mileage, your fluid is still clean and not a concern.

 

[Ladd]

Ps. At your mileage, your fluid is still clean and not a concern.

As I had hoped. Just thinking ahead.

 

[TheMAN]

Some might say it is, I would greatly advise against it, no such thing as good enough in my book. Cars are expensive. All you need really is a dongle to plug into your OBD2 port and a scan program on you phone, might cost you under $40. And I wouldn't use the Ravenol to mix with what's in there, though I know it's very good brand name oil (used it in my engine). If you are going to just match what comes out, make sure it's cold before you measure it. ATF expands when warmed up.

ravenol is still ATF-FZ, even though it's not "mazda approved"... it is made to made and exceed those specs and is not a "one size fits all" fluid, unlike the castrol multi, valvoline maxlife, etc... it's still blue (a darker shade), so it won't ever cause warranty concerns

there's nothing wrong with mixing synthetic with dino or semi-synthetic, you just won't get the full benefits out of it lol

 

[TheMAN]

Isn't the Mazda fluid dino and Ravenol synthetic? I thought one shouldn't mix the two together ...

mazda is mostly dino and about 10% synthetic... I don't know if that makes it a semi-synthetic, but all indications so far is that this fluid loses its signature blue color quickly and turns gray by 30k miles, and pretty dark after 50k miles.... plenty of plebs out there who never change the fluid and the trans still works fine well past 100k miles... I've heard stories of ones with 200k+ with still the original fluid and still "works fine", which is scary... but it says a lot about how much more reliable mazdas are compared to nissans lol

 

[Ivan Drago]

When I asked my dealer about a transmission fluid change, they told me the interval was over 100k. I got a price anyway, which was insanely high (600 or so), and went elsewhere as they didn't seem to want to do it. The indie shop was about 250. I had mine done at 30k. What my dealer said invalidates what your dealer told you. If it were a warranty issue, it would be in the manual. I need to have my rear diff fluid changed as well.

I was quoted $349 for transmission fluid change on my CX-9 (I’m in TX). Approaching 65k miles and thinking about doing it. The price for CX-5 shouldn’t be much different.

 

[Lazy2.5]

I was quoted $349 for transmission fluid change on my CX-9 (I’m in TX). Approaching 65k miles and thinking about doing it. The price for CX-5 shouldn’t be much different.

To change just the fluid? I remember paying $290 or $300 (CAD...) to Change the filter and fluid back in 2020 or 2021. Ontario.

$350 us for just the fluid sounds like a robbery

 

[Ivan Drago]

To change just the fluid? I remember paying $290 or $300 (CAD...) to Change the filter and fluid back in 2020 or 2021. Ontario.

$350 us for just the fluid sounds like a robbery

Back in 2021?? The prices went up like 30-50% in the last 3-5 years. On everything.

 

[wlong01]

I was quoted $349 for transmission fluid change on my CX-9 (I’m in TX). Approaching 65k miles and thinking about doing it. The price for CX-5 shouldn’t be much different.

See my post #9. If it's just a drain/fill then you're getting ripped. If they drop the pan, replace the filter, clean the pan then that's not a bad price.

 

[theblooms]

My dealer did a drain/fill for $120.

That's actually not horrific. 3 quarts of fluid at $15 each is $45, so he's only charging you $75 for labor. Not a rip off at all.

 

[madar]

What is wrong with Ravenol FZ? Same thing. Use whichever.

Nothing, I just prefer not to mix brands if you're not doing a complete change with all the fluid, personal choice. Ravenol is an excellent choice. What, in your opinion is wrong with the Mazda fluid? It's a very high quality fluid, and has taken quite a few CX5s past the 200k mile mark.

 

[Lazy2.5]

See my post #9. If it's just a drain/fill then you're getting ripped. If they drop the pan, replace the filter, clean the pan then that's not a bad price.

@Ivan Drago now assuming your vehicle takes 4 quarts, $60, this mechanic who quoted you needs almost $300 to drain some fluid, fill some fluid, then check the level?

 

[madar]

Back in 2021?? The prices went up like 30-50% in the last 3-5 years. On everything.

People forget that, they also don't figure in average labor rate increases which are anywhere from $140 to $175 per hour these days, so a few hours work can cost you up to $350 easily not including parts. Just look at the prices dealers want for brakes these days as compared to only a few years ago.

 

[wlong01]

That's actually not horrific. 3 quarts of fluid at $15 each is $45, so he's only charging you $75 for labor. Not a rip off at all.

Didn't say mine was a rip off - was referring to the post where the dealer wanted $349.

 

[sm1ke]

Is my assumption that bringing the transmission up to temp, then doing a drain and refill (using Ravenol ATF FZ) with the amount of fluid that comes out, is MOST LIKELY good enough?

Just adding my experience with my own car. I don't have a scan tool either, so what I did was get the fluid circulating and up to temp. Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a clean container for about 15 mins. Then I left the fluid to cool down to ambient temp, with the new fluid nearby. I planned ahead for this and allowed the fluid to sit for like 2 hours so that they would both be at the same temp. After the old fluid had cooled to ambient temps, I marked the level on the container, dumped the old fluid, then poured new fluid up to the marked level. Pour that back into the transmission.

The problem with this method, aside from the long amount of time it takes, is that it doesn't account for the potential problem of having an underfilled transmission from the factory, which has been reported by quite a few other owners who have performed this service themselves. So, with that in mind, if you do it this way, it's best add a final step to warm up the fluid and get it circulating, then park the car and check the level while the car is idling, using the transmission dipstick. Top up as necessary.

 

[a69mach1377]

..., and check the level using the transmission dipstick. Top up as necessary.

If there is a dipstick, then problem solved...didn't know we had one?

 

[madar]

Good discussion here on changing ATF, pay attention to sinistriel@ comments.

ATF...Change or not?

 

[sinistriel@]

Just adding my experience with my own car. I don't have a scan tool either, so what I did was get the fluid circulating and up to temp. Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a clean container for about 15 mins. Then I left the fluid to cool down to ambient temp, with the new fluid nearby. I planned ahead for this and allowed the fluid to sit for like 2 hours so that they would both be at the same temp. After the old fluid had cooled to ambient temps, I marked the level on the container, dumped the old fluid, then poured new fluid up to the marked level. Pour that back into the transmission.

The problem with this method, aside from the long amount of time it takes, is that it doesn't account for the potential problem of having an underfilled transmission from the factory, which has been reported by quite a few other owners who have performed this service themselves. So, with that in mind, if you do it this way, it's best add a final step to warm up the fluid and get it circulating, then park the car, turn it off, and check the level using the transmission dipstick. Top up as necessary.

To check the correct level the engine needs to be running or you will not have the correct fluid level, leaving it dangerously underfilled or overfilled.

 

[sm1ke]

If there is a dipstick, then problem solved...didn't know we had one?

There is a dipstick, but it can be hard to access. The hole for the dipstick is also the fill hole, but because of the location, you'd need a very long funnel or two to pour the ATF without spilling it everywhere.

 

[sm1ke]

To check the correct level the engine needs to be running or you will not have the correct fluid level, leaving it dangerously underfilled or overfilled.

Thanks for the correction, I edited my post above.