New BC Suspension Install
- Thread starter Rogue
- Start date
discount tire direct. You need to know the center bore of the wheel, they'll know the center bore of the wheel
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
the MAP (minimum advertised price) on my site is what i am required to publicly list them for. getting a better price would have to be handled privately, if that makes any sense.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
pm him is what hes sayin lol
but i have a question about the awr sway bar, does anybody have any pics of the bar on soft and the bar on the hard settings?
i installed mine and idk what is what lol
but i have a question about the awr sway bar, does anybody have any pics of the bar on soft and the bar on the hard settings?
i installed mine and idk what is what lol
yes, I have them as well. I just installed them a few weeks ago.
I'm experiencing everything you have stated so far. Super easy install. I mean really, can it be any easier? lol
I measured everything before the install, and everything came out pretty even. I will raise the front as its a little low for me. The rear is fine. I need to go back and get a better alignment after I raise it up a bit. The 1st alignment I had was ok, but I need to fine tune it for my driving style.
Camber was @ -1.9* front with about 1/16 toe in.
Before I installed the BC's, I had 0 toe all around. I'm going back to this setting. The car feels much better to me with 0 toe.
As you stated, the ride is stiff but not bone jarring. My Tokico/Espelir set up felt more harsh than this.
Also, I too 'am looking for that lift throttle over steer that I once had with the traditional strut set up. When I 1st installed them, I noticed a very pronounced push when turning hard. Since I've had an alignment, its much better but I still need to do some adjusting. I will be playing with air pressures, alignment, and damper settings to find out what works best for me.
Funny thing I did notice. It seems with my car, the stiffer I go in the rear, the more body roll I get. Weird. I think some of it is the front Racing Beat sway bar. I really need to re-install the stock P5 bar.
Anyway, I appreciate your informative review and look forward to applying some of your experience to my new set up.
So, on to some pics...
I'm experiencing everything you have stated so far. Super easy install. I mean really, can it be any easier? lol
I measured everything before the install, and everything came out pretty even. I will raise the front as its a little low for me. The rear is fine. I need to go back and get a better alignment after I raise it up a bit. The 1st alignment I had was ok, but I need to fine tune it for my driving style.
Camber was @ -1.9* front with about 1/16 toe in.
Before I installed the BC's, I had 0 toe all around. I'm going back to this setting. The car feels much better to me with 0 toe.
As you stated, the ride is stiff but not bone jarring. My Tokico/Espelir set up felt more harsh than this.
Also, I too 'am looking for that lift throttle over steer that I once had with the traditional strut set up. When I 1st installed them, I noticed a very pronounced push when turning hard. Since I've had an alignment, its much better but I still need to do some adjusting. I will be playing with air pressures, alignment, and damper settings to find out what works best for me.
Funny thing I did notice. It seems with my car, the stiffer I go in the rear, the more body roll I get. Weird. I think some of it is the front Racing Beat sway bar. I really need to re-install the stock P5 bar.
Anyway, I appreciate your informative review and look forward to applying some of your experience to my new set up.
So, on to some pics...
The coilovers will "break-in" after about 100 miles or so to allow the shocks ring seals to "seat". So the shocks will work much more effectively at controlling the springs and make the ride much better.
Also, you can move one set of the allen bolts that hold the camber plate to the top plate in the fronts to allow greater camber adjustment.
Also, you can move one set of the allen bolts that hold the camber plate to the top plate in the fronts to allow greater camber adjustment.
I would definitely suggest putting the P5 stock front swaybar back in. That'll help with the front-end push. What rear swaybar are you running? As far as alignment, I'm running 1/8th toe OUT in the front and 0 toe in the rear. The shop I go to was able to get -1.5* camber in the rear. I'll have them try to get more today. I'm thinking -2.9* in the front this time around. I'm still losing camber in the corners.
BTW, what endlinks are you using in the front? They look stout!
BTW, what endlinks are you using in the front? They look stout!
Thanks!
sorry..I have a buyer...but if it falls through, I'll let you know.
yea, as soon as I can find someone to help with the front bar, its going back in. lol
I have an MSP rear bar with custom made bushing brackets and energy bushings. I also have a GT Spec rear strut bar and lower v-brace kit, along with AWR trailing arms. I drove it 1st without the rear strut bar. Felt real nice. I reinstalled the rear strut bar, and its even better. Wasnt sure what effect the strut would have. Seems like much flatter cornering with it installed
hmm...toe out? Will this eat my tires up?
The front end links came with the kit and they are pretty beefy! They came loose on me once so I blue loctited them on, and no troubles. The rear end links are the dreaded AWR end links, which I never have a problem with like so many others.
Also, have you done or thought about corner balancing or is a good alignment job ok?
Thanks!
*sniffles* ... damn, I need some on the cheap so I can attempt an SCCA stock legal Koni insert project on my stock struts.
The AWR rears are fine because they aren't subjected to the load that the front ones are. Any toe setting other than 0 will eat through your tires.
