If it's really an added 10% to get dynojet numbers, that's fairly impressive for the 'lowly' 1.8!On a dynojet my 5 put out 110 whp and 116 wtq.
...with an MP3 ECU.
New FSP build
- Thread starter Jas00x
- Start date
...with an MP3 ECU.
my point exactly.
gawd thaym it! Reading totally owns me. Plus...it's after midnight. I can't be held accountable for my actions or my posts lol. Thanks for clearing that up lol
Dude, don't do the 2.0 swap!!! Build up a 1.8! I am more than confident that you could get > 200 whp from that motor.
If you do the swap, I'll buy your 1.8.
Sweet car though man, makes me want to break out the credit card and head over to aMaff's and get some work done on my car (essentially identical to how yours started out)
If you do the swap, I'll buy your 1.8.
Sweet car though man, makes me want to break out the credit card and head over to aMaff's and get some work done on my car (essentially identical to how yours started out)
Now add 20 more HP and 25 more torques
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112010
The last dyno of the FSP 2.0L. Basically, 125 whp/125wtq , but all on a Mustang dyno. Easily over 130whp on a dynojet.
Also heard a little rumor...
Guess which Nationals trophy winning Civic has decided not to run 275's next year. Looks like we only have to suffer the wrath of the F(D)SP Focus on wide tires next season.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=112010
The last dyno of the FSP 2.0L. Basically, 125 whp/125wtq , but all on a Mustang dyno. Easily over 130whp on a dynojet.
Also heard a little rumor...
Guess which Nationals trophy winning Civic has decided not to run 275's next year. Looks like we only have to suffer the wrath of the F(D)SP Focus on wide tires next season.
You can't make that much HP and stay Street Prepared legal. No one makes a 1.8L LTW flywheel either.
I still have the stock ECU. I think with a programmable ECU I should be able to get a few more revs and still make better power.
For some background, here are the engine mods I have:
Cold Air intake
Bigger throttle body (AutoEXE)
AWR header
Corksport exhaust
no cats
I think the 2.0L will give me better power if I go for the swap.
I wish I knew for sure if the 2.0L and G-type tranny would be a direct swap. Most of what I have read sounds fairly confusing about ECU's and wiring harnesses. I just don't know for sure if the swap work.
AutoxES,
If you are interested in my current motor or transmission (f-type with an OPM LSD), I'll be looking for a good home for them if I succesfully complete the swap.
I don't see the Focus moving out of FSP for now; The Mueller ZX3 is a beast--I doubt there is a faster FSP car in a straight line...which is likely why it was such a good PRO car. It doest hurt that Lorin can drive the 275s off of it either.
(I spent some time driving a Focus ZTS as a moderately prepped STS car, and still frequent www.focaljet.com where there are some good threads on the buildup of that car).
I have petitioned the SEB, along with a few others, to have the ZX2 moved to FSP. If that happens, my 'new' R could easily be switched into FSP duty.
it might not provide more top-end power, but it should almost certainly give you a fatter midrange torque curve, which is really going to be more useful.
Vanimaniac
Member
Don't forget about the '68 BMW 2002 also on the 275's. Kevin ran the fastest raw time on day 2 (if that matters).
With more time and development, I'm looking forward to yall getting even faster though.
I think it'd be cool for the ZX2 S/R to go into FSP.
Van (letter has been sent to get our Corolla GT-S back into FSP as well)
Great thread! You have the ultra rare 99/00 dealer installed fog lights.
I wish I saw this thread sooner! I had the 1.8/2.0 clutch situation figured out long ago. The 1.8 and 2.0 use the same flywheel bolt pattern. You can use the 2.0 flywheel/pressure plate with a custom clutch disk pending the clutch fork engagement positions are the same for the 1.8 F series and G series 2.0 transmissions.
A local company here in southern ontario can build the custom disk for you. I Had them build me a custom pressure plate for my 1.8 the other week. I ordered a replacement clutch kit and got a 1.6 universal kit. It would fit and work fine but the pressure plate spec is 970lbs for the 1.6 and stock for the 1.8 is 1080lbs. I had them adjust it to 1200 ftlbs. The company is called Euro-Drive http://www.euro-drive.com/
If you swap to a 2.0 keep the 1.8 cams if you don't plan on the J spec cams. Also I have done some induction mods to my 1.8 including port matching the intake to head transition, the transition between the upper and lower intake halves and I also half shafted the throttle body and ported the inlet of the throttle body. Considerable time was needed to align the upper and lower intakes so they could be port matched. These induction mods are untested as of yet as my car has been jackstand racing for over a year and a half now.
I wish I saw this thread sooner! I had the 1.8/2.0 clutch situation figured out long ago. The 1.8 and 2.0 use the same flywheel bolt pattern. You can use the 2.0 flywheel/pressure plate with a custom clutch disk pending the clutch fork engagement positions are the same for the 1.8 F series and G series 2.0 transmissions.
A local company here in southern ontario can build the custom disk for you. I Had them build me a custom pressure plate for my 1.8 the other week. I ordered a replacement clutch kit and got a 1.6 universal kit. It would fit and work fine but the pressure plate spec is 970lbs for the 1.6 and stock for the 1.8 is 1080lbs. I had them adjust it to 1200 ftlbs. The company is called Euro-Drive http://www.euro-drive.com/
If you swap to a 2.0 keep the 1.8 cams if you don't plan on the J spec cams. Also I have done some induction mods to my 1.8 including port matching the intake to head transition, the transition between the upper and lower intake halves and I also half shafted the throttle body and ported the inlet of the throttle body. Considerable time was needed to align the upper and lower intakes so they could be port matched. These induction mods are untested as of yet as my car has been jackstand racing for over a year and a half now.
Got the Microtech in and running. Tuning is hard work. Spent about 3 hours on the Dyno today. No real power gains yet (maybe 2 hp). I'm really just in the process of learning how to work the Microtech and have the car run reliably. The guy running the Dyno hadn't worked a Microtech before (he's got a miata with a Haltech), so it was a bit of a learning experience for him too.
I have about 10 or 12 dyno runs and datalogs to look over and try to figure out the next steps.
As a side note, I bought some longer ARP wheel studs, but it looks like I need to remove the hub to get the new studs in (atleast on the back wheels). Anyways, looks like a PITA. Any tips on how to do this? I can't seem to find the online repair manual anymore.
I have about 10 or 12 dyno runs and datalogs to look over and try to figure out the next steps.
As a side note, I bought some longer ARP wheel studs, but it looks like I need to remove the hub to get the new studs in (atleast on the back wheels). Anyways, looks like a PITA. Any tips on how to do this? I can't seem to find the online repair manual anymore.
You're supposed to press the hub and bearing assembly out and then swap the studs. On the Miata, I used a grinder to clearance the knuckle just enough to wedge the studs out (as opposed to pressing the hub out). I'm not really sure what the rear hub assy looks like on the Protege so that trick may not cut it for you.
Here's a quick update.
Been down a while.
I had the cylinder head out for the old port-match and rebuild. Got that back and installed.
Installed some aluminum pullies.
Bought a Lightweight flywheel that SR Motorsports said would fit my car. After getting the stock FW off, I find that the new FW (a 1.6L Miata Fidenza) has the wrong bolt pattern- although the clutch and pressure plate fit perfectly. SO needless to say, I'm a little frustrated today.
I'm thinking about having the miata flywheel machined so that the bolt pattern and seal match, but need to start looking for a machine shop.
If I could find a G-type tranny with a good LSD for cheap, I think I'd like to get that on there so I can finally get a lightweight flywheel on the car.
My other project I am working on is the ITB setup. I have a ITB set from a Toyota 4AGE, and my brother made me an adapter so that I can bolt it up to the Protege head. The TPS sensor will need a little wiring work, but other than that, I think I can get everything to hook up. I haven't test fit it all yet (been working on the flywheel stuff lately), but it looks like it will fit OK. Should be cool if I can get it working.
Been down a while.
I had the cylinder head out for the old port-match and rebuild. Got that back and installed.
Installed some aluminum pullies.
Bought a Lightweight flywheel that SR Motorsports said would fit my car. After getting the stock FW off, I find that the new FW (a 1.6L Miata Fidenza) has the wrong bolt pattern- although the clutch and pressure plate fit perfectly. SO needless to say, I'm a little frustrated today.
I'm thinking about having the miata flywheel machined so that the bolt pattern and seal match, but need to start looking for a machine shop.
If I could find a G-type tranny with a good LSD for cheap, I think I'd like to get that on there so I can finally get a lightweight flywheel on the car.
My other project I am working on is the ITB setup. I have a ITB set from a Toyota 4AGE, and my brother made me an adapter so that I can bolt it up to the Protege head. The TPS sensor will need a little wiring work, but other than that, I think I can get everything to hook up. I haven't test fit it all yet (been working on the flywheel stuff lately), but it looks like it will fit OK. Should be cool if I can get it working.
If I get the ITB's working, I'll probably just throw away that expensive AutoEXE Throttle Body. I'll let you guys know when its up for sale 
Still have the OPM LSD, and it seems to be workin' just fine. The differentials from the F-type to the G-type don't really swap as far as I know. So if I get a G-Type, I'd have to get a new LSD too.
Still have the OPM LSD, and it seems to be workin' just fine. The differentials from the F-type to the G-type don't really swap as far as I know. So if I get a G-Type, I'd have to get a new LSD too.
