DiscreetSpeed
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- 03 MSP
how much did it cost to get it painted?
New Gauges Installed! What the???
- Thread starter FunSpeed
- Start date
Even though gauges will always look wicked, it's also a good idea to just get like a turbo timer that also gives A/F ratio so that you can put a EMP gauge in the A pillar instead of the A/F gauge.....also note that ebc's will make boost gauges redundant (unless u don't trust the ebc). IMO.
emp=? electromagnetic pulse? exhaust manifold pyrometer? you mean an egt gauge? i personally wouldn't trust an ebc for my boost gauge, but that's just me and i don't have a ton of faith in a lot of electronics. i would use the 2 to check eachother, as i have heard of significant differences at times when people compare the two.
To have the A pillar painted was like $20 and only took the better part of the morning to complete. I am very pleased with the way it turned out.
The guys at the speed shop told me yesterday that a Boost Controller would be a very good idea and that I would benefit from it greatly. I agree, I just do not want to run at high psi and destroy the engine. That would suck!! What do you all think about running at or around 9 psi with the stock engine?? Will any damage occur?
Another quick question if I may. Do they make Boost Controllers with a turbo timer included, or are these two different things all together? I have read that a timer is good to get as well. Like many of you, I do not have money growing off trees. I want to get the most important/beneficial stuff first and wait on everything else. Should I get a turbo timer or boost controller and why???
The guys at the speed shop told me yesterday that a Boost Controller would be a very good idea and that I would benefit from it greatly. I agree, I just do not want to run at high psi and destroy the engine. That would suck!! What do you all think about running at or around 9 psi with the stock engine?? Will any damage occur?
Another quick question if I may. Do they make Boost Controllers with a turbo timer included, or are these two different things all together? I have read that a timer is good to get as well. Like many of you, I do not have money growing off trees. I want to get the most important/beneficial stuff first and wait on everything else. Should I get a turbo timer or boost controller and why???
get an mbc and a timer for less than what it will cost for just an ebc. turbo timers aren't necessary and won't increase performance at all, and you can have the "manual" turbo timer by just driving your car easy for the last few minutes before parking it, and then letting it idle for ~30 secs. oh yea, and install everything yourself so you have more of your money that doesn't grow off trees 
jred321 said:get an mbc and a timer for less than what it will cost for just an ebc. turbo timers aren't necessary and won't increase performance at all, and you can have the "manual" turbo timer by just driving your car easy for the last few minutes before parking it, and then letting it idle for ~30 secs. oh yea, and install everything yourself so you have more of your money that doesn't grow off trees
Amen brother.
jred321 makes a good point. I personally will buy a turbo timer because I wont always want to sit in the car for an extra 30 seconds (or 2 minutes if i was really hauling ass). But most turbo timers (for example Apexi) will also give you A/F ratio, O2 sensor readings and even battery voltage. Many ppl argue that these are unnecessary but I personally just like to know all the parametrers under my hood.
By emp (exhaust manifold pressure) I meant the same thing as EGT (exhaust gas temperature)....the same thing since PV = nRT. An EGT IMO is definitely a must have. An EGT gauge is an alternate way of determining your air/fuel ratio. Unlike air/fuel ratio gauges, which read out the value of the stock oxygen sensor, the EGT gauge measures exhaust gas temperature to determine if your car is running lean or rich. A high temperature implies a too-lean mixture, which can damage your engine.
With regards to an ebc, many ppl will want to have a boost gauge just as confirmation that the ebc is working properly. Might not be necessary but it's certainly not a bad idea.
In terms of how much boost you can run on the car, I'd say don't turn up the boost until backpressure is reduced as much as possible (ie. get a turbo back exhaust) and also get a FMIC because on a hot day the small stock IC will probably heat soak quite easily. An intake would be nice too. With just these I'd say u can safely run up to 12psi.
By emp (exhaust manifold pressure) I meant the same thing as EGT (exhaust gas temperature)....the same thing since PV = nRT. An EGT IMO is definitely a must have. An EGT gauge is an alternate way of determining your air/fuel ratio. Unlike air/fuel ratio gauges, which read out the value of the stock oxygen sensor, the EGT gauge measures exhaust gas temperature to determine if your car is running lean or rich. A high temperature implies a too-lean mixture, which can damage your engine.
With regards to an ebc, many ppl will want to have a boost gauge just as confirmation that the ebc is working properly. Might not be necessary but it's certainly not a bad idea.
In terms of how much boost you can run on the car, I'd say don't turn up the boost until backpressure is reduced as much as possible (ie. get a turbo back exhaust) and also get a FMIC because on a hot day the small stock IC will probably heat soak quite easily. An intake would be nice too. With just these I'd say u can safely run up to 12psi.
Thanks a lot for the info. guys! I do appreciate it. I know I want to get the exhaust done, possibly GReddy Evo. I have an intake on order, should be here in the next couple of days. I was also checking out Spool's FMIC and I like!! 
I think I will contiune doing research and probably get the Boost Controller and just wait the 30 secs. or so to let the tubro cool down manually. I can tolerate that. Thanks again!!
I think I will contiune doing research and probably get the Boost Controller and just wait the 30 secs. or so to let the tubro cool down manually. I can tolerate that. Thanks again!!I-Am-Chris
Member
Larone said:
Oh not this Again. We already covered the issue of an EGT Gauge used to determine your a/F. Yes it will work but high EGT's doesnt nes. mean you r running lean it could be a number of things. All A/F gauges bounce like that. The only way around that is a Wideband or the greddy unit which r alot more accurate
cars make more power when they run leaner.
thats why our cars stumble so bad, they run way too rich.
Now obviously there is a breaking point you dont want to cross, or over time damage will occur if you just run too lean all the time.
High EGT's could indicate too lean, or timing advance.
the best way to tune the car, is with a wideband and a dyno, and a fuel computer, standalone, or whatnot...
now you can do street tuning with just a fuel computer, but you wont make the most, or it wont be safe.
thats why our cars stumble so bad, they run way too rich.
Now obviously there is a breaking point you dont want to cross, or over time damage will occur if you just run too lean all the time.
High EGT's could indicate too lean, or timing advance.
the best way to tune the car, is with a wideband and a dyno, and a fuel computer, standalone, or whatnot...
now you can do street tuning with just a fuel computer, but you wont make the most, or it wont be safe.
I-Am-Chris
Member
correct but I understand what you are saying. Taht does show you r running lean. And yes A wideband would be the best way to go.
