So you dont think they can run at 75-100 watts? Why is that? The 12 inch sub is a OZ Vector. WHat do you think about those subs? He went out to my car and showed me how the custom box would be made and it looked like it would be constructed to get the most sound waves back to the passengers.
Mazdaspeed rear speakers
- Thread starter jdawg190
- Start date
Hey 1sty...eat your hat. I'd eat mine, too...I was going to agree with you...but I looked it up Supposedly the RMS is 125x4 + 300Wx1 at 4 ohms for that planet audio amp. Pretty sick. Even if they over rate it by 25%, that's still 90W and 225W. All at 4 ohms. I wonder if it can run the sub channel at 2 ohms seperately...then you could run more power. Doesn't seem like it based on their specs, though.
The look is very very clean, and the SN of 102dB is pretty good. I'd like to see Harmonic Distortion numbers and audition it before I pass any other judgements, but it does *look* sharp. Hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg!
The look is very very clean, and the SN of 102dB is pretty good. I'd like to see Harmonic Distortion numbers and audition it before I pass any other judgements, but it does *look* sharp. Hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg!
I think there stas are 100% BS unless they have an impedance matching circuit like JL.
Look at the bridged RMS stats. 250x2 right?
So its 125x4 at 4 ohms and 250x2 at 4 ohms :bs:
If you bridge an amp that doesn't have an impedance matching curcuit then you are going to increase power out of each channel from 4 ohms as when summed the channels each see 2 ohms of the total 4 ohm load. Thus you will always have a higher power output then just the channels added together. Theoreticly you will get 4 times the power of one channel on its own.
Now I am not aware of the planet audio amps haveing an impedance matching circuut like the JL amps.
Even a regulated power supply amp like my old Xtans will not yeild such a result. THey had 75x4 and bridged to 300x2 per spec, ofcoarse thermodynamics tells us thats not possible so either the amp is not ever pumping out 300x2 or it stated with more then 75x2.
SO there is BS here somewhere!!
Either the amp has a s*** load more then 250x2 or it doesn't produce 125x4.
Also keep in mind ther is absolutely nothing that regulates how any mobile audio product is rated at all.
NOw the other thing is why did the sales guy say it was only about 75x4, especialy if per spec it is really 125x4?
Look at the bridged RMS stats. 250x2 right?
So its 125x4 at 4 ohms and 250x2 at 4 ohms :bs:
If you bridge an amp that doesn't have an impedance matching curcuit then you are going to increase power out of each channel from 4 ohms as when summed the channels each see 2 ohms of the total 4 ohm load. Thus you will always have a higher power output then just the channels added together. Theoreticly you will get 4 times the power of one channel on its own.
Now I am not aware of the planet audio amps haveing an impedance matching circuut like the JL amps.
Even a regulated power supply amp like my old Xtans will not yeild such a result. THey had 75x4 and bridged to 300x2 per spec, ofcoarse thermodynamics tells us thats not possible so either the amp is not ever pumping out 300x2 or it stated with more then 75x2.
SO there is BS here somewhere!!
Either the amp has a s*** load more then 250x2 or it doesn't produce 125x4.
Also keep in mind ther is absolutely nothing that regulates how any mobile audio product is rated at all.
NOw the other thing is why did the sales guy say it was only about 75x4, especialy if per spec it is really 125x4?
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Just to toss my hat into the ring here, FIrst off, jd, I don't know if you're aware, but Servo and 1st are both VERY knowledgeable ppl to talk to on the matter. Stereo shop sales guys are NOT. a good friend of mine works at a local shop, and he has a wonderful elitest mentality from it, but really doesn't know much. If you want to talk to the RIGHT guy at a shop, talk to an installer. They're the ones who know what's REALLY up.
Now, I'm not as vastly knowledgeable as those guys, but asfor my $.02, avoid what the salesman's pushing, and do what was reccomended earlier in this thread. Use your factory amp to power your FRONT speakers. and those alone. Get a decent set of front speakers and forget about the rear. Leave them stock, or upgrade if you need to, but don't worry about putting any more power to them. In the door is a good place because they won't be able to throw much noise at the back of your head. If you have nice rear speakers and power going to them, it just muddies up your sound 'cause your imaging is thrown out of whack, and instead of hearing one source, your mind gets confused with a barrage of multidirectional soundwaves all hitting you at different times. I know according to my sig, I'm running a 4ch amp and I've got infinity's in my rears, but I've actually pulled the inifinity's and went back to stock, and run them from the deck at the moment. I MAY get some 5-1/4" midrange's (no tweeter) for fill-sound only that'll still be powered with my amp's gains WAY down.
For your sub, there's good, solid, known performers out there. Sure other stuff'll work, but alot of time you can end up spending alot of $ for crap. JL is about as solid and well-known as you can get. I used to awlays be a fan of kicker, but I now have an Elemental Designs and I've been Blown away by how incredible it sounds. servo put it right, you can have it sound where you really don't notice it's there until you turn it off and it's gone. Then of course if you turn it up, you can bump to your heart's content. I've got the 12a with about 1000w going to it, and it's way more than I'd ever bargained for, but thsoe K's are pretty awesome, and at that price?? can't go wrong. Let the shop build your box, though if it's what it sounds (in your wheelwell) it should fit nicely and take up little room. I'd love to get this done actually. As for type. a medium-small sealed is very well suited to SQ applications. Just go with the specs of the sub. if you don't care toomuch about the room, just make a simple plywood one like what ED reccomends. it doens't take a masters in carpentry to do, and you'll have the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Most of all, though. Listen to these guys, they SERIOUSLY know their stuff. I realize that salesguys are very convincing, but they're there to turn a $. These guys are here, on their free time because they enjoy car audio.
Now, I'm not as vastly knowledgeable as those guys, but asfor my $.02, avoid what the salesman's pushing, and do what was reccomended earlier in this thread. Use your factory amp to power your FRONT speakers. and those alone. Get a decent set of front speakers and forget about the rear. Leave them stock, or upgrade if you need to, but don't worry about putting any more power to them. In the door is a good place because they won't be able to throw much noise at the back of your head. If you have nice rear speakers and power going to them, it just muddies up your sound 'cause your imaging is thrown out of whack, and instead of hearing one source, your mind gets confused with a barrage of multidirectional soundwaves all hitting you at different times. I know according to my sig, I'm running a 4ch amp and I've got infinity's in my rears, but I've actually pulled the inifinity's and went back to stock, and run them from the deck at the moment. I MAY get some 5-1/4" midrange's (no tweeter) for fill-sound only that'll still be powered with my amp's gains WAY down.
For your sub, there's good, solid, known performers out there. Sure other stuff'll work, but alot of time you can end up spending alot of $ for crap. JL is about as solid and well-known as you can get. I used to awlays be a fan of kicker, but I now have an Elemental Designs and I've been Blown away by how incredible it sounds. servo put it right, you can have it sound where you really don't notice it's there until you turn it off and it's gone. Then of course if you turn it up, you can bump to your heart's content. I've got the 12a with about 1000w going to it, and it's way more than I'd ever bargained for, but thsoe K's are pretty awesome, and at that price?? can't go wrong. Let the shop build your box, though if it's what it sounds (in your wheelwell) it should fit nicely and take up little room. I'd love to get this done actually. As for type. a medium-small sealed is very well suited to SQ applications. Just go with the specs of the sub. if you don't care toomuch about the room, just make a simple plywood one like what ED reccomends. it doens't take a masters in carpentry to do, and you'll have the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Most of all, though. Listen to these guys, they SERIOUSLY know their stuff. I realize that salesguys are very convincing, but they're there to turn a $. These guys are here, on their free time because they enjoy car audio.
*blushing*
Thanks, Pos! You're getting all this, too, bud...so don't sell yourself short. About cost on that amp...how much does it cost? I didn't look at those other specs as closely as i should have, and 1st brings up a good point. My Eclipse 4 channel is 50x4 at 4 ohms or 120x2 @ 4ohms bridged. So you really should get more power.
It's also pretty sketchy that they don't give more info than those really basic numbers. JL preactically gives you circuit diagrams (not really...just kidding here). Well...they at least give you the amp's response curve graph, THD, damping, etc. Same thing with Eclipse. I'm not sure about the OZ sub. I haven't auditioned them at all. I know that Sounddomain carries them, and their prices aren't cheap, so it may not be crap.
Again...just make sure to listen to exactly what you'e going to get befoe you buy. And honestly...You really don't have to worry about those back speakers...but again. If you get a chance, find someone on here or sounddomain in your area that has just fronts amped like we suggested. That way you can really tell!
Thanks, Pos! You're getting all this, too, bud...so don't sell yourself short. About cost on that amp...how much does it cost? I didn't look at those other specs as closely as i should have, and 1st brings up a good point. My Eclipse 4 channel is 50x4 at 4 ohms or 120x2 @ 4ohms bridged. So you really should get more power.
It's also pretty sketchy that they don't give more info than those really basic numbers. JL preactically gives you circuit diagrams (not really...just kidding here). Well...they at least give you the amp's response curve graph, THD, damping, etc. Same thing with Eclipse. I'm not sure about the OZ sub. I haven't auditioned them at all. I know that Sounddomain carries them, and their prices aren't cheap, so it may not be crap.
Again...just make sure to listen to exactly what you'e going to get befoe you buy. And honestly...You really don't have to worry about those back speakers...but again. If you get a chance, find someone on here or sounddomain in your area that has just fronts amped like we suggested. That way you can really tell!
Sorry for the confusion about the amp but the amp he recommended was the planet audio TT5600. That has a rms of
4 x 50 and 1 x 200. The guy who i am working with is the guy who actually puts the stuff in the car and does lots of work with different cars. I did talk to him about using my current amp for the front 2 speakers and he didnt sound like he would reccommend it. The OZ Vector was $129. When i go back to him in a couple days i will tlak to him about amping the front speakers with the current amp. Just to get it straight, you guys recommend I amp the front speakers with my current amp? What rms will the speakers run at then?
Thanks for all the help
4 x 50 and 1 x 200. The guy who i am working with is the guy who actually puts the stuff in the car and does lots of work with different cars. I did talk to him about using my current amp for the front 2 speakers and he didnt sound like he would reccommend it. The OZ Vector was $129. When i go back to him in a couple days i will tlak to him about amping the front speakers with the current amp. Just to get it straight, you guys recommend I amp the front speakers with my current amp? What rms will the speakers run at then?
Thanks for all the help
I think it's about 40-45W RMS from the Kenwood. It's rated at 125W bridged, so that sounds about right. I don't believe that's it's a class D amp, but it only has an LPF, no HPFs. Of course...if you're using components the crossover box will do all that for, you I believe. Correct me if I'm wrong on that 1sty. Anywho...the Kenwood can power a set of comps, no prob, but I'm not sure if it's meant to play those freqs or not.
Just looked at kenwood's manuals and the S series can do full range just fine. So, yeah...it'll handle some decent components. Don't expect it to push Boston Pro's or Z's to their full potential though! hehe...
What components are you looking at / listening to? Some may not sound as good with that amount of power, that's why I ask. I'm not sure about OZ...they might be ok. Like I said, listen to it all together first and then you can really make a better decision.
Just looked at kenwood's manuals and the S series can do full range just fine. So, yeah...it'll handle some decent components. Don't expect it to push Boston Pro's or Z's to their full potential though! hehe...
What components are you looking at / listening to? Some may not sound as good with that amount of power, that's why I ask. I'm not sure about OZ...they might be ok. Like I said, listen to it all together first and then you can really make a better decision.
well for right now im not gonna buy new speakers because i dont have the money so im basically just looking to get the best sound quality out of the stock speakers. Sorry, but you guys are really confusing me right now. How about i just ask you this. With a budget of no more then $1000, what would you do to your car to get the overall best sound quality?
I actualy made a thread about just that, its called the $1000 audio challenge. Its a sticky in this section. Basicly with $1000 what would you do to get the best system you can and where would you get it.
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26312
http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26312
I think its overkill given the application here.
Some E series JLs would be a better way to go. Ifyou upgrade your front speakers to some serious componenets then maybe the JL.
Oh yeah and check this out.
Now JL sells prepackaged systems, everything but the deck:
http://www.jlaudio.com/The_Stuff_You_Want.html
Some E series JLs would be a better way to go. Ifyou upgrade your front speakers to some serious componenets then maybe the JL.
Oh yeah and check this out.
Now JL sells prepackaged systems, everything but the deck:
http://www.jlaudio.com/The_Stuff_You_Want.html
Oooo...nice. Would have been good to know they were coming out with that stuff a while ago. Would have been nice to know I was getting laid off, too...that way I wouldn't have spent so much on everything!
Those are some nice looking upgrade packages...and those pre-built boxes aren't terrible, methinks.
Those are some nice looking upgrade packages...and those pre-built boxes aren't terrible, methinks.
There are 4 tweeter stores in all of VA, just go to tweeter.com to find them. They carry JL, Alpine, Eclipse, Kicker, Boston, Pioneer, and Premier...
Also, check JL audio's website at jlaudio.com. They have a dealer locator and there's at least one place in Newport News. Maybe something even closer to you!
Most other stuff that you can buy at car audio places is OK, but not of the quality of JL or even Alpine. The only other speakers that I would look into are infinity. But amps, I wouldn't settle for anything less than phoenix gold from a car audio shop (if you could find that). However...Circuit City in Newport News carries Alpine according to Alpine's dealer locator. And actually...the place that is a JL auth. dealer in Newport News also carries Alpine.
Seriously...check those out! Good luck!
Also, check JL audio's website at jlaudio.com. They have a dealer locator and there's at least one place in Newport News. Maybe something even closer to you!
Most other stuff that you can buy at car audio places is OK, but not of the quality of JL or even Alpine. The only other speakers that I would look into are infinity. But amps, I wouldn't settle for anything less than phoenix gold from a car audio shop (if you could find that). However...Circuit City in Newport News carries Alpine according to Alpine's dealer locator. And actually...the place that is a JL auth. dealer in Newport News also carries Alpine.
Seriously...check those out! Good luck!
