Mazda2 de5fs Touge build

[Driplin]

List of mods:
1. HKS induction kit (Racing Suction：DEMIO)
2. HKS Silent High Power (silent Hi-Power：DEMIO)
3. Autoexe front strut bar (Increased Body Rigidity | AutoExe Mazda Tuning & Customization)
4. Endless MX72 Plus break pads (ENDLESS OFFICIAL WEB SITE)
5. K-sport street coilover (STREET |)
6. Camber bolts
7. Exedy stage 1 organic clutch (MT Sports - Stage 1 Organic | EXEDY Clutch Europe)

Wheel: Mazda wheel design 144. Size is 16" by 6.5" PCD 4x100

Tyers: running a square setup of 205/45/16
Fronts: Nankang NS2R
Rears: Falken ziex ze310

Relevant OEM performance extras:
1. Longer gear ratios (results in lower top speeds for each gear but faster acceleration)

2. Bigger front breaks
3. The OEM suspension was stiffer than normal spec

The reason I am creating this thread is to spread information regarding the de5fs, to find other enthusiast of this chasse and to hopefully learn more since gathering information about anything regarding the Mazda 2 is not easy.

I have owned my car for around 2 years and have covered around 20k km. Most of those km have been very hard driving on windy roads. The car has for the most part giving me 0 issue, what I have replaced due to breaking are top engine mounts (still had original one and I blew it) and suspension (had the front left strut leaking) which where both mostly a result of my heavy driving. The car currently sits at 100k km and even after my driving style it still burns not a single drop of oil.

Currently I am running the stock tune so around 111hp and I have yet to have any issues with the gearbox, and I don't go easy on it.

These are some questions I have about this chasse that i have not been able to find any info:
1. How much power can the stock transmission handle?
2. How much power can the car handle, from the little information I found someone said at 160 crank hp a connecting road breaks
3. Has anyone fit a fiesta st rear subframe on the DE, this is to have rear disc breaks
4. Has anyone ever put ITB's on the ZY-VE

I ask these questions just out of curiosity as I don't plan to push more power than it has as I don't see a point. In the future I would like to possible play around with the engine as just a passion project since it's such a unknown platform that it would be interesting, but currently I am just a collage student and spending so much money on a mazda 2 is stupid.

I absolutely love this car and it has exceeded my expectations countless times. It drives great and is extremely fun driving it on the limit. It was a great first car to learn all the basics of racing in but now I am looking for a car that can take me to the next step. I wont sell my mazda 2, I love it to much.

If you have a mazda 2 DE and drive it hard I would love to hear your opinion on it as sadly I have yet to meet a mazda 2 owner that is a driving enthusiast.

Any questions regarding the DE you can say here and I will try to reply as I have done a large amount of research on everything regarding this chasse.

 

[drivingF00L]

The three door DE is so nice looking; it's a shame we never saw these in the US.

The different transmission ratios are interesting. Your 5-speed gearing matches the US version (we only got the 1.5 engine), only the final drive ratio is different. That would be a sweet upgrade if I ever opened up the transmission to just swap the final drive to the 4.1.

I don't think rear disc upgrade is worthwhile. I know drums aren't sexy, but there's not a ton of weight overall, and being front drive, more of the weight is up front anyway. I've read of folks running in B-spec racing class, and I don't remember anyone complaining about being limited by stock rear braking power. Plenty of pad upgrades available for the front, and as with any car, make sure you have fresh, quality brake fluid.

 

[misnblu]

Subscribed.
Good to see legit enthusiasm on a little hot hatch that may not have a lot of power but man are they fun to try to drive fast.

Good luck with the project.
Look forward to seeing more.

 

[drivingF00L]

I should have read more closely before my previous reply, as it looks like you've already made upgrades to the front braking with a higher performance pad compound. You mention that yours came with bigger front brakes; how big are the rotors? The US versions have a 258mm front rotor.

The Fiesta ST has a different hub drilling, it's not 4x100. You'd have to do something to sort that out if you made the swap. I hear the ST rear beam is stiffer, so that could be a plus.

Have you added a rear sway bar or beam stiffener to your current setup?

 

[Lazy2.5]

if the vehicle has an open differential, changing it to an LSD would be worthwhile.

 

[Driplin]

I should have read more closely before my previous reply, as it looks like you've already made upgrades to the front braking with a higher performance pad compound. You mention that yours came with bigger front brakes; how big are the rotors? The US versions have a 258mm front rotor.

The Fiesta ST has a different hub drilling, it's not 4x100. You'd have to do something to sort that out if you made the swap. I hear the ST rear beam is stiffer, so that could be a plus.

Have you added a rear sway bar or beam stiffener to your current setup?

Regarding my break rotor size it is 258mm, where I am from most are 1.3 and come with 239mm rotors. I have just ordered project μ rear breaks shoes from japan because I needed to buy replacement pads for the front so I got those aswell. I have heard a lot of good things about adding a sway bar on the back but at this state I am trying not to spend more money on the car because I already drive it really hard and it doesn't make sense to try and make it faster. Currently saving up for an Mrs (it's the 3rd gen mr2 in the US).

With the final drive I have it's very good, shifting at 6k rpm sets you at 4k rpm so you stay in the band of the variable value time and you stay in the shorter intake length path. That's one thing I forgot to mention, I don't know if it is on all models but with the intake manifold I have there is a servo that changes between a longer or shorter intake path to increase power or torque.

 

[Driplin]

if the vehicle has an open differential, changing it to an LSD would be worthwhile.

I know Cisco sell one for around 1000 euros but currently I don't see it making financial sense. I'm more looking at buying a better car so I can improve my driving skills.

 

[Driplin]

Subscribed.
Good to see legit enthusiasm on a little hot hatch that may not have a lot of power but man are they fun to try to drive fast.

Good luck with the project.
Look forward to seeing more.

Thanks for the support.

It was a great first car, learned all the techniques like trail breaking, left foot breaking, heel and toe and a bunch of other stuff.

My favourite part is that my car looks stock AF and since where I'm from they are all 1.3 and automatic no one knows the 1.5, so it even funnier when I pass some random on the street.

 

[Driplin]

Here are some more photos

 

[Driplin]

Bought these Sparco Cromodora wheels CD853 16 by 7j et40 for really cheap and now I am refurbishing them. I weighed a wheel which was 8.5kg, once I get the OEM wheels without a tire I will weight them as well. I am going to need to run a 4x100 to a 4x114.3 converter and see if i have issues with rubbing.

​

 

[Driplin]

Small update, currently the wheels are sanded and ready for pain, they have been for a while but I been really busy working on my thesis and I'm looking at getting them painted by a professional. On another note I have been looking to buy bucket seats for the car, if anyone has any fitment tips. Also thinking of maybe buying front and rear autoexe subframe braces since I can get them for quite cheap used from Japan. Anyone have them?

 

[OZCorolla_x]

WRT "I weighed a wheel which was 8.5kg, once I get the OEM wheels without a tire I will weight them as well."

15.3kg for 185/55 R15 Tyre on the OEM Standard Factory Steel Rims J15 x 6 J DOT 3 10 / 6 LR31

Tyre as Dunlop Sport at nominal 60% of residual tread.

Rob

 

[Driplin]

Got these project u rear drum break pads. When I have some time I will test them out and do a review on them to see if there are worth buying.

https://buyee.jp/item/jdirectitems/shopping/abmstore3_pmu-s413-srs-1008/category/43160?conversionType=service_page_search

 

[OZCorolla_x]

WRT "3. Has anyone fit a fiesta st rear subframe on the DE, this is to have rear disc breaks"

youtube.com/watch?v=mgzfZKUpAaE
A happy enough everyday Beater Box Commuter Driver
2020_04_24 200,000Miles MAZDA2 2011 Commuter Car Garry the CHAMP does 100Miles Every Day

"Intergalactic Jack Rabbit"..."weighs just 2300lbs full tank of petrol & Driver"

Sums it up...
3:38 "Ford Festiva Racing Suspension Fitted from the ST Version"

5:32 “This car has rear DRUM Brakes…you may think no Car Guy can like a car with DRUM Brakes in 2011….& yeah I wish it had all wheel disc brakes…BUT it doesn’t need it because it only weighs 2300lbs”

Rob

 

[Driplin]

So I have tested the new break shoes, for reference i still had the factor OEM break shoes with 104,000 km on. The OEM shoes where still perfectly functional I just wanted an upgrade.

Another note currently my rear tires are 2 year old, low thread falken ziex ze310. not old but very low thread.

I would say I have seen around 15% more stopping when using the break pedal, and the pedal itself feels more responsive. When doing normal slow stops like 20kmh to a complete stops I felt a massive difference. When doing these sort of normal load stops its a little "annoying/unconftrable" if you are someone who cares about that. This is because it doesn't do rolling with the breaks at very low speeds no. Personally I think its a very worth trade off.

Now for the fun part.
So I was messing around with learning more on how to do handbrake turns and at first I felt no difference. Well that's because turning off traction control keeps stability control on. After I yoinked that MF fuse out (fuse labeled DSC-P. DSC-V works as well but removes power steering. both also disable TC and ABS) it was a whole other story.

I haven't had that much fun with it in a while, the wheels lock up great even when not shifting the weight to the front. Sort of comparison between the old and new shoes, before I could keep the hand break up and dump it in first and second as well would not stop it, with the new ones when I went into second it lost a lot of power and I could not rev out. Then I also tried doing so Togue with DSC off and the handling is way better especial on hairpin moves.

I have yet to do a proper comparison in time reduced on my local route with DSC off but I feel like i can reduce 0.5 seconds from a time of 56.99. For reference a 2zz swapped Toyota MRS with a great driver behind the wheel does it in 53.49. Obviously don't go and remove you DSC because some dumbass told you to on a forum. I would not recommended it unless you really know how to drive it at 10/10.

That's my rant about the drum breaks done. On another small note, anyone know it putting on 7j 40mm offset + 20mm spacer will have fitment issues. Ideally I want a 15mm spacer but I cant find one with the right center lip. I calculated off my OEM wheels which are 6.5J 50mm offset and the poke outwards compared to the oem wheels is 36.3mm. I need a spacer since I need to convert PCD from 4x100 to 4x114.3

 

[Driplin]

Also 2k views on this thread for a slow ass mazda 2. Love the POS tho. Here are some photos.

Japan revive stickers and some temu slop stickers

Mazda 2 is just a 323 but the 3's fell of at the factory

professional way to measure fitment

Current state of my rear tires