Mazdaspeed rear speakers
- Thread starter jdawg190
- Start date
No no...PG makes good stuff is all I'm saying. I'm not sure of the exact specs, but generally Eclipse and JL have the best SQ for bigger names. Actually, looking at their manual for the Tantrum, it looks like a good quality piece, but the S/N ratio is only listed as >100. JL and Eclipse will have S/N of 105 or greater. They also don't list THD in the PG manual, but elsewhere on the site list it as 1%...that's about 2 magnatudes of order more than the JL or Eclipse.
Take a listen to everything you can, though. You may find that you like the sound of the PG more. Good luck!
Take a listen to everything you can, though. You may find that you like the sound of the PG more. Good luck!
Actualy until recently pheonix was considered one of the best if not the best for SQ YOU COULD GET (AMP WISE)
You will notice most any install that comes out of Sound-In-Motion will tend to have the high line pheonix amps. Of coarse this was until last year when pheonix moved production over seas and camne out with the tantrum stuff.
Also I would include Nakamichi, alpine, xtant, and a host of others as a good amp for sQ.
You will notice most any install that comes out of Sound-In-Motion will tend to have the high line pheonix amps. Of coarse this was until last year when pheonix moved production over seas and camne out with the tantrum stuff.
Also I would include Nakamichi, alpine, xtant, and a host of others as a good amp for sQ.
I would have slapped Alpine in there, but their SNs aren't as impressive as Eclipse and JL. Of course, when you listen to them, it's a different story. They *do* sound very clean. Again...it's all in the ears. The only way to know what works for you is to listen. You could hear the same speakers through an Eclipse, JL, and Alpine and they sound COMPLETELY different.
There are those that claim that amps have no sound variance.
Richard Clark has a test to supposedly prove just that.
However it is realy a test of the actual signal amp circuit only and any variances there after are compensated for. Its that $10,000 amp challenge BS, where you have to pick which amp is which 30 times and you have to put up money to take the test. I forund it to be Total BS after reading the rules.
SO basicly the actualy amplifier portion of a car audio amp will sound the same regardless of its construction. Its every other peice that will taint the singal and that is where your more expensive amps come into play. They have alot more circuity to process sound without altering or distorting it..
Richard Clark has a test to supposedly prove just that.
However it is realy a test of the actual signal amp circuit only and any variances there after are compensated for. Its that $10,000 amp challenge BS, where you have to pick which amp is which 30 times and you have to put up money to take the test. I forund it to be Total BS after reading the rules.
SO basicly the actualy amplifier portion of a car audio amp will sound the same regardless of its construction. Its every other peice that will taint the singal and that is where your more expensive amps come into play. They have alot more circuity to process sound without altering or distorting it..
Exactly...it's like a guitar amp. 6L6 tubes should sound the same from power section to power section but they don't because the sound is altered by the circuitry. I mean...if you go into your showroom at tweeter and listen to that 4-chan eclipse on the Boston components (Rallys or Pros) versus a JL on those, the difference is audible....at least it was to me. 
Ok, what do you guys think about this. Im thinking about the Alpine MRV-F340 for the amp, which runs 2 x 140 and 1 x 400. THen for the sub either a Jl audio 12W3v2 or 10W3v2, which runs at 300. I know 2 x 140 might be a little too much for the stock speakers, but do you still think it will sound good and then later when i have more money i will put in really high quality speakers.
The other way i could go with the amp is the Alpine MRV-F450 which has a max power of 4 x 90 and 1 x 370. But you guys think its best to just let hte headunit power the rear speakers right? The only reason i ask that is cuz i would this have the front and rear speakers at the same power is that it will balance the sound.
The f340 puts out 60x2 @ 4 ohms and 200x1 @ 4 ohms RMS.
As for power the fronts and rears with the same power, it does not balance the sound. If the rears are in the doors even with 50W you won't balance anything. They're not really audible, and they are supposed to at onlly as minimal fill. And if they're in the rear deck then they move the soundstage farther to the back. You want your sounstage to be all up front, like in a movie theater. The Center channel in a 5.1 system does the bulk of the work, so too in a car audio system should your front speakers create the sound stage. If you want JL then the w3v2 is the way to go, but I would personally go with eD's Kx series. That's just me though...but it would cost you about 80-100$ less than the 3v2 I think.
60Wx2 is definitely too much for stock speakers (unless it's an msp...and then it's a little close).
As for power the fronts and rears with the same power, it does not balance the sound. If the rears are in the doors even with 50W you won't balance anything. They're not really audible, and they are supposed to at onlly as minimal fill. And if they're in the rear deck then they move the soundstage farther to the back. You want your sounstage to be all up front, like in a movie theater. The Center channel in a 5.1 system does the bulk of the work, so too in a car audio system should your front speakers create the sound stage. If you want JL then the w3v2 is the way to go, but I would personally go with eD's Kx series. That's just me though...but it would cost you about 80-100$ less than the 3v2 I think.
60Wx2 is definitely too much for stock speakers (unless it's an msp...and then it's a little close).
