motor build?

I might be going down to there shop to go pick a oil pan soon for my speed.... Last time i was there they tried to sell a set of racing custom bilstein coilover without the spring and top hats for 2 grand.... I never laughed so hard i was like y'all serious 2 grand i gotta still buy part for them to use them pass

lol what a bunch of dickheads. Make sure you verify with them that the oil pans not gonna leak. than once it sarts leaking after you install it you can bring it back right away and make them fix it for free.
 
bump. Alternator is out of the car and I will be bringing it to the alternator shop to have it modified. i need to have a self exciting regulator installed since the haltech is wired as a full standalone and there is no longer a factory ecu.
 
finally got the alternator modified and its done now. Just have to get it back into the car installed and should be on my way to tuning in no time!
 
Alternator is in. Holding 14.7volts steady. Oil pan is off to get re welded since awr s*** the bed. After that break in tune!
 
Bump so the oil pan doesn't need to be welded it is getting decked today at precise engines.
 
So how close are you to getting this thing running? Glad to see that the 626 alternator worked out well, so with it being internally regulated at least you don't have to mess with the tables anymore. I can't imagine switching was very difficult, hopefully they didn't charge you an arm and a leg for it.
 
So how close are you to getting this thing running? Glad to see that the 626 alternator worked out well, so with it being internally regulated at least you don't have to mess with the tables anymore. I can't imagine switching was very difficult, hopefully they didn't charge you an arm and a leg for it.

Well i didn't actually end up using a 626 alternator i just got it set up the same. It's the stock protege alternator. Cost 300$ or about to get a custom regulator and rectifier installed. I'm very close to it running. The main thing holding me back untill now was the alternator. The last thing that I know of now is just getting the oil pan decked so it sits flush with the bearing support plate. Also they will be putting in some pipe dope with the bolts to decrease than chances of any further leaks. From there it will go on the dyno for a quick low boost break in tune. After that I'll be taking it and hopefully driving a bit before it snows.
 
Glad you're almost done with this build but why did you decide to use the stock Protege alternator and spend $300 on "custom" rectifier and regulator instead of just getting a simpler and proven to work alternator from a 626? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything I'm just wondering if this was the shops call or yours. The 626 would've just been an easier choice over all, plus if this alt ever goes bad you would need to get another one "custom" made.
 
Glad you're almost done with this build but why did you decide to use the stock Protege alternator and spend $300 on "custom" rectifier and regulator instead of just getting a simpler and proven to work alternator from a 626? I'm not trying to rain on your parade or anything I'm just wondering if this was the shops call or yours. The 626 would've just been an easier choice over all, plus if this alt ever goes bad you would need to get another one "custom" made.

ya i actually wanted to just get a 626 one from napa cuz maxx was saying the same thing but the shop felt strongly about bringing it to this shop and "doing it right the first time". Believe me Im kinda getting tired of having to mod everything its starting to get expensive. Now that this is done though Im basically ready to take the car anytime now I just hope they can get it on the dyno right away so I have even a week to test the car.
 
so the motor is all runing now. Shop says they think there is too many metal shavings in the pan and it is looking sketchy.So im gonna hope that the bearings dont get wrecked, Lesson learned though. Never do a motor build in canada way too manyshitty shops out there.Way better off to just buy a car from the factory.
 
so the doc b system is in and max psi is 65 psi? thought it would go to 80 but shop is saying it maxs out at 65
 
The DocB system is good for WAY more than 65psi. I've seen over 100psi on mine (had it adjusted a little too high) but it is capable. Have they turned the PRV adjustment in any further?

Another cause of low oil pressure could be excessive bearing clearance, which is quite possible given that they're finding metal shavings in the pan. There might be some tiny TINY flecks in the first oil change on a new engine as the parts wear together for the first time, but it should not be excessive.

What shop put the bottom end together again?
 
Dude, I'm sorry. If they feel like this build is sketchy then why the hell did they do sub-par work?
 
i just did some light reading to catch up on this thread from when i posted in it 2+ years ago. comedy.

glad to hear the build is going well, but man, the turbo? this is the true cautionary tale of the "penny wise, pound foolish" mentality -- embodied. everyone thinks theyve figured out a genius way to save $50 on a turbo and end up spending $200 to fix what went wrong in the process. hope the damage wasnt that bad, but man... just get the t3/t4!!
 
Everyone is just a **** about it lol. Dandw assembled the bottom end but I bought the built cylinder head from some guy on here a whole back funkybuddha. They think the head might have been assembled wrong. Who really knows. Engine is coming back out. Just got it towed away from Rcts 13g later and still not running. So back to the lambo shop it goes lol. Than back to the machine shop and I guess I'll go from there. If the bearing clearances were wrong I feel Dandw should cover the labour and even parts . But I guess I'll have to see once it's apart what they say Dandw builds race engines though I was under the impression they were a good machine shop one of the best in Calgary but what do I know
 
i just did some light reading to catch up on this thread from when i posted in it 2+ years ago. comedy.

glad to hear the build is going well, but man, the turbo? this is the true cautionary tale of the "penny wise, pound foolish" mentality -- embodied. everyone thinks theyve figured out a genius way to save $50 on a turbo and end up spending $200 to fix what went wrong in the process. hope the damage wasnt that bad, but man... just get the t3/t4!!

Lol ya the build is going great. I wish the turbo was my problem turbo is the least of my worries at this point. The turbo actually is setup all good now. Problem is it's all gonna have to come back off including oil system,fuel system etc to get the block back out . I'm not giving up though so I'll see how this goes. Hopefully the machine shop can get this right the second time.
 
The DocB system is good for WAY more than 65psi. I've seen over 100psi on mine (had it adjusted a little too high) but it is capable. Have they turned the PRV adjustment in any further?

Another cause of low oil pressure could be excessive bearing clearance, which is quite possible given that they're finding metal shavings in the pan. There might be some tiny TINY flecks in the first oil change on a new engine as the parts wear together for the first time, but it should not be excessive.

What shop put the bottom end together again?
Dandw and they claim the clearances were all too spec but I'm starting to have my doubts . I brought the oil filter to them and they cut it open. It was filled with shavings. It looked bad. If I would have thought there was a chance of being able to run it I would have. I don't think I would have made it too far though there was also shavings like half rings in the oil after changing the oil 3 times
 

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